One Western Avenue Heating & Air Conditioning In compliance with Massachusetts regulations, heat is available from September 15 through June 15 each year, at a minimum temperature of 68°F between 7:00 AM and 11:00 PM and a minimum temperature of 64°F at all other hours. To improve the thermal comfort level in your apartment in winter, please consider the following: Open curtains and shades to direct sunlight during the day, but close them when the sun has passed to retain the heat collected. Keep windows closed to avoid cold drafts. Make sure that furniture and other items are not blocking heat vents, radiators, registers, etc. Arrange large furniture against outside walls to provide insulation against infiltration of cold air, unless your heat source is located there. Where thermostats are accessible, do not set the temperature in your apartment below 60°F during the winter months for any period while absent from the premises. If heat is turned off or set too low, pipes may freeze, potentially causing damage to the heating system and in the apartment.

Please contact the Property Management Office with any heat concerns. Heating and Air Conditioning Unit A single unit provides both heat and air conditioning. Heat is available from September 15–June 15 and A /C is available from May 15–October 31, depending on the outside air temperature. Central air conditioning will not function when the outside temperature drops below 60°F. Please contact the Property Management Office if you have questions about the controls. Note: For best overall efficiency, turn A/C off before leaving your home. proper size of ac unitIt takes a minimal amount of time for an apartment to cool down with the newer A/C systems available.home ac repair do it yourself 78 posts, read 297,876 timesoutside ac unit turns off

2,045 posts, read 2,982,306 times 851 posts, read 1,942,962 times Originally Posted by margeaa Ours is like this, and it does become tricky. It seems no matter what the season, our downstairs is ALWAYS significantly colder than the upstairs. We have tried a lot of different things, such as closing the downstairs vents in the summer to try to force the cooler air upstairs, but have been met with little success. Keeping the shades open in the winter to make use of light heat is somewhat helpful as well. If you get any other suggestions, please share! 14,150 posts, read 26,441,863 times 505 posts, read 1,856,353 times 7,877 posts, read 10,139,390 times 19 posts, read 98,578 times No need for two separate units, that is a waste of money and energy. Convert your home to dual zone by installing a zoning system. Customized Whole Home Comfort with Arzel Zoning This type of system automatically opens and closes the ducts to the upstairs and downstairs accordingly.

Any qualified HVAC technician can do this. Mine costs ~3K, and has done wonders. At least 30% reduction in PSEG bills, and more importantly, much more comfortable setting the temps appropriately on both floors! Originally Posted by marc777will check their website. Sounds like the perfect system except your one system runs full time to heat/cool both upstairs and downstairs. With the correct size two system both are smaller units than one single unit plus if you have a failure in one unit you still have partial heating or cooling. Of course if you live in a small house 1,000-1,500 sf maybe one system is OK 1,186 posts, read 2,784,632 times This unit should go in a shaded location outside the house where it can have at least 4 inches of clearance behind it and 20 inches of clearance above it and in front of it. The 119-pound unit can be mounted on brackets fastened to the wall, as shown, or bolted to concrete blocks resting on the ground. Locate the Air Handler

It mounts on an exterior wall no more than 33 feet from the outdoor unit, at least 2⅛ inches below the ceiling and 3 feet from a TV. First, the mounting plate is screwed to the studs, as shown. At the plate's lower-right corner, the installer drills through the wall with a 3-inch hole saw. Outside, a connecting hole is drilled ¼ inch below the one inside. Mount the Air Handler With the cover off, the control wire, refrigerant lines, and condensate drain hose are attached to the unit and taped together, and a protective sleeve is fitted into the hole in the wall. The unit is hoisted up without its fins being touched, and the taped parts are fed through the sleeve, as shown. The unit then mounts to the plate. Set Up the Condenser The outdoor unit is connected to the control wire from the indoor unit and to a jacketed power cable leading to the breaker panel. Then the ends of the refrigerant lines are fastened to the condenser with flare nuts, as shown. Flare nuts are also used to join these lines to the ones on the indoor unit.

