The reset button on a gas furnace is behind the access door in most furnaces. You can avoid expensive repairs by troubleshooting furnace problems before calling a professional. The blower motor itself does not create the heat; rather it blows the heated air created by the furnace through the system's ductwork. Start with the simple causes before moving to the more complex ones. Most furnaces also have a reset button that clears any issues that might cause the furnace to produce no heat. Check the thermostat and ensure it is set properly. Set the thermostat to "heat" and set the fan to "auto." Adjust the thermostat approximately 3 to 5 degrees above the room's current temperature to check if the heat comes on. Ensure that all vents are open in the rooms where you want the heat. Also, check the cold-air return to ensure the filter is clean. Dirty filters clog with dust and need regular cleaning for optimum operation. If the filter is not one that you can clean, replace it. Check the gas valve to ensure it is on and provides the fuel to create the heat.

When on, the valve's handle is inline with the pipe. When it is off, it is perpendicular to the pipe. If it is a gas or propane-powered furnace, you will need to follow the owner's manual for resetting. Typically, the reset process requires turning the reset button or switch off for five minutes before turning it back on. If you have a pilot light on your furnace, ensure it is on. parts for central ac unitsIf not, follow the manufacturer's instructions for resetting the pilot light. ac units for old carsIf after doing all these things the furnace does not produce heat, it might require a new igniter in pilot-less furnaces. best central heat ac unitsTurn the circuit breaker off and on to reset an electric furnace. If this does not cause the heat to come on, the heating element might need replacement, which requires the services of a professional.

Tip Warning References HVAC for Beginners: Furnace TroubleshootingHeat USA: Troubleshooting a Gas Furnace Photo Credits Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images Suggest a Correction No Air Coming Out of Your Vents? Could be Your Air Handler! You’ve probably never heard of an air handler. But if your air conditioning and heating system is running and no air is coming out of your vents, the air handler could be the problem. George Brazil employs air conditioning and heating experts that will diagnose and repair your problem right the first time. Get the experts that Phoenix homeowners trust – schedule a repair online. What is an air handler? An air handler is an essential part of your air conditioning and heating system. It holds the fan and is responsible for distributing the heated and cooled air throughout your home. There are three main types of heating and cooling systems in the Phoenix area. The type of systems affects where your air handler is located.

Split air conditioner and furnace – In this setup, you have an outside air conditioning unit (likely on the ground outside your home) and a furnace inside your attic or a closet. The air handler is part of the furnace. Split heat pump – This is much the same as the first, but there is no furnace. Your outside unit is responsible for both heating and cooling your home. However, there is still an air handler in your attic or closet that distributes the heated and cooled air throughout your ducts. Packaged (rooftop) air conditioning and heating – In this situation, the air handler is packaged with the outdoor unit into one piece. Why You want a money-saving, variable-speed air handler? You probably know that stop and start traffic makes your vehicle less efficient and uses more gas. The same is true of your air conditioner and heater. Standard air handlers can cause your heating and air conditioning system to cycle on and off frequently, ruining your system’s efficiency.

A variable speed air handler adjusts the speed of your air handler to the needs of your system so it runs longer and more efficiently. Schedule your free estimateStep 1: check your water tempShow All ItemsIf your home is equipped with a central air conditioning system you may have noticed a drain line on the outside dripping water near the air conditioner. This line drains condensation from the inside air handler to the outside. If this line clogs (usually from algae) it can cause water damage inside the house. You can prevent a clog by simply pouring a cup of household bleach into the line from the inside. To remove a clog once it has occurred, attach a wet/dry vacuum to the drain line outside (removing the paper filter first) and suck the clog out. Innovative Pump Unclogs AC Condensation Drain Lines (article) How to Clean an AC Condensation Drain Line (video) Stop an Outdoor Faucet from Dripping DIY Home Maintenance and Repair Projects Ryobi Lithium-Ion Drill and Impact Driver Combo Kit

