1. Can you precisely control the temperature in every room of your home? 2. Are all areas of your home, top to bottom, comfortable all the time? 3. Do you have rooms in your home that no one occupies, yet you still cool & heat them? 4. Do you have a light switch in every room of your home? 5. Would you like to save up to 30% on your energy bill by adding zoning? Install Zoning to your HVAC System Today! 1. Zoning allows you to precisely control the temperature in every room or (zone) of your home. By placing a thermostat in every room and an automatic damper in the duct controlling airflow to that room. 2. Your entire home cannot be comfortable all the time. The reason, typically most homes only have 1 thermostat located in a central hallway of the house. If that thermostat is located upstairs, how are you controlling your comfort downstairs?Why waste heating & cooling on rooms no one is using? it’s 10pm and you are ready for bed. No one is in the downstairs living areas so why cool or heat them?

Shut them off by adding zoning and save on your energy costs. 4. You wouldn’t control all the lights in your entire home with just one switch, why control the heating and cooling in your entire home with just one thermostat? how much do new hvac units costEspecially when heating & cooling counts for over 50% of your utility bill!my ac unit doesn't turn on 5. Who wouldn’t want to save up to 30% on their monthly utility bill? why is there water under my ac unitWith zoning, you can! What do I need to install zoning to my existing system? 1. Zone Control Panel: The Zone Control Panel is the central control that will communicate between thermostats, dampers and your HVAC equipment. It is mounted by your equipment and is the brains of the entire zoning application.

2. Thermostats: Thermostats read the air temperature in each room (or zone) of your house. If the temperature is too cold or too hot for your liking, the thermostat will send a signal to the control panel to either bring on cool or warm air to that room or zone. 3. Zone Dampers: Dampers are placed in your ducts to control the airflow to certain rooms (or zones) of your home. The dampers are wired to a specific zone on the control panel, which is controlled by a specific thermostat in your home. Dampers automatically open and close depending on which thermostats are calling. It’s the middle of the summer: You are ready for bed, it’s 10pm. You make one last inspection downstairs, lock up and shut off the thermostats that control the air downstairs. (Just like you would shut off all the lights) You head up to your bedroom and set the temperature at 70 degrees F. The control panel reads that thermostat call, it activates your AC and shuts all the dampers in your duct system except the damper (or dampers) that control airflow to your bedroom.

Now, only your bedroom is receiving cool air. 1. You are staying comfortable in your bedroom because you now have a thermostat in there. 2. You are not wasting AC on the downstairs because the dampers that control areas of the downstairs are closed. Those thermostats are not on. 3. You are automatically saving energy by shutting the downstairs off. Up to 30% in fact. Zoning installed on an existing systemYour HVAC coil is one of the most important pieces when it comes to controlling the temperature in your home throughout the year, so you want to make sure that it is always working properly.  While coils are meant to last, they can easily become worn down and become less efficient if not maintained properly. If you’re looking for replacement coils for your home, look no further than HVAC Parts Shop, your leading internet source for Lennox OEM repair parts. From stand-alone replacement coils & drain pans to full coil assemblies, we make it easy for you to get the parts you need at affordable price and with fast shipping right to your home.

CONDENSATE CONTROLSDEFROST CONTROL BOARDSENCLOSURESFAN BLOWER CONTROLSFAN COIL RELAY CONTROLSFURNACE CONTROL BOARDSGAS IGNITION CONTROLSHARD STARTSHEAD PRESSURE CONTROLSHUMIDITY CONTROLSLEAD LAG CONTROLSLINE VOLTAGE / PHASE MONITORSLOCKOUT PROTECTION RELAYSMOTOR PROTECTIONMOTOR SPEED CONTROLSMOTOR STARTERSOIL PRIMARY CONTROLSSURGE PROTECTIONTHERMOSTATSTIME DELAY RELAYS ICM offers low cost, form, fit and functional furnace control board replacement for many popular OEM models. Our furnace control boards come standard with many safety features including 100-percent gas shutoff in case of ignition failure. All ICM Furnace Controls are quality made in the USA.post #1 of 76 Heater / AC Control Replacement post #2 of 76 post #3 of 76 As in your '99, I have the same "Manual" HVAC controls in my '02. They are NOT interchangeable with the "Automatic" climate control system components used in the "EX" cars. Sounds like you've done all your basic homework very well. I suspect a faulty control unit, with several of your switches being defective.

