Written Written Written Window units only need to achieve between 9.4  and 10.7 depends on size. But an central AC unit must have a minimum energy efficiency ratio of 12. One reason behind window AC has lower rating is that, it is impossible to fit much advance hardware into that little box. While Central air conditioning can work  at a range of speed and condensers in most window units only have two on and off. Which can make a significant difference in energy use. Central air units are getting more smarter according to more efficient and beneficial . Programmable thermostats of central air conditioning can make up for forgetful central AC users by shutting the unit off when no one is at home. Should I cover my air conditioner for winter? It's difficult to find an appropriate cover, but finding a cover for an evaporation cooler is easy (and because they allow for air flow from the outdoors, it makes sense). See this answer for things to do before winter hits, where it's not clear whether an air conditioner should be covered or not.

I don't want to let water build up inside and given my climate, it will freeze and thaw repeatedly which can be very damaging. On the other hand, I don't want to create a moisture barrier that leads to other problems. Any official word on this? I have never covered mine and this article also seems to recommend not covering it: Your central air conditioning unit consists of a compressor and condensing unit placed outdoors in aThese units, built to resist the weather, generally do notIn fact, covers can cause problems because they trap moisture and create an inviting winter home for small animals. Professionals who service the units tell me that most of the damage they see in spring was caused by rodents living in the units and chewing on If your air conditioner is subject to falling ice or other debris, you could cover its top with a piece of plywood, plastic or metal held in place by a They make a great point that a cover would provide a perfect winter home for animals which would cause damage to your air conditioner.

I cover mine in the winter using a single unopened trash bag and some duct tape. The bag is the right size to cover just the top and not much of the sides. This allows ventilation on the sides while keeping snow and ice from entering from above. With the duct tape, it's just a strip down each corner and then I run a band of tape around the perimeter of the bag to reduce the risk of it blowing away. my ac unit is not turning onI think the important tip that Jeff's link mentions is to not completely seal the unit, but simply prevent damage from above.how to fix your air conditioner unit Most people who advocate covering mention that debris, ice, and snow can get into your air conditioner in the winter if it's not covered. window ac units on sale

Plus it'll end up more weather-beaten if left uncovered. Never covered mine in the 31 years I've had it and I live-in upstate New York--brutal winters. no need to cover it.It's designed to be outdoors.Around here there's more damage done in the spring with the cotton wood seeds plugging the condenser. It is good to cover the top 1/4 to 1/2 of the air conditioner. This stops moisture from entering through the top and then freezing/thawing repeatedly through the winter. First, although paint technology is very advanced, constant expansion and contraction of painted metal will eventually lead to cracking and this rusting of the metal. Secondly, there are threaded connections between the tubing that goes from the compressor and condenser/evaporator cooling coils. Water can enter these threads and expand and contract eventually causing a leak and thus loss of gas. Covering 1/4 to 1/2 of the unit will keep the interior of the unit under the same temperature/humidity conditions as the outside air.

Although this cover will keep the interior of the unit dryer, it will not provide as good a quality of home for critters as if the unit was covered completely. There will still be good ventilation of icy air to make animules look for better digs.Browse other questions tagged winterizing air-conditioner or ask your own question.If you've done an energy efficiency assessment of your home, maybe had some additional insulation installed, and you’re hiring a heating or cooling systems professional then now’s the time to decide on the right HVAC system for your home. Newer systems today provide many more options, such as variable fan speeds and multiple stages of heating and cooling. Single-stage heating and cooling is popular in colder winter climates and hot and humid areas, respectfully, because the systems are set to provide comfort for the coldest or warmest days of the year. But that also means that a great majority of the time, these heating systems or air conditioners are operating at full capacity when they don’t need to be.

That's where a multi-stage system comes in handy and can save you energy and money. You can get a single-stage system with variable fan speeds to create a variable air flow, says Donald Prather technical services manager for the Air Conditioning Contractors of America(ACCA). Though that variation is limited, he stresses. You may not experience much of a difference, because the heating or cooling unit is still working at its maximum output. Zoned HVAC systems can heat or cool individual areas of your home by controlling zone valves or zone dampers inside the vents or ductwork, which selectively block the flow of air. Zoned systems can save you energy and money by only heating or cooling certain areas when you need it. Humidifiers and dehumidfiers can be added as options to heating and cooling systems, and if you live in a very dry or humid climate these upgrades should definitely be on your list. About 50 percent relative humidity is considered optimal for humans. With these systems you can automatically control the humidity levels in a home as you heat and cool, though this is not available through forced-water heating systems that use boilers.

