It is a big deal when the air conditioning goes out on a hot summer day, but there is no need to wait for help to come to you.  Many air conditioning malfunctions are not difficult to identify and repair.  The following test procedure will help you identify if the problem with your outdoor unit is the fan motor, the capacitor, or the contactor.Troubleshooting the “outdoor air conditioner unit not running” starts with some easy commonsense steps:Section A; you can hear the a/c compressor running and the fan motor is not turning.Because the compressor is running you know there is 220 volts power to the outdoor unit and you know the contactor is doing its job of delivering that 220 volts to the compressor and to the motor.  The malfunction will be a bad capacitor and/or a bad motor. Capacitors can be tested with multi-meters that have the ability to read microfarads or you can take your capacitor (and your motor) to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for a free bench test.  If the capacitor tests good then your motor is bad.

Caution – Capacitors can store an electric charge (like a battery).  The shock hazard is non-lethal, but it is no fun.   Check the 220 volt power is off and discharge the capacitor by shorting between capacitor terminals (with insulated screwdriver) before removing the wires from the terminals.how to install an ac unit in the wallyou cannot hear the a/c compressor running and the fan motor is not turning.  consumer reviews carrier ac unitsYour next troubleshooting step will be checking the 220 volt power because it is highly unlikely both the compressor and the fan motor would fail at the same time.  best buy central air conditioning unitsFailure of the contactor (see picture above) most often produces this symptom. 

You can prove the contactor is the problem by using a multi-meter or you can take your contactor to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for a free bench test.Testing the contactor on air conditioner outdoor unitCaution: use care when measuring live voltages not to touch bare connections or short them to the cabinet or to other terminals with the meter probes.Part Request Part Number or Description*Email* More From Jim PlummerJim is an ex-Air Force pilot and a business school graduate of University of Texas at Austin. He has been in the appliance parts business since 1975. Let's get some housekeeping topics out of the way before we tackle the unique components that make up a standard air conditioner. The biggest job an air conditioner has to do is to cool the indoor air. That's not all it does, though. Air conditioners monitor and regulate the air temperature via a thermostat. They also have an onboard filter that removes airborne particulates from the circulating air. Air conditioners function as dehumidifiers.

Because temperature is a key component of relative humidity, reducing the temperature of a volume of humid air causes it to release a portion of its moisture. That's why there are drains and moisture-collecting pans near or attached to air conditioners, and why air conditioners discharge water when they operate on humid days. Still, the major parts of an air conditioner manage refrigerant and move air in two directions: indoors and outside: Evaporator -Condenser -Expansion valve -Compressor - The cold side of an air conditioner contains the evaporator and a fan that blows air over the chilled coils and into the room. The hot side contains the compressor, condenser and another fan to vent hot air coming off the compressed refrigerant to the outdoors. In between the two sets of coils, there's an expansion valve. It regulates the amount of compressed liquid refrigerant moving into the evaporator. Once in the evaporator, the refrigerant experiences a pressure drop, expands and changes back into a gas.

The compressor is actually a large electric pump that pressurizes the refrigerant gas as part of the process of turning it back into a liquid. There are some additional sensors, timers and valves, but the evaporator, compressor, condenser and expansion valve are the main components of an air conditioner. Although this is a conventional setup for an air conditioner, there are a couple of variations you should know about. Window air conditioners have all these components mounted into a relatively small metal box that installs into a window opening. The hot air vents from the back of the unit, while the condenser coils and a fan cool and re-circulate indoor air. Bigger air conditioners work a little differently: Central air conditioners share a control thermostat with a home's heating system, and the compressor and condenser, the hot side of the unit, isn't even in the house. It's in a separate all-weather housing outdoors. In very large buildings, like hotels and hospitals, the exterior condensing unit is often mounted somewhere on the roof.

A traditional home comfort system has two parts: an indoor unit, such as a furnace or air handler, and an outdoor unit. An air conditioner is the outdoor unit that cools air and sends it to the indoor unit to be circulated through your home. The indoor and outdoor units are designed to work together, and when the air conditioner is properly matched with a furnace or air handler, the result is maximum efficiency and extended system life. The air conditioning part of your "split system" includes a compressor, a fan, condenser coil, evaporator coil and a refrigerant. The system extracts heat from indoor air and transfers it outside, leaving the cooled indoor air to be recirculated. Air conditioning and cooling efficiency is measured using a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). A higher SEER signifies higher energy efficiency. The basic components of an air conditioning system: A Condensing Unit (the outdoor section) A matching indoor Air Handler or Gas Furnace with coil

Ductwork to transfer the cooled air throughout the home Q: My air conditioning system isn't cooling very well. Should I replace it? A: You may wish to consider replacing your air conditioning system if it is old, inefficient or in need of repair. Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as ten years ago. In addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce the efficiency of the system. Q: How expensive is central air conditioning? A: Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the type and condition of the ductwork installed and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner. PSE&G offers a complete range of systems and accessories available to meet your needs. Q: What should I look for in an air conditioning system? A: First, the unit should be properly sized to provide enough cooling for your home.

PSE&G can provide a load calculation for your home if you aren't sure. Next, consider comfort issues in the home. New products can reduce uneven temperatures from room to room. If you have allergies, look for systems that filter your home's air as it circulates. Finally, know your budget parameters and the efficiency of the system being proposed. Q: How long can I expect a new system to last? A: Industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 12-15 years (sea coast applications may be less). Q: What is involved in replacing an old system? A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, your installer should inspect the other items in your air conditioning system, such as: ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil. Need new central air conditioning? PSE&G will replace your old air conditioning system with quality York and Honeywell products.

We offer an easy payment plan, with no money down and monthly payments right on your PSE&G bill. For a free replacement estimate Call 1-800-240-3609 or find out more on our Central Air Conditioning Replacement webpage. A glossary of air conditioning terms Here are some terms that you might hear when doing research into your air conditioning system: Air Handler - The portion of the system that moves heated or cooled air throughout a home's ductwork. Balance Point - An outdoor temperature, usually between 30° F and 45° F, at which a heat pump's output exactly equals the heating needs of the home. Below the balance point, supplementary electric resistance heat is needed to maintain indoor comfort. Btu - British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water (about one pint) by one degree F. Evaporator Coil - The portion of a heat pump or central air conditioning system that is located in the home and functions as the heat transfer point for warming or cooling indoor air.