Sign up ( $. $418.57 Sold & Shipped by Living Direct Inc (1 $. $599.99 See details | Sign up ( $649.99 $649.99Sign up (4 $. $378.57 Sold & Shipped by Kedyrolo llc ( See details | Sign up ( $389.99 $389.99Sign up (3 $429.99 $429.99Sign up (2 $. $579.99 See details | Sign up (1 See details | Sign up ( $. $342.49 Sold & Shipped by Kedyrolo llc $. LG LW1215ER 12,000 BTU 115V Slide In-Out Chassis Air Conditioner with Remote Control Sold & Shipped by Kedyrolo llc shipping store pickup $. $550.69 LG LW1216HR 12,000 BTU 230V Window-Mounted Air Conditioner with 11,200 BTU Supplemental Heat Function shipping store pickup Sold & Shipped by Kedyrolo llc ( Sold & Shipped by OJ Commerce LLC ( Sold & Shipped by Air and Water, Inc. $. Comfort-Aire REG-123 12,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner & Heater Sold & Shipped by Air and Water, Inc. Sold & Shipped by Air and Water, Inc. $. Comfort-Aire RAH-123G 12,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner & Heater Sold & Shipped by Air and Water, Inc. Sold & Shipped by Ron's Home and Hardware $.

Midea America Corp/Import MWDUK-12CRN1-BCK2 Air Conditioner, With Remote, Energy Star Rated, 12,000 BTUs Sold & Shipped by Ron's Home and Hardware Sold & Shipped by Air and Water, Inc. $. wine room ac unitsFriedrich EP12G33B 12,000 BTU Chill Series Room Air Conditioner w/ Electric Heat Sold & Shipped by Air and Water, Inc. Sold & Shipped by VirVentures $. do ac units run on gas12,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner, White Sold & Shipped by VirVentures $. small air conditioning and heating unitMidea America Corp/Import MWDUJ2-12ERN1-MCJ9 Air Conditioner, Cool & Heat, With Remote, 12,000/11,000 BTUs Sold & Shipped by Ron's Home and HardwareTilt your window unit slightly lower outside to aid draining. Not only does air conditioning lower the temperature inside your home no matter how hot the day, but it also removes humidity from the air.

As the cold refrigerant inside your window air conditioner circulates through the evaporator (an indoor cooling coil) the warm air inside your home creates condensation -- like steam on a bathroom window during a shower. Newer units are designed to hold much of this water in the pan, where the fan slings it across the condenser (the outdoor coil) to lower the unit's temperature and increase its efficiency. Some units drain continuously, however. To help either drain better, take whichever measures you find necessary. Unplug the window air conditioner, and ensure it is stable. Have an assistant help you during your work; she can steady the air conditioner and help remove it from the window if it becomes necessary. Check the window unit to determine if it's level or slanted toward the ground outside. To aid proper drainage, the rear of the unit should drop about an inch lower than the front. "Eyeball" the air conditioner, working from outside; if it's slanted enough, it should appear obvious.

If it's difficult to tell, lay a carpenter's level across the top. Drop the rear of the unit lower than the front to increase the unit's angle and encourage good drainage. Even newer units that don't drain continuously generally have an overflow drain in case the water level gets too high. To lower the unit's rear, consider the installation method. If the unit sits unsupported in the window, it's generally a matter of pulling it slightly forward to allow the rear to drop. Braces of various kinds may need to be cut and reattached or otherwise lowered to allow the rear to drop. Find the drain hole or plug designed to expel excess water. On constantly draining units (usually older or very large units) the hole is generally underneath the exterior portion of the unit and may be very small. Window air conditioners designed to retain water may have a hole on the side instead, so when the water reaches a given level it drains away. Alternatively, you may find a cap underneath the unit that allows you to pour off water before recapping.

Unplug the drain hole if you see or suspect it's clogged at or near the entrance. Poke a long, thin wire or even a baby bottle nipple cleaner through the hole, and work it back and forth like you're brushing your teeth. Often this is enough to encourage the water to drain. Pull the unit from the window, remove the outer casing if necessary and set the unit on a clean surface. Lay a thick cloth over the switches and fan motor, and tilt the air conditioner slightly to encourage water to flow away from these electrical parts. Spray the unit, using a low-pressure stream, directing the flow from the inside of the coils out to remove excess dirt and debris. Remove the base pan, into which the condensation drains, to clean the pan or the internal drain system. Unscrew or pull to unclip the base pan (sometimes called a drip tray) from the bottom of the unit. Scrub with a rag and water from the hose. Alternatively, replace the tray with a new one; if it's rusted or extremely damaged, it may be preventing proper drainage.

