I've got an old AC unit (probably 13+ years old) that came with the house that I bought. This summer I noticed some water damage on the drywall in the basement, so I cut the damaged drywall away, and found that the pipe coming from my AC unit to my furnace had a bunch of condensation on it that would collect and leak out onto the drywall. It seems like the spot it's dripping from is the lowest point in the pipe (left and right of this point both bend up) How safe is it to try and bend this pipe (which I'm assuming has freon in it?) so that it's more level? Is there some other kind of insulation I can put on this to prevent the condensation. Right now its the standard foam tube that you wrap around. drywall air-conditioning pipe condensation Did the problem just start? Is the condensation on the pipe frozen? If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant). If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional.

Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from forming and causing damage. That insulation may have started to fail. If so, replacing it is an easy enough job. I reccomend you turn off the system for a little while so the coolant line can warm up. Pull off as much of the old insulation as you can and wipe it down to remove any leftover condensation. Then replace it with the tightest-fitting and highest R-value insulation you can find.cost of an ac unit for a home When re-insulating, be sure to seal all of of the crevices. reviews of window ac unitsIf the pipe insulation tubes have an open slit in the side, make sure you seal the slits with insulated tape. what is the best central ac unit to buy

If any copper is exposed, it is a point for condensation to form. The coolant line should be completely covered from end to end. I reccomend that you don't bend the pipe. The coolant pressure is somewhat higher than your generic water supply, and if you damage/crack the line, it won't be pretty. Sounds like the insulation around the coolant pipe needs to be sealed better (if air can't get to it, you won't have any condensation). See this similar question: Corrosion on copper pipes due to insulation (with foam) I had the exact same thing happen. In the attic rats had eaten away the rubber insulation. For some reason they love it. Water came through the ceiling into one of the bedrooms. An AC guy came out and said to replace the old insulation with new insulation from Lowes or Home Depot. Total cost of the insulation: $15.Browse other questions tagged drywall air-conditioning pipe condensation or ask your own question.Need more motivation to check out your air conditioner and properly insulate it?

In New York City, the costs of fuel lost through gaps around air conditioners is sometimes as much as the cost of the building's entire cooling bill. The main culprit in a recent report by the Urban Green Council is the window-mounted, usually self-installed air conditioner. When improperly seated, or lacking insulation around every potential opening, the average air conditioner leaves something akin to a fist-sized hole in your wall, letting both heating and cooling escape. The best move, the report suggests, is removing your air conditioner as soon as possible at the end of the hot season. If you're looking to start fresh with your own window-mount installation, Popular Mechanics' guide to proper mounting and insulation is a great place to start. How to Install a Window Air Conditioner [Popular Mechanics] These are free-standing, easy to move air conditioners that you can move from room to room. Because they need to vent hot air somewhere else, portable air conditioners are generally set up in windows and come with their own window kit.

These are ideal for people who live in small spaces and/or only use air conditioning sporadically. They can be the most cost-efficient option since they only cool off one particular area instead of an entire home space. Some options even work double-duty by including heat so you can use it year-round. Traditionally found in college apartments and dorm rooms, today’s window air conditioners are energy efficient, quiet and overall easy on the eyes. They can be installed in any room with a window that leads to the outside and works by filtering hot air from inside outside through the window. Window air conditioners tend to feature a fan option, heater and programmable timer. They are an efficient and economical option for small spaces. Wall air conditioners look similar to window units with the exception that they are mounted on an outdoor wall and therefore filter hot air outside through the wall instead of a window. They tend to be more energy efficient than window units because they create an airtight seal that keeps hot air outside.

One main difference is that these units are actually built into the wall, whereas window units can be installed and taken down. They are therefore a more permanent option than window units. Unlike portable, window or through the wall units, the ductless mini-split model is not an actual unit that can be installed in one room or another. They are capable of cooling more than one room at a time, similar to central units, but they don’t require ductwork. They are made up of two main parts: a large condenser unit that needs to be installed outside and one (or more) compact blower units that can be mounted on the wall or ceiling. These mounted units are placed strategically inside the rooms or zones you want and can be controlled separately, so you can only cool the spaces you are using to save energy costs. Central air conditioning units are popular for homeowners who need to cool several rooms at the same time. These systems are fully ducted, making them a more expensive option than portable or split units but can be the best choice overall for larger homes.