Installation Guide for PTACs Designed for a wide range of applications, packaged terminal air conditioner units are ideal for hotels and motels, office buildings, schools and apartments. When installing a Zoneline packaged terminal air conditioner or heat pump, the following checkpoints should be followed to reduce future problems. Wall case must be level from left-to-right. Wall case must be level from front-to-back (1/4 bubble slope to rear is acceptable if rear drains are used. Case must be level if internal drain is used). Wall case should extend at least 1/4″ to the outside for caulking. Wall case must be sealed/caulked to outside wall on all four (4) sides. Wall case should be sealed/caulked to the inside wall on all four (4) sides. Standard steel wall cases are 42″ W × 16″ H × 13 3/4″ D. 16″, 24″, 28″ and 31″ deep cases are available for thicker walls. Wall case must be installed 3″ to 5″ above floor. Wall case must extend at least 2 3/8″ into room.

Sub-Base can be used for electrical connections (check NEC & local codes for compliance). Electrical sub-bases are available in 208/230-volt 15, 20 & 30-amp configurations; air conditioner and heater all in one265-volt available in 15, 20, & 30-amp configurations.wall ac unit for sale Remote Wall Thermostat (Optional)where to buy ac units in nyc Zoneline Heat pumps require 6 wires (min) for remote wall thermostat hook-up. Zonelines with electric heat and cooling require at least 5 wires for digital remote thermostat hook-up. Standard digital and programmable digital thermostats are available for both heat pumps and electric heat models. 208/230-volt applications use power cords for wall receptacle or sub-base applications.

265-volt applications must be direct connected per NEC. Architectural-3-colors available: Beige, Maple, & Bittersweet Chocolate. Architectural-Extruded anodized aluminum (can be painted to match outdoor motif). Stamped-Standard louvered aluminum grille available. Older architectural grilles can be used if RAK40 baffle kit is installed on chassis. Architectural grilles made by others must have 65% free area. These grilles must have properly located baffles/deflectors or RAK40 kits must be installed on chassis. Grilles not supplied by GE Appliances must be approved by a GE Appliances Applications Engineer to ensure compatibility. Zonelines operated during construction should be cleaned prior to property opening. Unless properly cleaned, drywall and construction dust will coat the interior of the units and create unwanted odors and dust in the rooms, generating guest complaints. Drywall and construction dust may set off room fire alarms when the electric heaters are energized.

• Selecting the right accessories for your GE Zoneline Wiring Wall Thermostat (Makeup Air Models Only) When wiring a wall thermostat for the AZ45/AZ65 series Zoneline, use this configuration.The unit installed was the Mitsubishi SRK71ZMA. It was chosen in this situation because of it's high powered fan. Check out the video below to see how it was done. Installing air conditioners in apartments - Internal brick walls This installation was in an older stlye Heritage listed house. Due to the fact that we were not allowed to locate the outdoor unit on the front of the building or have any external ducting. Our solution was to run the pipes internally through the roof. It involved a small amount of internal duct work to get the pipes into the roof. The outdoor unit was mounted on a roof bracket at the back of the pitched roof out of sight. This advanced installation required the indoor unit to be installed on an internal wall. The lounge room had floor to ceiling windows on all the external walls leaving no space to mount the air conditioner.

The solution we were able to come up with meant running the pipes up into the roof via the cavity in the wall and running the drain out through not one but two cupboards. Running pipes into the roof and outside is not the issue here. The problem is the drain. The home was sitting on a concrete slab which prevents us from running the drain down under the house (which would also include cutting out plaster). Fortunately the middle of the room backed on to the two cupboards. The unit installed was the Fujitsu ASTG34LFCC 9.2KW. As you can see the outdoor unit on this size air conditioner is bigger than most. This installation required internal duct work becasue the walls of the lounge room had no external wall. They were butted up against the neighbours apartment whcih was in a long line of apartments. The split system indoor unit had to be in the lounge room so the only way to get the drain outside was using internal ducting. We took the pipes into the bedroom so that they were not visible from the lounge room which made the install just that little bit neater.

The pipes went straight up onto the flat tin roof as the apartment was on the top flor of the complex. The drain was then ran down and around the skirting boards to the outer wall. We kept the drain inside the larger duct so that is all looked uniform. The outdoor unit on the roof was in the middle of the apartment and was not visible from any angle from the ground. The client wanted the unit located on this internal wall because it lined up with another room directly opposite this position. That meant the air conditioner was able to direct airflow into two areas of the house. The installation required cutting out plaster and taking the pipes and drain underneath the house and then out to the condensor unit located underneath the decking below. This is a pretty good solution because it not only was the best position for the indoor unit but it kept the outdoor unit completely out of direct sunlight and also out of the weather. This will help with the overall efficiency of the unit (direct sunlight can lower the efficiency of the system) and will minimize wear and tear over the years from the elements.

These two air conditioners were installed into a home that had rooms divided by walls, so trying to install one larger unit to effectively heat and cool the area was not the best idea. We ended up installing two 5kw units. One in the kitchen and one in the loungeroom.Both units were installed on internal walls so we had to cut out plaster to run the pipe and drain. The house was on a sloping block and was raised up off ground level and had a double garage and bedroom below. This allowed us to take the pipes down into the garage and run the piping across the roof and ouit to the side of the house where the outdoor units were mounted on wall brackets. The split system was installed into a bedroom which was located at the front of the house. Normally we would put the indoor unit in the corner of the room so that the pipes and drain would not be seen. The installation would be nice and neat. But the client insisted that the unit sit in the middle of the wall so it would look centered.

He also did not want the duct to exit on the other side of the wall near the front door and run around to the outdoor unit or cut out plaster and put the pipes inside the wall. So, the only solution we had was to install internal duct to cover the pipes and drain. At the end of the day we will always do as the client wishes so long as we know we have given them all their options first. Ironically, he also insisted on the outdoor unit being mounted right outside the bedroom wall and right at the front of the entrance to the house to keep the installation costs down. So on one hand he did not want ducting near the porch but was happy to have ducting and the unit right at the front of the house. The best solution in our opinion would have been to put the indoor unit in the corner of the room eliminating the need for the internal duct and then run the pipes maybe 3-4 meters to the left of the stairs and mount the unit on the ground. But hey...we are here to do what the client wants!