Under no circumstances should you ever see water around the indoor unit. This is a sign that something is either dripping, leaking, or not draining. But don't panic, sometimes it can be a very minor problem. In the cooling mode, the indoor evaporator coil and the suction line (the large copper refrigerant line in black insulation) sweats. That is part of the purpose of the black insulation (armaflex), to keep the condensation from dripping. Sometimes if the insulation is missing or if it has open seems, it can cause dripping and obviously this is an easy fix. All armaflex joints should be butted-up tight and well taped. The evaporator produces a lot of condensation (water) during the summer, which runs down the coil into a pan, then out to the drain. The drain goes either into the ground, outside the house, or into a condensate pump. Then in turn, the pump takes the water either outside the house or into a plumbing drain. If the coil is dirty, then the water, instead of running down the coil, will hit the dirt, then drip onto the floor.

This is one reason why the coil should be cleaned annually, not to mention for efficiency reasons. Now if the coil is dirty, the water will mix with the dirt and the dirt will end up in the pan, and it will end up in the drain, the drain trap, and anywhere else it can cause a problem. The bottom of the trap is the most common source of a clog and it can be cleaned out with a long flexible cleaning brush and flushing water down the cleanout cap. Keep in mind, it doesn't take much dirt to clog a drain.can i plug a window ac unit into an extension cord And if your unit is in an attic or a finished basement, this can cause terrible damage. ac repairing guide pdfThis is another reason why it is important to always have a good, clean, properly sized air filter, along with having annual inspections.ac unit frozen over

Sometimes the indoor coil can actually ice-up. And when the ice eventually melts, it drips onto the floor. Like water, you should never see ice anywhere on your system during the cooling season. Indoor water problems aren't only during the summer. Many of today's high efficiency furnaces produce condensate as well. They also have to drain the water. There are many parts in the furnace that can leak, drip, or crack, causing a water leak. And along with the furnace comes the central humidifier, which can also be a source for leaks. Furnaces and humidifiers need to be cleaned and serviced annually. So keep your eyes open... If you see water, try to trace where it is coming from. Sometimes it's a simple fix - sometimes not. Blocked condensate pan, trap, or drain Indoor coil frozen due to malfunction, causing melting ice to drip Dirty or faulty evaporator coil Cracked condensate pan, bad gasket Broken fittings or pipe, unglued joints Dry-rotted, cracked or kinked furnace tubing or condensate parts

Humidifier over-filling or leaking Suction line missing armaflex (insulation) Drain line moved, not pitched downward Floor drain clogged with dirtPlease Select Username to appear on public areas of the site like community and recipe comments. Reduce your carbon footprint and utility bills at the same time. WaterFurnace geothermal systems use the free, renewable energy found in your own back yard to save up to 70% on heating, cooling, and hot water costs. Products For Your Home Comfort Systems/Indoor Air Quality Commercial Buildings, Schools, Churches Outside U.S. and Canada5 important ways you can get your central air conditioning into tiptop shape before the summer heat hits. On the first really hot day of summer, the last thing you want is to flip the switch on your central air conditioner only to find that it doesn’t work. When an air conditioner sits idle for months, collecting leaves and debris, a bit of maintenance is often needed to get it running properly.

If you don’t do this maintenance before summer arrives, you may end up waiting several hot days for a busy service pro—and paying top-of-the- season prices, to boot. Now is the time to get your A/C system working well. You can call an A/C pro to do this–but that may cost you $250 or more. Here you will learn how to replace the filters, clean the condenser, and otherwise get your AC unit into tiptop shape so that it’s ready to operate and cool your home efficiently. A central air-conditioning system employs two main components: a condenser unit, which is typically located outdoors, and an evaporator unit mounted on the air handler or furnace. Together these extract heat from room air through refrigeration technology. The air handler or furnace blower blows the resulting chilled and dehumidified air through ductwork to the home’s rooms. (For more about this, see How a Central Air Conditioner Works.) Repairs to a central air conditioner’s sealed refrigeration system are not a do-it-yourself job.

They should be handled by a professional HVAC service pro. You can, however, do certain cleaning and maintenance tasks yourself to ensure efficient operation and keep the need for professional service people to a minimum. Some of those tasks are detailed below. Before working on a central air conditioner, always turn off the power to the condenser at the service panel, as shown at right. The condenser also typically has a 240-volt weatherproof disconnect box located near the unit; this contains a lever, fuses, or a circuit breaker to shut off the condenser. Turn this off, too. (Note: The condenser contains a capacitor that stores an electrical charge and can be dangerous; allow about a half hour for the charge in the capacitor to dissipate. As an added precaution, avoid touching all electrical components. The furnace or air-handler cabinet often has a separate switch or a circuit breaker in the main electrical panel to control it. Shut this off, too.) This is the easiest and often most important step.

Clean or replace your furnace or air-handler filters twice a year or whenever they begin to look clogged with dust. If you don’t, air flow will be restricted, reducing efficiency, and you will recirculate dust into your home. For information on how to do this, see How to Replace Furnace & AC Filters. A central air conditioner’s condenser unit, typically located outdoors, is like a large fan in a metal box with sides that look like grilles. Ideally, it is protected through the winter by a condenser cover or tarp to prevent accumulation of debris inside it. Otherwise, it is likely to contain leaves, yard debris, and dirt—and you will need to clean it. A large fan inside the metal box moves air across radiator-style condenser coils. If debris has gotten inside the unit, dirt has probably clogged some of the coils, as shown at right. Anything that obstructs the flow of air will cut down the condenser’s efficiency, so these coils should be cleaned at the beginning of every cooling season if they are clogged.

To clean the coils, you’ll need to remove the side and top panels or protective grilles from the condenser unit, using a screwdriver or a nut driver, depending upon the type of fasteners that have been used. Be sure the power to the unit is turned off before you open up the condenser. Just unscrew the side panels and pull them away from the unit, and then lift off the top, which may be heavy due to the weight of the fan attached to it. Don’t tug any of the wires connected to the fan. Using a refrigerator coil brush or a soft brush on a vacuum, gently clean the coils from the outside of the unit. Be careful not to bend the delicate fins or damage the coils. If you do bend the fins, you can straighten them with a “fin comb” made for this purpose. After cleaning from the outside, vacuum the coils from the inside. To release stubborn debris, spray on a commercial coil cleaner from the inside, being careful not to spray the fan or electrical components. Sometimes it’s necessary to use a hose with a trigger-style nozzle to blast dirt and debris out of the coils from inside the unit with a strong but focused stream, but be very careful if you do this.

Take care not to bend the fins, flood the area, or spray water on electrical components or the fan motor so cover those parts with a plastic garbage bag. Also be aware that doing this can cause mud to block some of the areas between the fins, so you will need to be thorough. Scoop leaves and debris out of the base of the condenser and, if it has a drain, make sure the drain is clear. Use the vacuum and a rag to clean the blower’s fan blades. Then tighten any loose mounting bolts and, if the fan motor has oil ports, put a few drops of lightweight oil or spray WD-40 into the ports for lubrication. Mop up any excess water inside the unit, and then reassemble the condenser. Cut and remove any weeds or vines that may obstruct airflow through the condenser unit. The refrigerant tubes or pipes that run from the evaporator on the air handler to the condenser outside are typically covered with foam coolant line insulation to prevent them from losing energy. If you see areas where the insulation is frayed or missing, replace it.