With humidity/dehumidification systems built into your furnace or air conditioning, you cannot control the humidity levels when the system is not on. If desired, you can add separate humidity/dehumification systems that do this. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, modern conventional heating systems can achieve efficiencies as high as 97 percent, converting nearly all the fuel to useful heat for your home. Heating units can be categorized into furnaces that provide heated air through ductwork, which is a popular type of heating system in the United States such as boilers that heat water for steam radiators or forced-water systems with baseboard radiators, electric heat and heat pumps. Furnaces generally use natural gas or propane for fuel, while boilers can use gas or oil. Seek Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings (efficiency percentage) in the 80s and 90s. The national minimum for furnaces in the United States is 78 percent. Look for Energy Star-certified systems that are more energy-efficient, and consider sealed and combustion units that bring outside air directly into the burner and exhaust directly to the outside.

These are the most efficient systems and do not pose a risk of backdrafting combustion gases. All-electric furnaces have AFUE ratings of 95 percent to 100 percent, but they are not economical is many parts of the country. You can also consider electric heat pumps to heat or cool parts or all of your home. Some heat pumps can be added onto furnaces as well, to help use less gas or propane. Radiant floors, or hydronic heating systems, often use piping under a floor. Flexible tubes are filled with water or a glycol solution to heat a concrete or other floor. These can be quite efficient and require either a boiler or heat pump. And they can be retrofitted, if carefully installed beneath wooden floor sheathing. Though radiant systems are much more effective if built into a concrete floor, which will retain the heat and release it slowly. Air conditioning systems today come in several different sizes and types, and what you decide to add or upgrade in your home depends on the systems you already have, as well as the climate.

If you live in the south, you’ll probably want a central or whole-house air conditioning system. Northern habitants may opt for portable window units that can be placed inside a window for a few months of the year. And many in between can opt for systems like ductless mini-splits that are part inside and part outside of the home. Today's best air conditioners use 30 percent to 50 percent less energy to produce the same amount of cooling as air conditioners made in the mid-1970s. Even if your air conditioner is only 10 years old, you may save 20 percent to 40 percent of your cooling energy costs by replacing it with a newer, more efficient model. The most generally known efficiency rating is Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER 13 is the minimum efficiency you should consider, but higher efficiencies are likely to be cost effective. Some central air systems have SEERs of 16. In hot, dry climates you should look at the Energy Efficiency Rating (EER), which denotes how well the system will work at peak conditions.

Also look for Energy Star-rated systems for the best energy efficiency. Air conditioners have three important parts that include a compressor, a condenser, and an evaporator. The compressor and condenser are normally located on the outside part of the air conditioner while the evaporator is located on the inside. Most central air conditioning systems in homes are split systems. Many today use for ductless mini-split systems, which can be installed by do-it-yourselfers, though it is a moderately difficult project, as interior and exterior units must be installed and both refrigerant and condensation lines must be run between the two elements. These systems can run $1,500 to $2,000 per ton, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Some in hot but non-humid climates like the southwest use evaporative coolers, also called swamp coolers, that cool outdoor air by passing it over water-saturated pads, causing the water to evaporate into it. The cooler air is then directed into the home, and pushes warmer air out through open windows.

Room air conditioners that fit into windows or can be installed in walls are good options for cooling selected spaces. Proper sizing is very important for efficient air conditioning. A small unit running for an extended period operates more efficiently and is more effective at dehumidifying than a large unit that cycles on and off too frequently. Based on size alone, an air conditioner generally needs 20 British thermal units (Btu) for each square foot of living space. Also look for a filter that slides out easily for regular cleaning, logically arranged controls, a digital readout for the thermostat setting, a built-in timer, and an Energy Star-rating for efficiency. Replacing an older unit with an EER rating of 5 with one with an EER of 10 can cut your energy costs in half, according to the DOE. Maybe you don't need to replace that heating or cooling system, and can get by with a key fix-it or two. There are plenty of possibilities that are inexpensive and can save you some money.

In gas- and oil-fired boilers or furnaces, adding a vent damper closes off air loss up a chimney when the boiler or furnace is not running. Intermittent ignition devices turn off pilot lights in older systems when not needed. Reducing the size of the gas burner orifice or nozzle in oil-fired systems, or the baffles in a gas-fired system, can effectively downsize or derate an oversized system. Excess radiators can be eliminated as well. Modulating aquastats for hot water boilers adjust the hot water temperature to the outside temps and can save 10 percent in fuel costs. And a time-delay relay for hot-water boilers causes hot water to circulate through the system without firing the boiler. An oil-fired system can also benefit from a barometric flue damper that prevents too much heat from going up a chimney. The Department of Energy offers more details on gas and oil system retrofit options. In these cases, adding a dehumidifying heat pipe can help. The process by which they work is a bit complicated, but they can be retrofitted to most air conditioning systems and heat pumps.