I've GE window AC 0.75 ton it has stopped cooling I cleaned the nylon net properly with old tooth brush,it was totally blocked Then I combed the metallic horizontal fin like structures which were behind the nylon net covering the twisted copper tube with same brush they were partially blocked Further I combed and cleaned the same fin like structure which was out side After some time I switched the AC On First it started blowing normal air Then it clicked the compressor also but within 25/30 seconds compressor switched Off and again and AC started blowing only normal air I then switched Off my AC and allowed to cool the machine after 1 hour I repeted the same and the compressor switched Off again Then I noticed that water has stopped dripping from outside also the water tray had very little water in it I called the local machanic He examined my AC and told that Gas is leaking from the thin tube comming out of compressor,it may have caused due to rubbing if that metal tube on body of compressor due to vibration

Further he pushed back the tube little bit to avoid contact with compressor body He told me that he will try to weild that thin tube... but it may block the tube he will try it..if it ever get blocked we have to replace (I felt his story professionally good but smelt some thing fishy in it..) Many a time while browsing on NET I came across this sight.. So I am making it try today to ask my problem... I hope I'll be satisfied Try searching the internet for "repair air conditioner" or "appliance repair," or "window air conditioner repair." If the compressor starts, but then shuts off, it may be overheating, caused by a blocked tube. A thermal overload device cuts off the electricity to the motor. When it cools down enough, it will close again (like a thermostat) and allow the compressor to run again until it overheats again. If the tube is leaking, it will blow bubbles (even very slowly) when you apply soapy solution on the tube where you think it is leaking.

If the refrigerant gas has completely leaked out, it may not blow any bubbles. If the compressor will not run, it will not pressurize the refrigerant gas to force it out through the leak. When the compressor does not start at all, you may still hear a humming sound, which means that electricity is running through the coils in the compressor motor, but it won't rotate. water around my ac unitThis can be caused by a faulty starter capacitor. screen to cover ac unitThe purpose of this capacitor is to allow the starter coil to "kick" the coils out of magnetic alignment and allow the running coils to take over. window ac at lowest priceTurn it off right away to prevent overheating. I replaced a capacitor in one of my air conditioners, and it worked again.

Get some foaming type, acidic based coil cleaner and clean both coils and especially the inside of the outdoor coil as it gets blocked by the slingblades hurling the condensate upon the condenser coils to evaporate the water and sub cool refrigerant, the condensate pan gets dusty and the water gets mucky then gets hurled into the outside coil but it looks ok from outside walking by it!What does automatic mode mean? Can I put an extension on the power cord?I'm Dr. Vinifera, or "Vinny" for short. Ask me your toughest wine questions, from the technical aspects of winemaking to the fine points of etiquette. I hope you find my answers educational and even amusing. Looking for a particular answer? Check my archive and my FAQs. You can also follow me on Twitter: @AskDrVinny. Do you have a question for Dr. Vinny? I've heard that using a window air-conditioning unit as a cooler for a wine cellar is "not an option.” Compared to a through-the-wall wine cooler, they both use a condenser/evaporator refrigeration system and both have isolated inside-air and outside-air systems.

A 1,500-BTU wine cooler costs $1,500. A 6,000-BTU window air conditioner costs $190. —Peter B., Walnut Creek, Calif. I know some people that have chosen an air conditioner for the purpose of refrigeration in their cellar, but there are some disadvantages that come with the lower cost. First off, air-conditioning units are typically only set to go down to about 62° F, which is a little off from the ideal 55° F target. Air conditioners also tend to cool in part by drying out the air—there’s a lot of condensation coming out of a window unit. While you’re right that there is sometimes some condensation with cellar-refrigeration units, it’s typically considerably less. After all, cellar-refrigeration units are designed specifically to cool air down to 55° F and keep the humidity around 70 percent. With an air-conditioning unit, you’re probably only going to get down to 62° F, with humidity around 35 percent. I know that some wine lovers question the necessity of humidity in a wine cellar.

I’ve always said that the most important thing about wine storage is a consistent temperature in the 55° F range, but I think it’s a good idea to take light, vibration and humidity into account. A healthy relative humidity can help keep corks from drying out, and dry corks can compromise the seal and prematurely age wine. If you’re not convinced about that, try leaving a bottle of wine in a refrigerator for a few weeks or months. Refrigerators, like air conditioners, cool by removing humidity, and I’ve had corks crumble in those conditions after a couple weeks. Think about that if you’re thinking about cellaring your wines for years. See all from Ask Dr. Vinny We break down the basics—how to taste, serve, store and more. » Maps of major wine regions » Grape variety characteristics Learn to taste wine like a pro, pull a cork with flair, get great wine service in a restaurant and more Learn from the experts and get the most out of each sip.