Stylish, Compact, Convenient, Comfortable Daikin's wall-mounted units are ideal for cooling or heating smaller zones such as stores, offices, and restaurants. The compact, stylish design lets the unit blend discreetly into any interior design, and airflow can be supplied in any of five different directions and easily programmed via remote control. New stylish flat panel design enhances any interior space Available in capacities from 7,500 Btu/h to 24,000 Btu/h Easy to clean front panel with a flat smooth surface that can be removed for additional cleaning Five different airflow distribution angles programmable by the optional wireless controller Airflow angle is automatically set as per the previous operation setting when restarting (initial setting: 10° for cooling and 70° for heating) Vertical auto-swing mechanism ensues efficient air distribution with louvers that automatically close when the unit is turned off Wide air discharge outlet distributes comfortable airflow throughout the entire space

Mold proof drain pan and air filter Condensate drain pipe can be installed on either the left or right side of the unit Optional condensate pump accessory available I've got an old AC unit (probably 13+ years old) that came with the house that I bought. This summer I noticed some water damage on the drywall in the basement, so I cut the damaged drywall away, and found that the pipe coming from my AC unit to my furnace had a bunch of condensation on it that would collect and leak out onto the drywall. It seems like the spot it's dripping from is the lowest point in the pipe (left and right of this point both bend up) How safe is it to try and bend this pipe (which I'm assuming has freon in it?) so that it's more level? Is there some other kind of insulation I can put on this to prevent the condensation. Right now its the standard foam tube that you wrap around. drywall air-conditioning pipe condensation Did the problem just start? Is the condensation on the pipe frozen?

If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant). If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional. Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from forming and causing damage. That insulation may have started to fail. If so, replacing it is an easy enough job. I reccomend you turn off the system for a little while so the coolant line can warm up. Pull off as much of the old insulation as you can and wipe it down to remove any leftover condensation. Then replace it with the tightest-fitting and highest R-value insulation you can find. When re-insulating, be sure to seal all of of the crevices. If the pipe insulation tubes have an open slit in the side, make sure you seal the slits with insulated tape. If any copper is exposed, it is a point for condensation to form. The coolant line should be completely covered from end to end. I reccomend that you don't bend the pipe.

The coolant pressure is somewhat higher than your generic water supply, and if you damage/crack the line, it won't be pretty. Sounds like the insulation around the coolant pipe needs to be sealed better (if air can't get to it, you won't have any condensation). installing a window ac unit in the wallSee this similar question: Corrosion on copper pipes due to insulation (with foam)average cost of ac unit I had the exact same thing happen. cheap split system acIn the attic rats had eaten away the rubber insulation. For some reason they love it. Water came through the ceiling into one of the bedrooms. An AC guy came out and said to replace the old insulation with new insulation from Lowes or Home Depot. Total cost of the insulation: $15.

Browse other questions tagged drywall air-conditioning pipe condensation or ask your own question.To control air flows, make sure the is continuous An air barrier helps control airflow both through and within the building enclosure. By controlling airflow, you also control moisture. If moist indoor air contacts a cold surface — for example, exterior sheathingMaterial, usually plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), but sometimes wooden boards, installed on the exterior of wall studs, rafters, or roof trusses; siding or roofing installed on the sheathing—sometimes over strapping to create a rainscreen. in cold weather — condensation can result. An air barrier prevents those cold surfaces from being connected with humid indoor air. Air has a maximum storage capacity for water vapor which depends on temperature. Warm air can store lots of moisture, while cold air can store very little. According to Straube, as the temperature falls from 90°F down to 20°F, the amount of moisture that can be stored in the air changes by a factor of ten.

“This is like a gas tank that shrinks as the temperature gets colder,” he says. “When it’s hot, you can store a lot in this tank, but when it’s cold you can’t store much at all. And if you were to have a large gas tank filled with gas and you shrunk it, eventually it would spill over. 1. Air Leaks Waste Energy 5. Humidity & Mold Leaky homes didn’t have condensation problems Older buildings rarely had condensation problems in cold weather because they were so well ventilated — meaning leaky. The relative humidity in an old home would rarely rise above 25%. As we have built tighter houses (and in some cases failed to provide mechanical ventilation), the indoor relative humidity has gone up. In a heated, tight, unventilated house, the amount of moisture in the air and the amount of condensation that can occur are dramatically different than in an old leaky house. Condensation can occur wherever water vapor can find a cold spot — on roof or wall sheathing, on the inside faces of the windows, and inside the walls.

Let's say it’s 40°F outside and the outdoor relative humidity is 50%. If you allow that outdoor air to enter a building and heat it up to 70°F, the amount of moisture in the air stays exactly the same, but the “tank” gets bigger because the storage capacity of the air increases with the temperature. As a result, the relative humidity initially drops. Then, as moisture is added to the air, the relative humidity rises, and the absolute moisture content rises as well. How do you add moisture to the air? You breathe, sweat, boil water for spaghetti, take hot showers, grow houseplants — and all of those activities generate moisture. When does indoor humidity become a problem? Let’s say that air leaks out of a house through holes in the enclosure. As it reaches surfaces colder than 52°F or 53°F, the air will cool. Once it reaches its full capacity to store moisture, condensation occurs. Questions and Answers About Air Barriers Airtight Wall and Roof Sheathing

One Air Barrier or Two? Pinpointing Leaks With a Fog Machine How to Use the Psychrometric Chart Rating Windows for Condensation Resistance All About Wall Rot If the temperature of the outdoor air is around 30°F, the indoor air will drop all of the moisture that it gained on the way out, dumping it on the cold sheathing surface. That’s a typical example of the air leakage condensation cycle. Since condensation in walls can cause puddles — and in extreme cases, rot the framing — condensation is something you want to avoid. Installing an air barrier is one way to help prevent condensation. Air conditioning can also create condensing surfaces The same phenomenon can happen in reverse in the summertime. Let’s say the outdoor air is 85°F and the relative humidity is 75%. When outdoor air leaking inward contacts a surface below about 76°F, the moisture in the air will condense. So if you have an exhaust fan in your home, the air leaking in may cause condensation on the air-conditioned surfaces — for example, on the back side of vinylCommon term for polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

In chemistry, vinyl refers to a carbon-and-hydrogen group (H2C=CH–) that attaches to another functional group, such as chlorine (vinyl chloride) or acetate (vinyl acetate). If moist air leaks into a house through gaps in the wall or roof, you can have problems. But in a tight house with a good air barrier and a supply-only ventilation system, most of the air that’s drawn inside is drawn in through the air conditioner, so the first cold surfaces it sees are the cooling coils. If you have air leaks in your building envelopeExterior components of a house that provide protection from colder (and warmer) outdoor temperatures and precipitation; includes the house foundation, framed exterior walls, roof or ceiling, and insulation, and air sealing materials., you usually can’t see the condensation — unless you’re a forensic engineer like Straube, who goes around cutting holes in walls. However, condensation is sometimes visible in the attic; all you have to do is look for frost or dampness forming on the underside of the OSB or plywood roof sheathing.