Posted on Aug 6 2014 by Image 1 of 3 It's easy to see that this duct system is zoned because parts of the zone dampers are visible on the outside of the ducts. The green lights indicate that the zone dampers are open. Last week I wrote about what happens when you try to save energy by closing air conditioning registers in unused rooms. In the end, I recommended not doing it because you won’t save money and you may create some big problems for yourself, like freezing up the coil and killing your compressor. At the end of the article, I mentioned that zoned duct systems do close off registers, and that doing so can be OK with the right kind of equipment and design. But there’s one thing often done in zoned duct systems that’s rarely done well. Before we find out what that thing is, though, let's be precise in our language and clear up exactly what we're talking about. The word “zoning” is used in more than one way in the context of heating and air conditioning systems in a house.

First, larger houses are almost always zoned. That is, they have more than one thermostat so you can control the conditions separately in different parts of the house. In a two-story house, for example, there will probably be at least two thermostats — one upstairs and one downstairs. Is It OK to Close Air Conditioner Vents in Unused Rooms? Keeping Cool in a Two-Story House All About Furnaces and Duct Systems How Duct Leakage Steals Twice Thou Shalt Commission Thy Ducts! The other way that the term “zoning” is used is to describe a single duct system attached to a single HVAC(Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning). Collectively, the mechanical systems that heat, ventilate, and cool a building. system that serves multiple zones. In most homes with forced-air HVAC systems, each thermostat is connected to its own heating and cooling system. The home is zoned, but the HVAC system is not. In a “zoned system,” a single heating and air conditioning system is controlled by multiple thermostats in multiple zones.

In the photo above, the three green lights are part of three zone dampers that control the flow of air to three separate zones. Depending on the needs of the house, any combination of one, two, or three zone dampers may be open and sending conditioned air to their respective zones. If only one or two of the zones are calling for air, most air handlers will create extra static pressure because one or two of the pathways are closed off. Enter the bypass duct (shown in Image #2, below). When the system is running but not all of the zone dampers are open, the bypass duct — in theory — is supposed to relieve the extra pressure and maintain good air flow throughout the duct system. The problems with the bypass duct A few years ago at the ACI conference, I heard John Proctor and Rick Chitwood discuss the issue of bypass ducts. Proctor isn’t a fan of zoning at all, and Chitwood is. On one point, though, they both agreed: Bypass ducts should never be used. Here are three reasons why:

Throwing cold air directly into the return plenum reduces the temperature of the air coming in to be cooled. That makes the evaporator coil get colder, and the colder it gets, the less efficient it becomes. The bypass duct steals air. Even with all three zone dampers open, the bypass duct has a big pressure difference across it, and air is lazy. It'll cheat and take the path of least resistance whenever possible, in this case the bypass duct. Not only is a colder evaporator coil less efficient, it's also more likely to freeze up, as the condensation it collects eventually drops below the freezing point. (And if you think a bypass duct is bad for air flow, a frozen coil is way worse. It's really hard to push air through a solid block of ice.) Savings from eliminating the bypass Just this week, Proctor posted an article on zoning and bypass ducts on his website. With the article, he included a video demonstration of a zoned system, showing the changes in airflow and temperatures with and without the bypass duct open.

Then he performed the calculations to show the efficiency for each configuration. In his little experiment, the three configurations with the bypass duct closed (with no air through bypass) were 22%, 27%, and 32% more efficient than the configuration with the bypass duct open. Of course, if you’re sending air to only one zone, you still have the issues of reduced air flow in a PSC blower and increased energy with an ECM blower, as I described last week for the register-closing scenario. To do zoning right, you’ve got to account for the extra air when one or more zones are closed during operation. Probably the best way to do that is with a multi-stage air conditioner that can also ramp down the fan speed to send less total air through the system. My friend David Butler, one of the most accomplished HVAC designers I know, believes that bypass ducts can be done right... but it’s still best to avoid them. "It's a tool that should only be used when [other] options aren't feasible or possible."