For 125 consecutive and productive years, Honeywell has set the standard exceptionally high with regards to its expansive series of Heating and Cooling options. Honeywell Heaters employ the latest in technological advances in creating the ideal heater that's renowned for its efficiency and portability. Versatility and an abundance of options can readily be observed with Honeywell's extensive selection of Fans and Air Circulators that display all of the performance and versatility that one may expect from a superior brand. In an effort to save you a substantial sum on your energy bill while servicing as flexiblecooling options, Honeywell Air Coolers and Portable Air Conditioners offer wonderful value and can beutilized in both indoor and outdoor settings. Portable Air Conditioners carry the additional bonus of acting as full-fledged Dehumidifiers. Ceiling Fans designed by the Honeywell brand represent a reliable and altogether intuitive approach to cooling off your surroundings. Lastly, Honeywell Thermostats come in a robust catalogue that highlights accessibility, functionality and precision.

Featuring a number of intuitively designed Thermostats that offer Programmable and Non-Programmable units, Honeywell thermostats come in Digital, Wi-FI Enabled, Touch-Screen, Individual Day Selection, Manual and various other accommodating models that cater to your specific requirements. A collection of Thermostat Guards have also been included to bolster security and prevent tampering. room air conditioner portable unitWhen it comes to providing its consumers with a robust selection of options to peruse, Honeywell offers a surplus of Heating and Cooling products that can be utilized within and outside the home.new ac furnace unitElectric baseboard units heat each room without a central furnace or boiler. ac units in texasAccording to Energy Star, up to half of all the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling.

Choosing an energy efficient heating system can help lower utility bills and reduce your family's impact on the environment. Electric baseboard heaters found in many older homes may appear efficient at first glance, but these units actually serve as one of the most expensive and inefficient heating options for the average homeowner. Efficiency and Clean Energy Like other forms of electric resistance heating, electric baseboard heaters offer 100 percent efficiency. That means 100 percent of the electricity consumed by these heaters is used to produce heat. While this makes it seem like baseboard heating is an efficient and clean method of heating the home, it's important to understand where this electricity comes from. Most electricity in the U.S. is generated using coal or gas, a process which is inefficient and contributes to environmental pollution. The process of transforming these fossil fuels into electricity and transporting this energy to the home is only about 30 percent efficient, reports the U.S. Department of Energy.

For a cleaner source of energy, consider a furnace that burns natural gas or oil. Many of these units offer efficiency ratings of 78 to 95 percent, making them much cleaner than baseboard heating. If you must use electricity for heating, the U.S. DOE recommends heat pumps as the most efficient means of heating in a mild climate zone, such as California. Heat pumps cut electricity use by 30 to 40 percent compared to electric baseboard heaters, reports the DOE. Cost Electric baseboard heaters are relatively cheap and easy to install. At the time of publication, these units cost a few hundred dollars, or less, and eliminate the need for expensive duct networks throughout the home, making them much more affordable than furnaces or heat pumps in terms of upfront costs. When it comes to operating costs, however, baseboard heating represents one of the most expensive home heating options. As of March 2013, it costs $34.57 to generate one million BTUs of heat using electric baseboard heating, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration.

This same million BTUs costs $14.39 using an electric heat pump, or $7.33 via a standard gas furnace. Considerations If you only need to heat one or two rooms in your home, electric baseboard heaters could serve as a cleaner and cheaper means of heating than whole-house heating systems. While a standard furnace or boiler heats both occupied and unoccupied spaces, electric baseboard heaters represent a form of zonal heating, where a thermostat controls the heat in each room independently. The U.S. DOE reports that zonal heating can produce energy savings of 20 percent over whole-house heating when you only need to heat the rooms you're in. If alternate heating fuels, such as natural gas, are available, a vented gas-powered space heater used in occupied spaces may cost less and use less energy than an electric baseboard heater. While these space heaters cost less to operate than baseboard heaters, the cost of buying and installing these systems is much greater than the cost of a new baseboard heater.

Rebates and Incentives Many energy providers and municipalities offer financial incentives to encourage homeowners to replace inefficient systems such as electric baseboard heating with cleaner, more efficient heating systems. The City of San Francisco, PG&E; and other California organizations provide low-cost loans, rebates, discounts and tax incentives to help offset the cost of energy efficient upgrades. References U.S. Energy Information Administration: Heating Fuel Comparison CalculatorU.S. Department of Energy: Electric Resistance HeatingU.S. Department of Energy: Tips -- Heat PumpsAlpine Home Air: Buying and Installing a Home Heating SystemEnergy Star: Heat and Cool Efficiently Photo Credits Ryan McVay/Lifesize/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionHeating and cooling your attic can be a challenge. In summer, intense sunlight cooks the large expanse of the roof over your head; in winter, drafts from wind and cold suck the cozy out of your new attic remodel. Adequately insulating your remodel and extending your HVAC system are the keys to heating and cooling it year-round.

There are many types of attic insulation to install between roof rafters — the most important factor in heating and cooling the attic. Choose the highest possible R-value (a material’s ability to block heat moving through it), and install it correctly to prevent heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. Also leave a couple of inches between insulation and rafters to allow airflow from soffit vents to roof vents.Fiberglass batts: Six-inch-thick, high-density fiberglass batt insulation with an R-value of 21 (40 cents/sq. ft.) fits snugly in most 2x8 rafter space but also leaves a couple of inches of airspace. In extreme climates, add more insulation to your attic ceiling by increasing the depth of each rafter by nailing 2x2s on the bottom edges of the rafters. The added depth can accommodate R-30 (43 cents/sq.ft.), 8.5-inch-thick high-density fiberglass batt insulation.Rigid foam: One way to bump up the R-value of your batts is to attach 1-inch-thick sheets of rigid foam to the rafters over fiberglass insulation, then drywall over it.

That combination adds an R-value of about R-6. Expect to pay about $1.30/sq.ft.  Of course, adding depth to your rafters lowers the ceiling, so make sure your new ceiling height doesn’t violate code restrictions for attic ceilings—typically 7 feet 6 inches. Spray foam: A third heating and cooling option is to have professionals spray foam into the area between the rafters. The R-value of spray foam is approximately twice that of fiberglass of similar thickness. Prices for spray foam installation vary widely by market—expect to pay a minimum of $3/sq.ft.Be sure to insulate interior walls between the living area and any unused portion of the attic, such as the space behind knee walls. Also, plug any heating or cooling escape routes at the ends of gables or around existing windows.Extending heating and cooling systemsInsulation keeps heating and cooling IN your new attic space, but your HVAC system delivers the heat and cool TO the space. Consult with an HVAC professional to determine if your existing system has the capacity to handle the extra load.