Clean your outdoor unit on a day that’s at least 60 degrees F. That’s about the minimum temperature at which you can test your air conditioner to make sure it’s working. usually sits in an inconspicuous spot next to yourYou’ll see two copper tubes running to it, one bare and the other encased in a foam sleeve. If you have a heat pump, both tubes will be covered by foam sleeves. Your primary job here is to clean the condenser fins, which are fine metallic blades that surround the unit. get dirty because a central fan sucks air through them, pulling in dust, dead leaves, dead grass and the worst culprit— floating “cotton” from cottonwood trees and dandelions. The debris blocks the airflow and reduces the unit’s Always begin by shutting off the electrical power to theNormally you’ll find a shutoff nearby. It may be a switch in a box, a pull lever or a fuse block that you pull out (Photo 1). Look for the “on-off” markings.

Vacuum the fins clean with a soft brush (Photo 2); fragile and easily bent or crushed. On many units you’ll have to unscrew and lift off a metal box to get at them. owner’s manual for directions and lift off the box carefully to avoid bumping the fins. Occasionally you’ll find fins that haveYou can buy a special set of fin combs (from an appliance parts store) to straighten them. can be done with a blunt dinner knife (Photo 3). areas of fins are crushed, have a pro straighten them during a Then unscrew the fan to gain access to the interior of theYou can’t completely remove it because its wiring is connected to the unit. Depending on how much play the wires give you, you might need a helper to hold it while you vacuum debris from the inside. (Sometimes mice like to over-winter After you hose off the fins (Photo 5), check the fan motorMost newer motors have sealed bearings (ours did) and can’t be lubricated.

Check your owner’s manualIf you find ports, add five drops of electricac unit preventive maintenance motor oil (from hardware stores or appliance parts stores).ac unit 2 ton Don’t use penetrating oil or all-purpose oil. air handling unit connection details designed for long-term lubrication and can actually harm the If you have an old air conditioner, you might have a belt-driven compressor in the bottom of the unit. ports on this as well. The compressors on newer air conditioners are completely enclosed and won’t need lubrication.A traditional home comfort system has two parts: an indoor unit, such as a furnace or air handler, and an outdoor unit. An air conditioner is the outdoor unit that cools air and sends it to the indoor unit to be circulated through your home.

The indoor and outdoor units are designed to work together, and when the air conditioner is properly matched with a furnace or air handler, the result is maximum efficiency and extended system life. The air conditioning part of your "split system" includes a compressor, a fan, condenser coil, evaporator coil and a refrigerant. The system extracts heat from indoor air and transfers it outside, leaving the cooled indoor air to be recirculated. Air conditioning and cooling efficiency is measured using a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). A higher SEER signifies higher energy efficiency. The basic components of an air conditioning system: A Condensing Unit (the outdoor section) A matching indoor Air Handler or Gas Furnace with coil Ductwork to transfer the cooled air throughout the home Q: My air conditioning system isn't cooling very well. Should I replace it? A: You may wish to consider replacing your air conditioning system if it is old, inefficient or in need of repair.

Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as ten years ago. In addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce the efficiency of the system. Q: How expensive is central air conditioning? A: Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the type and condition of the ductwork installed and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner. PSE&G offers a complete range of systems and accessories available to meet your needs. Q: What should I look for in an air conditioning system? A: First, the unit should be properly sized to provide enough cooling for your home. PSE&G can provide a load calculation for your home if you aren't sure. Next, consider comfort issues in the home. New products can reduce uneven temperatures from room to room. If you have allergies, look for systems that filter your home's air as it circulates.

Finally, know your budget parameters and the efficiency of the system being proposed. Q: How long can I expect a new system to last? A: Industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 12-15 years (sea coast applications may be less). Q: What is involved in replacing an old system? A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, your installer should inspect the other items in your air conditioning system, such as: ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil. Need new central air conditioning? PSE&G will replace your old air conditioning system with quality York and Honeywell products. We offer an easy payment plan, with no money down and monthly payments right on your PSE&G bill. For a free replacement estimate Call 1-800-240-3609 or find out more on our Central Air Conditioning Replacement webpage.

A glossary of air conditioning terms Here are some terms that you might hear when doing research into your air conditioning system: Air Handler - The portion of the system that moves heated or cooled air throughout a home's ductwork. Balance Point - An outdoor temperature, usually between 30° F and 45° F, at which a heat pump's output exactly equals the heating needs of the home. Below the balance point, supplementary electric resistance heat is needed to maintain indoor comfort. Btu - British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water (about one pint) by one degree F. Evaporator Coil - The portion of a heat pump or central air conditioning system that is located in the home and functions as the heat transfer point for warming or cooling indoor air. Outdoor Coil/Condensing Unit - The portion of a heat pump or central air conditioning system that is located outside the home and functions as a heat transfer point for collecting heat from and dispelling heat to the outside air.