A plastic channel screwed to the siding hides the lines, condensate hose, and control wire. After the hose is checked to make sure it drains freely, the end of the hole sleeve is sealed with silicone to prevent water infiltration. Then the channel is capped, as shown. A gauge manifold and a vacuum pump are hooked up to the refrigerant lines to detect leaks and dry the lines as refrigerant is pumped into them. The last step is to put the cover on the air handler, as shown. The system is then ready to heat and cool.High Efficiency Heat Pumps More than 20,000 high efficiency ductless heat pumps have been installed in Maine homes and businesses in the past 3 years. Word is spreading quickly about how this exciting new technology is able to extract heat from outdoor air (even when it is very cold) and deliver heat energy into homes. There are over 400 Registered Vendors actively installing units around the state who are familiar with the highest performing models as well as our rebate process.

Heat pumps can also be part of larger home energy upgrades that qualify for up to $5,000 in incentives. Efficiency Maine offers residential rebates through the Home Energy Savings Program on the installation of eligible high efficiency heat pumps. Click here for Eligibility Criteria and Units. Other important forms include the HESP Rebate Claim Form and the Heat Pump Installation Checklist which needs to be submitted with the claim form and a paid invoice. $500 rebates are available toward installation of ductless heat pumps that provide a single or first zone of heating in your home. An additional rebate of $250 is available for ductless heat pump installations that provide a second zone of heating in your home. The combination of these rebates can be received with either multiple single indoor unit systems or with a single larger system installed with multiple indoor blower units and completed on or after 9/14/16. Heat pump rebates require heat pumps that meet minimum efficiency standards and are installed by a Registered Vendor.

Click on the video below to see a Ductless Heat Pump Case Study in Presque Isle: Registered Heat Pump Installers – Click here to find some installers in your area that sell heat pumps. Get incentives and financing for energy upgrades – Click here to find out about loans and incentives for projects that include energy assessments, air sealing, insulation, heat pumps and more. Cost of Heating Comparison Calculator – Click here to find out how much you could save by using heat pumps. Find more information about this exciting technology below: Long used for cooling in warm climates, heat pumps are now one of the fastest growing technologies for ultra-efficient heating in cold climates. Rather than generate heat from combustion or electric resistance, heat pumps extract heat from outside air or the ground and deliver it indoors as needed. This process is a more cost-effective way to heat than most conventional systems. In the summer, heat pumps can reverse and work as air conditioners, cooling indoors and rejecting heat outside.

Watch this video to learn more about heat pumps. Heat pumps generally fall into two categories: Air-source heat pumps draw heat from an outdoor unit and deliver it indoors. In the summer, they reverse and act as high-efficiency air conditioners. A. Ductless heat pumps have one outdoor unit connected to one or more indoor units with small copper lines. These are the most efficient air-source systems and are often installed in homes and offices to supplement existing systems, usually in the most frequently used rooms like family rooms or bedrooms. Over the course of a typical Maine winter, these units can deliver more than three units of heat for every unit of electricity used. B. Ducted heat pumps have an outdoor unit connected to a building’s ductwork. Like ductless heat pumps, ducted heat pumps can both heat and cool buildings. Ground-source heat pumps or “geothermal” heat pumps draw heat from the soil or groundwater and transfer it to a ducted air distribution system or radiators.

Ground-source heat pumps are typically more efficient and more expensive than air-source heat pumps. Low-cost heat – The cost of heating with a heat pump is similar to heating with natural gas or wood. This is typically half the cost of heating with oil, kerosene, electric baseboard or propane. Click here to compare heating costs of different heating systems. Low-cost air conditioning – Today’s best heat pumps are twice as efficient as typical air conditioners. Comfort – With advances in controls, heat pumps can maintain very constant temperatures. Safety – Because heat pumps are electrically powered, there is no risk of combustion gas leaks. Air quality – Heat pumps filter air as they heat/cool/dehumidify it. Cold temperature performance – As outdoor temperatures drop, so does the efficiency of an air-source heat pump. For example, a unit that delivers four units of heat for every unit of electricity at 50°F, may only deliver two units of heat for every unit of electricity at temperatures below zero.