756 posts, read 3,184,116 times 14,097 posts, read 19,232,707 times 3,020 posts, read 20,412,057 times More than likely it is the capacitor.............. 27,825 posts, read 27,796,107 times Yeah, if you don't know the basics about electrics 1 posts, read 234,496 times 2 posts, read 160,216 times 108,154 posts, read 40,891,666 times Originally Posted by basselghassani It's a good possibility the capacitor is bad and the compressor is attempting to start. If the compressor and fan share a combination capacitor it could be bad and affecting both. Heat pumps do tend to makes strange and/or loud noises at times, more so in the winter. Heat pumps have reversing valves that reverse the flow of refrigerant between the heating and cooling modes. During the winter, whenever the heat pump goes into the defrost mode, this valve shifts. Along with that comes a "wooshing sound", which usually lasts for a couple of seconds. After that, the compressor sometimes sounds much louder than usual, almost a "tinny sound".

After shutdown the refrigerant pressures equalize, during this period sounds can sometimes be heard, but this is normal.how to clean window ac air filter Another common loud sound is when the outdoor unit starts up or shuts off. york ac unit coverSpecifically, the newer "Scroll" type compressors tend to make a "back-peddling" type of noise on shutdown. outdoor ac unit fan not workingAnd on start-up, they sometimes sound like an "out-of-balanced washing machine". Sometimes customers complain of a "buzzing" noise coming from the outdoor unit, even when it's not running. This is usually caused by the reversing valve solenoid coil. It's usually a low voltage device (24 volts) and some are just louder than others - and in most cases, this is normal.

If you are hearing a very loud "metal-hitting-metal" type of sound, the fan blades could be hitting something; possibly ice, or a wire, or tubing. Take a look and shut the unit off immediately. This almost always ruins the fan blades and possibly the motor as well. If a piece of copper tubing shifted and is being hit by the blades, they could cut a hole in it causing the refrigerant to leak out. If the fan blades bend or break, they can smash the aluminum fins and copper tubing on the coil - essentially ruining your outdoor unit. Then there are always the "vibration" type of noises, which may sound simple, but can be the most difficult to eliminate. Sometimes it is just a matter of installing rubber isolation pads under the unit. Sometimes the refrigerant piping is strapped too tightly to the joists or studs in the home. Sometimes it is in the unit itself and just cannot be eliminated. Out of balanced or broken fan blades Low refrigerant charge - can cause gurgling sounds

Bad reversing valve - passes refrigerant internally, makes hissing sound Buzzing contactor or noisy solenoid coil Outdoor unit iced-up, fan blades hitting ice (weather-related) Fan blades hitting some other obstruction Vibration due to loose parts. Vibration due to refrigerant piping being strapped too tightly I have been in my house for 11 years now and every 3 or 4 years I have been taking the lid off my condenser unit and lubricating it. I just don’t know if I am even supposed to do this, but it make sense to me. Anyway this year the fan seems louder than last year, so I was going to lubricate it again, I was just wondering if this was normal? Keep in mind though, I think my unit is nearly 40 years old It is a Carrier. Here is a picture of my unit. Any other maintenance tips for the condenser? I would replace the Condenser Fan Motor. Loudness would be attributed to either bent fan blades and/or worn bearings. Considering the age of your condenser unit, it is most likely bearings.

Typically, the bearings on a Condenser Fan Motor do not require lubrication, because the bearing packs are sealed. A video on removing a Condenser Fan Motor can be seen here and A very in-depth and high quality video can be watched here. Here is a picture of a generic Condenser Fan Motor: It is essentially sealed. This is on purpose. It keeps the dirt and debris from getting into the internal fan motor components. The bearings are also internal. There would be no effective way to lubricate them without literally removing the rotor from the stator (i.e. taking the fan apart). Even if you do take it apart and remove the bearings (there is one in the back and one in the front) there is a good chance it is going to look like this: In that case, it wouldn't be very wise to try and remove the protective jacket covering the bearings. They aren't too expensive and could be replace very easily. Just get yourself a puller and you would be all set. If you are lucky, your bearings would look like this:

If your bearings do look like that, then it would be a lot easier to lubricate and probably wouldn't even have to remove them from the rotor in order to do it. I would still replace the fan motor. It has been exposed to the environment for a very long time. Plus, technology has dramatically improved and you should be able to find a suitable replacement that is more energy efficient.Browse other questions tagged air-conditioning central-air heat-pump or ask your own question. 1/4 HP Condenser Fan Motor AO Smith 1/4 HP 208/230 Volt 1PH single speed condenser fan motor is a great replacement condenser fan motor. Its universal all angle mounting, extended thru bolts, reversible rotation CW or CCW and 1/2 X 6 shaft makes this motor a great choice when changing out most Heat Pump and Condenser fan motors. Thermally protected, water slinger on shaft. Rated 60 C ambient temperature 1/2 X 6 shaft Uses a 5MFD / 370 Volt capacitor (not included) Universal, replaces many OEMs