Although they differ in installation, wall and window units operate in similar fashion. During the hottest days of summer, turning your air conditioner on only to be met with warm air, gurgling water or unsettling rattling is anything but cool. While complex mechanical repairs call for assistance from the pros, you can address some wall-unit woes with simple, universal troubleshooting measures, whether you have a through-the-wall unit, a window unit mounted in the wall or a split, ductless style AC. Before making any moves, always consult the owner's manual. Ensure that your AC wall unit is securely plugged into an operational electrical outlet, if the unit's plug is visible. Check your circuit breaker for a blown fuse and replace the fuse if necessary. Replace the batteries in your AC unit's remote control, if it has one. Through-the-wall and ductless, split AC systems often include these accessories. Clear any items that may block airflow near the interior front side of the air conditioner, such as curtains, drapes, blinds or large furniture.

Likewise, close any open windows or doors. Disable your unit's "quiet" or "super quiet" setting, if it has one. These settings reduce noise by reducing fan speed, which reduces cool air distribution. Power down your AC and remove the air filter, the mesh-like panel under the front grille of its interior side. In some through-the-wall and ductless systems, you may have to remove the front panel to access the filter. outdoor ac unit careWash the filter with warm, soapy water; best air conditioning unit to buyallow it to air-dry completely before reinstalling it. mobile ac unit carFor optimal operation, clean your AC's air filter monthly. Remove the front panel of the AC and use a wet-dry shop vacuum with a brush attachment to gently vacuum the interior compartment of the machine, focusing on key components such as the evaporator coils and fan blades.

As is the case with the air filter, clean components make for smooth AC operation. Inspect the intake and outlet grilles on either side of through-the-wall or split, ductless units for debris -- such as leaves or twigs -- and clear the debris by hand or with a vacuum. Sometimes a clogged condenser causes the AC to emit warm air; because condensers expel heat to the exterior of the building, a blockage means the warm air has nowhere to go but inside. If your split, ductless AC has a separate, box-like exterior unit, clear debris from the outlet grills on this unit. Tip Warning References Canoga Park Heating and Air Conditioning: Three Common Repair Problems With a Window AC UnitTrue Home: Three Air Conditioning Repair Troubleshooting TipsHorizon Services: The Horizon Comfort Zone -- Troubleshooting Your Window Air ConditionerGE Appliances: Air Conditioners -- Window Unit Not Cooling WellRepairClinic: Air Conditioner Not Cold EnoughGE Appliances: Air Conditioners -- Water SoundsRepair Clinic: Air Conditioner Is Loud or NoisyFujitsu: Troubleshooting Ductless Mini-SplitsPanasonic -- Sanyo North American Solutions Division

: Air Conditioning and Heat Pump Product Technical Training Photo Credits Yamini Chao/Digital Vision/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionBe sure to scroll down... there may be more than one question on this page! The two possible causes are 1) actual leak of rainwater from the outside or 2) condensation, which is a normal byproduct of the air conditioning process but should be dripping outside your home, not into your wall! Since the amount of condensation increases as the relative humidity outside increases, you are correct to wonder whether there is a connection between the humidity and the You can locate the source of a rain leak by making a visual examination of any weatherstripping or caulking around the outside of the machine itself, or the sleeve that the "works" of the AC slides into. If you find any gaps or openings in the caulk, you can scrape out the old caulk and replace it. If there is a rain gutter over the AC unit, make sure that it is not blocked.

If the gutter were to overflow you could get leakage around the AC or through the air vents in the frame even if the caulking seems OK due to the sheer volume As I mentioned, the condensate from the AC normally flows to the outside and exits the frame via weep holes in the frame (or pan). rubber plugs underneath the pan, designed to allow condensate flow.  have accessory kits that allow you to install a hose to redirect this condensate in dripping straight downward is not acceptable. If the condensate exit holes are blocked, water can build up in the bottom of the pan and potentially leak out where it shouldn't! You will have to examine your unit to see where these weep holes are and if they are blocked. culprits are rust or paint chips that drop into the pan and block the weepThis could also account for the sudden dripping! AC units that slide into a preinstalled through-the-wall sleeve are oftenThe body (and tray) must be installed at a slight downward

angle towards the outside. Were the unit to somehow change level, it is possible that the condensate would instead build up in the bottom of the frame and leakThe only way to know for sure is to put a level on the frame to see if it is level. If shifting has occurred you will need to modify the mounting (either inside or outside) to restore the downward tilt. To your other issue, the loss of cooling power is definitely attributable at least in part to the increased humidity. Some of the cooling energy is being used up drying up the moist air in your home. Dust on the cooling coils would also cause loss of cooling power, and would worsen with increased humidity as the dust holds the moisture, producing a damp insulating blanket on the coils. Finally, mechanical problems with the coolant pump and/or a loss of coolant pressure are other possible causes that should be investigated. Return to NH's Question and Answer Index Your email address*Your Friends email address*Comment

Wall air conditioners offer the same benefits as room air conditioners and don’t require that you have a conveniently-placed window in which to install a unit. Wall air conditioners are less expensive than central air conditioning units, provide cooling capabilities of up to 18,000 BTU/hour, and can cool a room as large as 1,000 square feet. Some wall air conditioners are even large enough to cool an entire small house, provided that properly-placed, portable fans and appropriate insulation are used. A wall-mounted air conditioner works in the same way as window air conditioners. Two fans blow air over hot and cold Freon-filled coils. The hot coils condense the Freon into a liquid, which then runs through an expansion valve and evaporates, which creates cold Freon gas. The cold gas absorbs warm outside air, cooling it and blowing it into the room to lower the room’s temperature. As a by-product of this process, the air conditioner also removes excess humidity from the room, making it feel even cooler and more comfortable.

A wall-mounted air conditioner preserves your window view and allows you to open the window when it’s cool enough outside that air conditioning is unnecessary. Also, because wall air conditioners stay in place year-round, they offer easy, one-time installation. Finally, because it never leaves the wall, there’s no need to store a bulky AC unit in another location such as your attic or basement during the off-season. This makes a wall-mounted AC a particularly good option in regions that experience all four seasons. Wall air conditioners provide more installation options than window units. Place a wall-mounted AC unit on any outside-facing, sheetrock wall that does not have any existing pipes or electrical lines running through it. With the help of a qualified electrician, it’s even possible to move electrical lines to accommodate an AC unit if necessary. Because the installer will have to cut a hole in the wall, a wall air conditioner cannot be mounted on a stone, brick, or concrete wall.