Learning Center » A/C & Heating » 6 Reasons Why Your Indoor AC Unit is Leaking6 Reasons Why Your Indoor AC Unit is Leaking“Let comfort be your guide,” says Tom Hutchinson of Hutchinson Plumbing Heating Cooling. Air conditioning is all about comfort, so the simplest way to evaluate your system is to ask: Am I comfortable?Air conditioning and HVAC units don’t last forever — 12 years is an average lifespan — and the moment they fail is usually when you need them the most. The good news is that not every system malfunction spells total doom. Many nuisances are so cheap and easy to fix, you’ll kick yourself for not doing them sooner.Possible cause: Often, the most likely culprit is the easiest to remedy: The thermostat isn’t set correctly, or power isn’t reaching the AC unit.The fix: Make sure that the thermostat is set to AC or “cool,” that the temperature setting is correct, and that the battery is fresh. Second, check the circuit breaker: It could simply be a tripped fuse. 

Cost: FreePossible cause: ”Airflow is paramount to comfort,” notes Hutchinson. If you aren’t comfortable, the problem usually can be traced to issues with airflow.The fix: Change the filter. (You should do this as part of regular HVAC maintenance anyway.) Depending on the quality of the filter, the amount of people living in the house, and if there are pets, the filter should be changed every 30-60 days. air conditioning window unit cleaningOutdoors, make sure there’s at least 24 inches of clearance on the sides and 5 feet on top of the unit. portable ac units for trucksAlso, check to make sure there are no obstructions to the home’s cold air returns and registers.samsung ac unitCost: $5 to $20, depending on the filter.Possible cause: A spike in operating costs typically signals inefficient operation.

After a dirty filter (warning sign #2), the most likely culprit is a choked condensing coil. Located within the outdoor unit, the coil has countless cooling fins — much like a car radiator — that can accumulate dust and debris. The fix: Call out a pro for a spring tune-up.Cost: $75 to $150Possible cause: Rattling, buzzing, or ticking? The good news is that the cause might be little more than a loose screw. The bad news is that it could be caused by a bum blower motor (indoors) or bent fan blade (outdoors).The fix: If you’re lucky, a simple tightening here and lubricating there will fix the problem. If not, you might require a new fan motor or fan blade.Cost: $75 to $150 for an inspection and tune-up; $150 to $750 for a new blower motor.Possible cause: Improper placement of the thermostat can wreak havoc on one’s comfort. The unit might be in direct sun, too close to a register, or near a hot oven. Also, a remodel might have you spending more time where the thermostat is not.

The fix: Relocate the thermostat.Cost: Free if you’re handy (and plan on reusing the same unit); up to $250 for a new programmable unit, plus another $90 for an electrician to install it.Possible cause: During normal operation, the system generates moisture in the form of condensate. That water collects in a pan and flows out a line either into a floor drain or condensate sump basin. An accumulation of water signals a blockage or disconnection of the tube.The fix: Inspect the tube for crimps, clogs, and disconnections. Also, if the water flows into a sump basin, ensure that the sump pump is in good working order.Cost: Free to clean out blockage; $20 to replace the tube; $40 to $110 for a new condensate sump pump.Possible cause: The refrigerant lines aren’t insulated.The fix: The outdoor unit is connected to the indoor system by two copper refrigerant lines, which should be covered with insulating sleeves. Make sure that they are. Also, the system may need its refrigerant re-charged.

Cost: $5 for insulating sleeves; up to $150 for a system re-charge.Possible cause: Burnt-out compressorThe fix: If the compressor fails, the unit won’t run. The only fix for this is a costly replacement of the equipment, which includes various small parts, new Freon, and labor.Cost: $600 to $1,900. It might be wise to replace your air conditioner if it’s more than eight years old, or if the estimated cost of repair is more than 50% of the cost of a new unit.Be sure to scroll down... there may be more than one question on this page! The two possible causes are 1) actual leak of rainwater from the outside or 2) condensation, which is a normal byproduct of the air conditioning process but should be dripping outside your home, not into your wall! Since the amount of condensation increases as the relative humidity outside increases, you are correct to wonder whether there is a connection between the humidity and the You can locate the source of a rain leak by making a visual examination of

any weatherstripping or caulking around the outside of the machine itself, or the sleeve that the "works" of the AC slides into. If you find any gaps or openings in the caulk, you can scrape out the old caulk and replace it. If there is a rain gutter over the AC unit, make sure that it is not blocked. If the gutter were to overflow you could get leakage around the AC or through the air vents in the frame even if the caulking seems OK due to the sheer volume As I mentioned, the condensate from the AC normally flows to the outside and exits the frame via weep holes in the frame (or pan). rubber plugs underneath the pan, designed to allow condensate flow.  have accessory kits that allow you to install a hose to redirect this condensate in dripping straight downward is not acceptable. If the condensate exit holes are blocked, water can build up in the bottom of the pan and potentially leak out where it shouldn't! You will have to examine

your unit to see where these weep holes are and if they are blocked. culprits are rust or paint chips that drop into the pan and block the weepThis could also account for the sudden dripping! AC units that slide into a preinstalled through-the-wall sleeve are oftenThe body (and tray) must be installed at a slight downward angle towards the outside. Were the unit to somehow change level, it is possible that the condensate would instead build up in the bottom of the frame and leakThe only way to know for sure is to put a level on the frame to see if it is level. If shifting has occurred you will need to modify the mounting (either inside or outside) to restore the downward tilt. To your other issue, the loss of cooling power is definitely attributable at least in part to the increased humidity. Some of the cooling energy is being used up drying up the moist air in your home. Dust on the cooling coils would also cause loss of cooling power, and would worsen with increased humidity as