I am ASSUMING there is nothing otherwise wrong with your A/C system and your RW defroster. If you can't find an ostensibly decent used one in a local salvage yard, you may have to bite the bullet for a new one from your dealer. At Majestic Honda's website, they indicate a price of $162.70. Plug in your VIN, then look under "heater controls" for the exploded diagram and cost. post #4 of 76 post #5 of 76 post #6 of 76 post #7 of 76 Originally Posted by HunterX I have the same problem on my Accord LX 1999. Looks like I need to buy and install a new AC / Heater Control. Could you please share the instructions for swapping this component. post #8 of 76 Originally Posted by markov314 I just fixed a 2000 Accord LX with this snafu. The good news is that this is as close to plug and play for a fix as you can get. You can look up how to access the radio for detailed directions but in a nutshell: - Remove plastic shroud/surround in center of dash

*remove 2 screws at bottom *FOr third scres, it's hidden behind the clock. Using a thin bladed knife (I used a kitchen knife wrapped in a paper ticcue to avoid scratshing) or screwdriver, pry the bottom of the clock out and pull the unit out. Unplug the wires and set aside. Take out 3rd screw behind in dash. Lift shroud from bottom out. - AC control unit is mounted to the back of the shroud. *Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from AC control unit. *Remove the 5 mounting screws and remove AC unit panel. *Before mounting new unit, lug in the 2 wiring harnesses and check operation...you should be good to go if the original part was the failure. - Replace pieces in reverse order Easy-Peasy...be careful and patient with those plastic pieces so you don't scratch them. 99 Accord EX Sedan 4 cyl, Black, 187K+ miles semi-retired 08 Honda Element EX 4WD, Silver, 104k Miles The Following User Says Thank You to Bowzer For This Useful Post: post #9 of 76

post #10 of 76 1999 accord ex heat conroler post #11 of 76 post #12 of 76 post #13 of 76 I had the same problem and took apart the heater control module to see if I could fix it before dropping $300 on a new one-- in fact, mine was fixable with one jumper wire and a soldering iron. Only the blower motor speed knob worked. None of the vent buttons, A/C button, or the lights work. On the underside of the board, just jumper the input (leftmost) leg of the 78dl05 voltage regulator in the middle of the board to the positive leg of capacitor C1. Since the whole panel went dead all of a sudden, with nothing working, I pried open the module with a small flat head screwdriver, and pulled the knobs off. I tested the 5v regulator which supplies 5v power using the 12v from the battery. The part is 78dl05 and it is in the middle of the board. It was not outputting 5v, so I next checked if it was receiving 12v. Pin 1 Input (12v) Pin 2 output (5v)

Pin 3 Common (ground) Pin 1 of the harness is +12v, and the ground pin is in the very middle all by itself. The board was receiving +12v. So that means that there is an open circuit somewhere between the regulator and the connector. So I traced back from the input leg of the 78dl05 to the connector CN1. The first through hole was covered in greenish blue corrosion. It is located underneath a rubber strip directly below the 78DL05, which is why I didn't spot it immediately. I wouldn't be surprised if this is how most of these boards fail. The only other thing between the input leg and the connector CN1 is a capacitor, C1. It looked fine (wasn't burst or leaking). I could have attempted to fix the through hole in the board, but it would likely die again, so I decided to just jumped the input leg to the capacitor, which provides a handy place to solder to. I jumped the positive side of C1 to the input leg of the 78dl05 (left most leg, labeled in+ on the top side of the board) and then plugged it back into the harness, turned the car on, voila, all works fine.