103 posts, read 178,064 times 14,212 posts, read 10,888,620 times 12,091 posts, read 9,616,156 times 17,936 posts, read 16,306,134 times 4,576 posts, read 6,189,096 times 2,965 posts, read 2,719,638 times Originally Posted by adk34 I am in SC having the same issue. I have both thermostats set to 68 and I cannot get the house above 58 degrees. Vents are blowing cold air. Is the cold air in the crawl space causing the ducts to get too cold, or the unit is not made to handle these cold temps? I don't know if I should turn it over to Emergency heat setting. Google tells conflicting info on that. Freeeeeeeeeeezing and covered in blankets...I just moved from up north where I am used to heavy duty furnaces that blow hot air in the winter, not sure what to do here so I lit the oven with the door open, but the house is 3k sq feet If the air outside is cold, around 20 degrees or so, there is much less heat that can be harvested each cycle, so the air flowing through the inner coil cannot be heated as much.

All the losses combined means that at about 10 degrees F, it is likely better for you to set the thermostat on a heat pump down to about 55 degrees (or whatever is required to keep pipes from freezing overnight) and use space heaters or other heat sources to keep a small portion of the house warm. 227 posts, read 285,883 times Heat Pump Not Blowing Hot Air? Back to Blog Page Take advantage of these seasonal offersAir Conditioner or Heat Pump Diagnosis: This article is the start of our series on how to diagnose an air conditioner or heat pump that is not cooling: this article explains how to diagnose and correct air conditioning problems like lost or reduced air conditioner cooling capacity, reduced or no cool air flow, reduced or no actual lowering of the air temperaturer, or an air conditioner that won't start. First try our air conditioner checklist just below - try these steps before calling your HVAC service company. If you don't see information you want, ask us for it using the comments box on this page.

Is there no cool air at all coming out of the supply registers? Or is there air blowing out of the supply registers but it's not cool enough? Here we explain how to diagnose loss of air conditioning cool air flow or cool air temperature. Before ordering an expensive air conditioner service call to restore lost cooling capacity, here are a few simple stepswindow air conditioner repair guideSome of these can be done by any homeowner, others may require a bit more expertise.how much is a new outdoor ac unit Below we provide first a very basic Air Conditioning or Heat Pump Diagnostic Checklist, followed by more detailed descriptions of common problem cooling system topics.new ac unit cost arizona Following the checklist we provide more detailed descriptions, photos, and links to in-depth air conditioning inspection, diagnosis, and repair or improvement advice.

Where to start: check that the air conditioning equipment is turned on, the thermostat is calling for cooling, and that the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork. Details of how to proceed in figuring out what's wrong with your air conditioner begin just below. If the air conditioning system is still not working, or if the A/C system is running but cool air is not coming out of the supply registers you probably need to call a service technician, but below are some things to check further yourself. The basic air conditioning diagnostic checks just below are followed by more detailed investigation of why the air conditioner is not working. But unless you already have a good idea of what's not working, start with these five steps. If the air conditioning system is still not working, or if the A/C system is running but cool air is not coming out of the supply registers you probably need to call a service technician, but here are some things to check further yourself.

Just after these checks we discuss what to do if the air conditioner is running but air flow is too weak (A/C Flow Too Weak) or too warm. Is the outdoor compressor-fan unit (COMPRESSOR & CONDENSING COIL) running? If not, be sure that the outdoor compressor/condenser unit service switch and the air conditioner indoor power switch, fuse, or circuit breaker are all in the "on" position. Check the outside compressor condensing coil for damage or blockage. A blocked condensing coil can cause the compressor to overheat, stop running, or become noisy and work poorly. If you cannot find your air conditioner controls and switches see A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES - list of controls and switches found on air conditioners and heat pumps Condensing unit fan diagnostics: at FAN, COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER UNIT we explain the diagnosis of problems with the compressor/condenser fan and fan motor. Also see ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE. At BURNED-OUT COMPRESSOR we explain that if the condensing unit fan is not working the compressor itself may shut down or even be ruined by overpressure or over temperature.

Also see NOISES, COMPRESSOR CONDENSER where some noise problems are traced to the cooling fan . Is the indoor blower unit running? If not be sure that the electrical power switch at your furnace or air conditioner air-handler is in the "on" position. Typically the air handler or blower unit is indoors inside the basement, crawl area, or attic. Sometimes there is more than one switch, such as one right at the unit and another at the entry to the room where the equipment is located, or even upstairs on a higher floor if your air handler is in a basement or crawl space. Make sure that the blower compartment cover or door is properly closed or an interlock switch may be keeping the system "off". Also remember to check for a dirty, blocked COOLING COIL or EVAPORATOR COIL. A coil blocked by ice or dirt will not produce cool air. A/C Cooling Coil Icing. If your air conditioning equipment is running but little or no cool air is coming out of the supply registers, check that your air filter(s) have not become blocked with dirt and debris.

Usually the air filter is right at the air handler or blower unit, or your air filter may be installed behind a grille covering a central warm-air return that sends air back to the air handler. See A/C Filter Problems for details In ceilings, walls, or floors, where cool air is supposed to be delivered to various rooms in the building, be sure that the register is in the "open" position (you will be able to see through it into the ductwork) and be sure you haven't blocked the supply registers with a carpet or furniture. Look for a duct damper or register that has been closed; look for a flex-duct section that has become disconnected, bent, or crimped or squashed. Remember that a duct may have become disconnected in an attic or crawl space. Look for an air filter that has come loose and blown into the ductwork, clogging it. At left you can see a ceiling air supply register that has leak stains around its opening - further investigation for a condensate leak or roof leak is needed.