All our local heating and cooling contractors are trusted experts with proven track records. If you need any type of heating or cooling maintenance, service, or repair, we can do it. Heating and Air Conditioning Troubleshooting Guide Air Conditioning Checklist | Gas Furnace Checklist | Simple solutions to attempt before calling your HVAC contractor If you experience any trouble with your heating and cooling products or system, you may always call your local heating and cooling company for help and service. But here are a few simple solutions you can attempt before calling your local HVAC company to your home for a service visit. Air Conditioning Equipment Checklist Check to make sure that your thermostat is set in the "cool" position. Ensure that your outdoor air conditioning (condensing unit) is running:Are they in the "On" position? Check the outdoor unit "disconnect switch" to make sure it is in the "ON" position. The disconnect switch is located near the outdoor unit.

(Typically a grey 8" wide x 16" high x 4" deep box mounted to the wall). Ensure that the blower motor in your furnace is running. (If the thermostat is in the "cool" position, the furnace blower should be running.) If not, check to make sure the on / off switch at the furnace is in the "ON" position Be sure that you have changed your filter in the furnace recently. Your filter should be changed every month. Check all supply air registers to make sure they are open and blowing air. (The return air grills are normally located on your walls and are wide and flat). Gas Furnace Equipment Checklist (back to top) Check to make sure that your thermostat is set in the "heat" position Make sure that the temperature setting on the thermostat is set above (or higher than) the indoor temperature showing on the thermostat. (This tells your heating system that it should provide heat!) Ensure that there is power to the furnace: Try turning the fan to "ON" using the fan switch on the thermostat to test for power to furnace.

Check the circuit breakers at the electrical panel to make sure they are in the "On" position. Check the SSU switch (it looks like a light switch on a gray box located at the furnace) to be sure it is in the "ON" position Replace the furnace filter if needed. All 1-inch thick furnace filters should be replaced monthly. Purolator 2-inch thick, and other high-capacity pleated filters can most likely be changed every other month or just 6 times per year.ac units on payments(The return air grilles are normally located on your walls and are wide and flat).how to recharge ac unit at home If these simple solutions do not solve your problem, contact your local HVAC dealer for service. ac unit keeps starting and stopping

Be sure to have your model number handy.Pre-Service Checklist (back to top)Before your expert dealer arrives at your home to service your Carrier heating and cooling system, take a moment to make sure you're prepared for the appointment. That way, you can ensure your expert dealer has all of the information he or she needs, and can get directly to work getting your Carrier system into top-performing condition.Here are a few things to do in preparation for your service appointment: Know where all of the units in your heating and cooling system are located. Perform basic troubleshooting tactics. Check your air filter. A dirty air filter is a common cause of problems. Write down the model numbers of all your Carrier products. Be ready to explain clearly what symptoms or problems you've had. Know how long ago your problem began. Make sure the system is accessible by the dealer. If there is something blocking any of your products, please remove it. If your system's products are in an attic or crawl space, please make it easily accessible.

Lock pets in a separate room so they don't get in the way or get hurt. Make sure there's an adult (18 or over) home to legally allow entry to your home. Be prepared to answer the phone. Many technicians will call to confirm the appointment on their way. If you rent your home, make sure you have your landlord's permission to have your system serviced. If your heat pump or air conditioner is frozen, shut it off before the technician arrives so it's thawed and ready for service. Make available a file containing information on all prior services performed on your system. John Ray & Sons Northeast Heating & Cooling Request for Free HVAC Estimate Join Our Email List See More Posts »« [Appliances] Dishwasher water line help • need some concrete slab information » TXAG@108.95.150.xCould my AC unit not be working properly  I am wondering if one of my AC units is not functioning properly. I had recently installed a new thermostat (in a different post/topic in the forum) and after initially installing, it seemed that it was taking a long time for the room to cool down.

This particular room is a remodel/finish out over my garage so it's prob some 400-500 sq ft. and Coleman unit is less than 6-7 yrs (previous owners installed). I apologize, but I don't know the tonnage of the unit but have attached a picture of the label on the side of the condenser.My problem was that after installing the thermostat, it said the inside temp in that room was 82 (The outside temp was between 93-94) and it seemed to take more than 30-45 min to cool the room down 4 degrees to 78. In trying to trouble shoot the problem, one thing I noticed when comparing this unit's performance to the one for my upstairs and downstairs was the temp of the air coming out the vents. I used one of those laser/infrared thermometers and measured the air coming out of the vents for the unit I'm concerned about measuring 62-65 (4 diff vents in the room) with a room temp of 77 whereas the air output for my other units measured 53-54 degrees also for a room temp of 77. I went outside and made sure I rinsed the grate/fins on the condenser.

