If you took a minute to step outside your house in Charlotte this week, you know it’s here… With temps floating into the 90’s for the 8th straight day, you can rest assured that Charlotte air conditioner repair companies are running full steam ahead to keep their customers cool during the heat spell. In a previous article, we discussed the cost to recharge a home air conditioner or heat pump on your Charlotte area central HVAC system, and in this Charlotte HVAC Guide, we are going to look at how many pounds of freon or refrigerant a system can hold. The general rule amount that can be estimated is in the 2-4 pounds per ton of cooling for your system. Disclaimer: This rule of thumb is VERY general and there are several variables that come into play. My Carrier 3-ton system may use 4-5 pounds, while your Goodman heat pump may use 5-6. The ONLY way to know for sure is to read the label on the side of the unit, and have your installer or service company provide the info for you.

As always, we recommend comparison shopping for installation and repairs as often as you can. Just like any other factor in pricing, you may find that 3 Charlotte AC repair contractors have 3 completely different prices for the same product or service.ac window unit with heat Take a look at the important variables that can affect how many pounds of freon your AC or Heat Pump may need.harga ac split bandung Probably one of the biggest factors, the size of your home AC or heat pump is going to have a significant effect on the amount of freon it uses on its own, but it will also have a downwind effect on several of the other factors listed below. average cost of air conditioning unitFor example, a larger condensing unit, needs a larger liquid line on the lineset… which also means more capacity.

Length and Size of Copper Lineset The farther distance between the condensing unit and the evaporator coil, means a longer lineset is used to connect the two. Most AC units come from the factory with enough of a charge for the unit, and 15 feet of lineset. Longer distances require additional freon. Larger capacity units also use a larger diameter tubing on the lineset, which will require more freon. SEER Rating, or Operating Efficiency If you have seen a 10 SEER system, you know they are roughly 20-30 inches tall with a 24 inch base. Essentially, a nice, small footprint. A comparable 15 SEER condensing unit may be 4 feet tall, with a 36 inch base, and be 2-3 times the size of the lower efficiency unit. This is due to all the extra coil surface required to generate the higher efficiency cooling, and thus… more freon is needed to fully charge the coil. It’s common to use a larger evaporator coil with an AC unit. In most cases, it can provide higher efficiency due to the larger coil area.

Along with the added coil surface, you may need additional freon capacity to fill it. A split system, where the condensing unit is outside and the air handler, furnace and coil are inside (aka Split) is going to have to accommodate for different coils, linesets, and several other factors that were determined by the installer when the unit was first put into use. A Packaged HVAC System, or “All in One” has everything in one cabinet outside the home. There are no different coil sizes to deal with and the lines connecting everything are self-contained in the same box. Fortunately, most Charlotte AC Contractors are honest and treat customers fairly. If you think you may have been taken advantage of during a recent home ac recharge, make sure you ask them about it and give them a fair chance to explain their pricing and reasons for using the amount of refrigerant they did.The requested URL /wordpress/?p=1658 was not found on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found

error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. Background: Our two-story house is about 3,000 square feet. When we bought it last year, it had two separate AC units, a 2.5 ton and a 4 ton. They were both old and died last month. We had them replaced with a single 5 ton unit, with two zones controlled by dampers (the original ductwork was merged into a single supply). The contractor insisted that 5 tons (versus the original 6.5) would be fine since the new system was much more efficient. It was very hot today (pushing 90) and I noticed that regardless of what I had either thermostat set to, it just kept getting hotter and hotter. I felt cool air blowing out of the vents, but it simply wasn't cooling the house. I got an emergency technician visit and he checked everything and asked me about the previous system. He came back inside and said, "We screwed up." It seems the 5 tons is not adequate for the heat load this house experiences. Although the system is working perfectly, it just can't cool both zones at once.

As a temporary workaround, he suggested running just one zone at a time. The warranty manager is going to call me tomorrow. I want to understand the options. I thought the technician said the 5 ton unit we have is the "largest residential unit available", so replacing it with something bigger might not be possible. What else could be done here? Could a second condenser be added? Is there some other way to beef up this system? Hopefully the company will "make this right" as the technician said. But given that they apparently made a mistake on sizing it, I'm not confident they'll make the best recommendation. I'm not a HVAC expert but a 5 ton unit sounds pretty large for a 3000sqft house. You can probably approach this in one of two ways. One is probably what the previous owner did and just throw more cooling capacity at the problem (two units, larger units, etc.). Alternatively, you can start looking at ways to get more out of your existing unit. Some things that might help:

If your windows are old, consider replacing them with more efficient windows Find and plug sources of air leaks - doors, windows, electrical outlets and other exterior openings Plant trees and shrubs to help shade the house Install ceiling fans to help circulate the air Add insulation to the exterior of the house (requires replacing siding usually) Seal all duct work with proper HVAC tape to prevent leaks Replace your air filter Install an air exchanger The benefit of trying some of the above is that they also help when heating. I have a 3,200 square foot home (2,800 down and 400 up) that has a single 5-ton unit with three dampered zones and one "dump" zone. I live in South Texas and we have dozens of 100+ degree days every summer. My system is able to hold the house easily at 74 degrees in all zones even when it is 100 degrees outside. A few thoughts: First my home is relatively new (6 years) and has efficient windows, radiant barrier in the attic and is well insulated.

Our dump zone that runs any time one of the dampered zones calls for air is in the kitchen - always the hottest room in the house and this helps to keep the busiest area in the house cool. This also helps bleed off supply from the other three zones making sure the unit runs long enough to adequately cool and dehumidify the house. It is a simple but elegant solution to the challenge of too many zones running for short periods of time. I also have the zones set where the dampers don't close all the way - providing a bit of a "leak" to keep air moving in the entire house when one zone is running but the others aren't. I had the builder put in lots of return air. I have five ceiling mounted filter grills in the house to keep the unit well supplied with return air and to maximize filter effectiveness. The slower the air moves across the filter the quieter and more effective each return will be. This also helps to even out the temp in the house since it isn't all going to one large filter. I have three 12X12 filter grills, one 12X24 and one 20X30.

Finally - I have a Z type evaporator coil in the air handler rather than the standard V shaped one. This allows my 5 ton unit to maximize efficiency and increase the surface area of the large volume of air moving across the coils. I didn't even know this existed when we built six years ago - but it works great. Like I said - I easily keep our house at 74 even when it is 100 outside - and could keep it cooler - I just don't for budget reasons. Our unit seems to have no trouble at all with intense South Texas Heat. For your install - I would check to make sure your return air is properly sized in addition to all the insulation questions the earlier poster inquired about. My in-laws have a 2,100 square foot house built in 1978 with poor insullation and they have a five tone unit that barely keeps up. So the age and efficiency of the structure will play into how well a 5-ton unit can keep up with the heat. Many builders and HVAC specialists default to "add capacity" for their answer - because that is easier.