Look for small tubes -- typically two -- running from the front pan, under the evaporator, to the rear where it releases condensation into the base pan. Run a small brush or wire through these hoses with a swabbing, scrubbing motion to work free any clogs. Enlarge or add another weep hole in the base pan only if one already exists or the product literature indicates it is appropriate. With the pan removed, use a drill and small bit to bore a hole toward the outermost edge of the pan or enlarge an existing hole. Reassemble the air conditioner, attaching the base pan first and following with the casing as appropriate. Reinstall in the window, allowing the proper tilt, and secure. Avoid running the air for a day or two to ensure everything is dry. As of Friday, it's officially fall. The box in your window that brought much-needed coolness during the summer is now preventing you from breathing that lovely autumn air (and will soon freeze your face off). Let's take it out. This is nothing revolutionary, but every year around this time, I start getting calls from friends who ask me to help them remove their window air-conditioners.

I don't know why I became the go-to guy for this (strong like bull?), but it's probably because I've done it a bunch of times and I haven't killed anybody yet. I am by no means a professional HVAC guy, but this is the technique I've used for years to keep me, my A/C unit, and my neighbors safe.DISCLAIMER: These things are heavy and could very literally kill someone. Many of them weigh well over fifty pounds, and they feel even heavier because they are big and awkward. Whenever possible, ask a friend/spouse/neighbor to help you do this. Don't be macho about this, especially if you have a history of back/knee/shoulder/anything injuries. If you don't have anyone to help you, consider calling in a professional HVAC person. All of the steps I show here work better with two people. If you have absolutely no other choice other than to do it alone and you are physically capable of doing it safely, then this guide shows you how. Prep: If possible, wait until it hasn't rained for a few days.

These suckers can fill up with water, which makes things a lot messier. You'll need a screwgun, or at very least a screwdriver and a strong wrist. You'll also want some gloves, long sleeves, and boots to protect your toes.Step 1: Turn off the power. Duh.Step 2: Unplug the unit from the wall. Step 3: Remove the front panel if you can. It may pop off at a critical moment when you're trying to move the A/C and get in the way. Just set it aside for now.Step 4: Lay a grungy towel out on the floor where you plan on placing the A/C once removed. Even if it hasn't rained in days it's entirely possible that there is some nasty water in there, just waiting to slosh out. Do yourself and your floors a favor and sacrifice a towel or two. Step 5: Pull the cord to the floor and step on it firmly to take the slack out. Do not take your foot off that cord. Now, if the A/C falls, standing on the cord is not going to help anything. However, if it starts to teeter, this may help it tip past the point of no return.

I can't emphasize enough, though, that this isn't to be depended on. It's just to give a little bit of extra support.Step 6: Look out the window below you and check that there is nobody down there. If you have downstairs neighbors, warn them ahead of time so nobody walk out. If you have a friend who can stand down there and keep passersby away, all the better. Whatever you do, do not skip this step. If you drop this thing on a kid, it will kill him or her, and you will be convicted of manslaughter. Step 7: Unscrew the screw(s) on one side of the window frame. Do not do both yet, and do not attempt to raise the window. Step 8: Shove the unit over toward the side that is still screwed in. If it has an accordioning side (on the unscrewed side), fold that into the unit. There should now be a gap big enough to get your hand through.Step 9: Reach your hand though the gap on the side and grab onto the A/C in a very stable place. If you can reach all the way to the back of the unit and hold on there, all the better.

You need a place you can grab so you can stop it from tipping. Once you have a good grip, hold on for dear life and do not let go. Seriously.Step 10: With that one hand still in place and never moving for any reason, use your other hand to unscrew the screw(s) on the other side. Once you've done that it's just your hand and the window holding this thing up, and the window is no longer reliable. Step 11: The is the most critical part. Holding on to the back of the A/C with your hand that's on the other side of the window, flex that arm to give it some extra pull/lift. With your free hand, open the window. The A/C will want to drop (as you can see in the video). Use that one arm for all it's worth, and as soon as the window is open grab on with your free hand and move slide the A/C back into your house until it's well balanced on the sill. Still, do not let go with that hand!Step 12: Readjust your feet (you can stop standing on that cord now), bend from you knees, and move the A/C unit onto the awaiting towel.