The air filter is probably 2 months old. The "freon" line feels cold while the unit is running. If I remember, this room used to cool down pretty quickly before since it essentially has its own AC unit.The condenser to this unit seems to run very quietly. Almost like the quietness of desk or floor fan. The other units seem to make more noise while running….ie i can hear them running when I am outside the house and even around the corner of the house.Do outside condensers make a certain level of motor noise when operating appropriately?I had a capacitor replaced last summer on my upstairs ac unit and when the technician was running/testing the unit after changing the capacitor, he noticed it was running pretty quietly and he went and made some adjustment and the motor noise became louder or noisier. I am hoping some of you HVAC guys will know what I am talking about or referring to (what a normal condenser is supposed to sound like or how noisy it should be).I guess I am going to have to call a company to come out.

I'm not sure why the temp diff of air going into the unit (using room temp of 77) and air temp coming out the vents (Mid 60's) is so small. Especially compared to my other units which have closer to a 20 degree differential.I don't know if it will be a matter of just needing to add more freon (R410) or something else. The unit seems to maintain the room temp and cycles no more or less frequently than my other units.Are there any suggestions or other things I should do to trouble shoot the problem before calling someone out? Original Thermostat with red wire to RcNew One with red wire to RCInside Furnace/blowerNot that it probably matters, but I said I had a Coleman A/C Unit. It is actually a Goodman. Notexactly positive what a heat pump is. All I know is it is a single stage cooling and gas fired furnace for heat. I checked again tonight and the air coming out is mid to high 60's and air going into the air return was 74 with room temp on thermostat reading 78.In regards to the thermostat install, I believe I connected it correctly.

The original thermostat had 5 wires Blue ©, Y, G, W, R(installed in Rc). I connected the same way as shown in 2nd pic. I am wondering about the R vs Rc now??Inside the furnace/blower the red wire is connected to R (there is no Rc). Sorry for poor quality pic. However the original thermostat (honeywell) had the red wire installed to Rc (jumper from Rc to R) which is why I chose to install in the Rc connection. Isn't the Rc connection to power the transformer for cooling purposes? Plus with leaving the jumper in place for R and Rc would it matter whether the red wire was connected to the Rc vs the R??The unit seems to be cycling appropriately as far as frequency and now that it has cooled room (currently set at 78 for the night) is seems that its run time is "normal". My concern initially was how long it took to originally cool the room from the 82 to 78 this afternoon, but now it is bothering me that the air blowing out doesn't seem to be cold enough (by measurement).This is confusing me.

If the thermostat turns on and off the unit as temp in room goes up and down, but the air coming out is too warm (for normal operational specs), could this be a thermostat problem, blower/furnace problem, or condenser problem (i.e. coolant)?Thanks pende_timPremium Memberjoin:2004-01-04Andover, NJkudos:1· Unit I'm having trouble withUpstairs unit that works greatThanks for the reply. Removing the panels on the air handler was something I did as a last thing when I was curious about the wire connections on that end. So most of my "warm air" or low temp differential problems I've been trouble shooting were prior to removing anything other than the thermostat off the wall. None the less, I'll recheck the panels on my blower to make sure I did reinstall them securely.I did also go out and check the lines going into the outdoor unit and compare to my others. When this unit is running it does "sweat" and feel cold. It doesn't subjectively feel as cold as on my other units, but this may be normal since it is a smaller unit (smaller tonnage) compared to my other ones.

In fact, for kicks and grins, I used my non contact infrared thermometer that I've been using to test the air coming out of my ceiling vents to also test the temp of these lines. I'm not sure how useful or accurate this method is above and beyond seeing that the line has condensation and feels cool/cold to the touch. The outdoor air temp is currently 80 and on the unit I'm concerned with, the temp of the "suction line" ranged between 69-75 depending on exact laser point location. The longer it ran the more consistent the readings were in the mid 70's. On my upstairs unit the (outside) suction line had temp readings in the mid 60's while running and my downstairs unit was fairly consistent at 70-71 (not pictured). Point being, the suction line does get cold and sweat, but should it, can it, or does it need to be colder?(I did clean the debris, leaves, mulch from around the inlet lines to make sure that wasn't causing the problem)I also want to double check and ask whether in my case does it matter whether I have that red wire hooked up on my thermostat to the Rc or R terminal?