Do window air conditioners need Freon?There is a type of Freon referred to as R-22 or HCFC-22, and it was most common in air conditioner window units prior to 2010. How do you add Freon to a window air conditioner? If there is any doubt as to what type of refrigerant is being used in a window air conditioning unit, the nameplate on the unit should be checked. The type of refrigerant used in the unit should be prominently displayed. A homeowner should never try to purchase or replace Freon on their own, as a special license is required to even handle the refrigerant. If an air conditioner is not cooling as well as it once was, it may need Freon. Some signs of this include the air conditioner being turned up to the highe... What type of refrigerant is used in air conditioners? The most commonly used refrigerant in air conditioners is R-22, or Freon, as of 2015. Freon is being phased out from use due to the harmful effects on the ... What is the cost difference between central air and window air conditioners?

As of 2015, window air conditioners generally cost under $1,000, typically ranging between $200 and $500. By contrast, central air conditioner installation... How do you repair a swamp cooler yourself? How much does a Hunter 44860 thermostat cost?how much pressure in ac unit Which components are used in a heat pump?ac unit check How often should a furnace be maintained and serviced?what is the best residential ac unit What is a furnace heating fan? What are wiring codes for a thermostat? Frigidaire FAA055P7A Compact Small-Room Air Conditioner with Remote Control 15.5 x 18.5 x 12.5 inches #1,414,343 in Home and Kitchen (See Top 100 in Home and Kitchen) #348 in Home & Kitchen > Heating, Cooling & Air Quality > Air Conditioners & Accessories > Air Conditioners > Window

This Product Is ENERGY STAR® Qualified See all 129 customer reviews See all 129 customer reviews (newest first) It broke soon after I bought it and Frigidaire would not honor its warranty because I had bought it on line, even though their own repairman said it couldn't be fixed. I have had this air conditioner for quite some time now and forgot to give a review. I have a large studio with big ceiling fans and this product is more than capable of keeping my... I bought this in 2009 after moving to a house without central air. I put it in my living room window and use fans to move the air to other rooms. Year by year, no matter where you live, summer is more hot than ever. This air conditioner is the best. love it so much. i bought this years ago and i'm just now writing reviews for all of my purchases. runs just as good as the day i bought it. would buy again for sure. This is a great little room a/c. We use it in our bedroom and it keeps the room very comfortable.

It is great for directionally aiming the air. I would buy it again. I think I've had this unit for 2 years now, and it's wonderful! I'm using it right now as I type this! It's great for rooms up to 15' x 15', in my opinion. great while it worked but died after 2 and 1 month of light duty service as I only used it to keep the humidity down in my utility room This air conditioner exceeded my expectations. It is quiet and cools my downstairs which has 2 bedrooms, kitchen, dining room, living room and bath.2012 was a hot one. We’ve had at least 31 days over 90F, something which hasn’t happened since 1988, and July 2012 was the second warmest July on record in the Twin Cities. This is a departure from the norm; for example the average number of 90F days is 13 – we almost tripled it this year.  The 1930’s homes in our neighborhood weren’t built with AC, and retrofitting ductwork is tough.  And although I obsess over our energy use like some people obsess over Kim Kardashian, we do have to be able to function on those sweltering days.  

Last year we struggled through the hot week with a single 8,000 BTU window unit upstairs, which was cumbersome, noisy, ineffective, and inefficient. This year we decided to give in and install something more efficient, permanent, attractive, and convenient – a Fujitsu ductless mini-split AC (our model is here). These units come in various configurations, but simple ones like ours have an outdoor compressor/condenser similar to central AC and a single indoor air handler that hangs on the wall.  Refrigerant, power, and control lines run back to the outdoor unit.  Because it’s a matched set, and because there are no ducts to blow through a hot attic and leak air, they can be very efficient – ours is 25 SEER, 13.8 EER for cooling.  For comparison, Energy Star standards for central AC require >=14 SEER/ >=11 EER. We weren’t going for perfect comfort, just something to keep it tolerable, and keep the upstairs cooler at night for sleeping.  One consideration with these units is that they are a single point of conditioning, and distribution can be an issue*. 

We installed only one unit at the top of the stairs, figuring some cold air could fall and hot air could rise.  If we’d been going for more consistent whole-house comfort, at least one more head would have made sense, and we may still do that in the future. In the end, we selected a single 12,000BTU (1 ton) unit after doing a whole-house heat gain analysis to determine the necessary cooling capacity.  I contacted the fine folks at The Neighborhood Energy Connection in Saint Paul to do the analysis. Overall, it’s been pretty good.  We put it in just before a perfect storm of hot:  103F days, both sides of the family visiting, and a birthday requiring use of the oven to bake a cake.  That was a struggle, but it kept things reasonable – around 80F downstairs – and much drier, which makes a huge difference.  Distribution was a bit of an issue; it’s hard to cool a hot kitchen with a unit on the 2nd floor. Here might be a more representative day: Sept 11 2012 had a high of 93F. 

We closed the house and set the unit to 74F at about 11:00AM, and turned it back off around 7pm.  The bigger spikes are likely the espresso machine.  Stuff later in the evening is cooking & running the dishwasher. The graph shows indoor & outdoor temperatures, solar PV power production, and household power use.  Outdoor temp peaked at 93F at 4pm, and indoor temps on the first floor peaked at about 76.5F around 1pm.  On the energy side, we used 13kWh and produced about 13.5kWh.  If we’d anticipated a string of hot days, we would have just left it on 24/7 to keep things cool and dried out. In July 2011, with the window unit struggling to keep up, we used 33kWh-38kWh per day for the hot days.  In July 2012, with the mini-split running 24/7 on the hottest days, we used between 19kWh and 28kWh per day – quite an improvement. The unit can also work in reverse, as an air-source heat pump, with an HSPF of 12.0, meaning for every BTU watt-hour it consumes, it moves 12 BTUs of heat into the house. 

Converted to Coefficient of Performance, this indicates that it transfers about 3.5 units of energy into the house for every unit of energy it consumes – or 3.5x more efficient than a resistance space heater.  It maintains rated heating capacity down to 20F outside, and continues to function even in -5F weather. I haven’t yet decided if we’ll use it much for heating, but it might make sense in the “shoulder seasons” when our 83 AFUE boiler would be operating infrequently and at lower efficiency.  Because these electric units can heat and cool so efficiently, they are often used in the design of well-insulated net-zero or near-net-zero homes with PV installed. Overall I’m pleased with this thing.  It’s quiet, efficient, attractive, and made the hottest weeks quite tolerable.  It helps that we’ve done air-sealing and insulation of our home, so the single unit is better able to meet our cooling load.  I may experiment with sun control screens on the south windows next year to cut down on solar heat gain.