Has a tremendous amount of potential, but can't recommend in current stateStay away - stay far, far away!What I learned from my "learning thermostat"? That it is a gimmicky waste of money. A beautiful device that can destroy your heater We REALLY tried to like this product...Energy-Efficient and Quality Built Thermostat.Nest Learning Thermostat is HORRIBLE for Rental PropertiesNest Support is Loosing Them CustomersThe No Co Norcold page teaches how to reset Norcold fridges when the No Co code flashes and not cold In a nutshell, the ARP Control will not allow the No Co fault to occur. This is because the No Co fault code is set when the fridge does not cool after turning on, the ARP detects this situation and usually intervenes before the No Co fault code can be set. If you do have the No Co turn on, this is due to the temperature sensor (thermistor) in the fridge not sending a signal to the Norcold controller. please use this page with the Norcold Thermistor page.

Following are the steps to reset your Norcold fridge if the No Co Norcold error message is appearing on your fridge control panel. In order to reset Norcold fridges when the No Co code flashes one has to take off the cover of the fridge controller as follows: First "no co" Fault Occurrence The first time the “no co” fault code appears on the optical control assembly, it can be cleared by the user by turning the refrigerator OFF and then back ON. This gives the user the opportunity to check for problems that may have caused a "no co" code, such as obstructed ventilation. This fault code occurrence is then stored in the controls. If the refrigerator completes a full cooling cycle after the user turns it back on, this fault code occurrence will be cleared from the controls. Second "no co" Fault Occurrence If the refrigerator does not complete a full cooling cycle after the user turns the refrigerator back on and the "no" "co" fault displays, the control lock the heat sources and a "hard-wire" power board reset

The hard-wire reset of the power board must be performed by a service center according if you are not qualified to preform this task. The first No Co Norcold fault code appears on the optical control assembly, it can be cleared by the user by turning the refrigerator OFF and then back ON. The hard-wire reset of the power board must be performed by a service center according to 1. Turn OFF the refrigerator. 2. Disconnect the following from power board: a. 12 VDC positive and negative wires. b. AC power cord. c. Gas valve solenoid coil wires. d. Spark/sense electrode assembly wires. 3. Remove the power board cover. 4. Reconnect a, b, c, & d disconnected in step 2. 5. Turn ON the refrigerator. 6. Locate Pin 15 on 16 pin connector (P1). Pin 15 is the empty socket to the right of the white/violet wire on the top row. See figure to the left. 7. Using an insulated jumper wire, short Pin 15 to the power board ground lug for 10 - 15 seconds.

click sound will indicate when the controls have reset. 8. Turn OFF the refrigerator. 9. Turn ON refrigerator. If "no co" code displays, repeat steps 7 - 9. If the code cleared proceed to 10. Turn OFF the refrigerator.top 10 best ac units 11. Disconnect a, b, c, & d. as directed in step 2.window ac unit not getting cold 12. Install the power board cover.how much does new ac unit cost 13. Reconnect the following to the power board: a. Spark/sense electrode assembly wire. b. Gas valve solenoid coil wires. c. AC power cord. d. 12 VDC positive and negative wires from the power board. 14. Place refrigerator in service.My (ex)wife had a 2004 Toyota Highlander that was exhibiting some strange issues with the A/C and heat.

In the summer while driving with the A/C on it would randomly just switch to heat and just as randomly switch back later. Sometimes bumps would trigger it or a sharp turn. Same would occur in the winter while using the heat. It would randomly switch to A/C and back. The problem was pretty annoying but I suspect fearing the possible cost to repair kept her from bringing it in for service. The issue seemed to get worse over time and with the horrible Louisiana summer heat and humidity quickly approaching she finally brought it in to get inspected and to get a quote. The shop she brought it to “checked it” and told her it was the “temperature control actuator”. They told her it would cost about $500 to fix. After getting this information I went to Autozone and O’Reilly’s trying to find this part and what it costs. Neither could find this part. This made me pretty curious and wondered why no one could identify the part. So I went sit in my car and whipped out the iPhone to Google this part and figure out what was going on.

I didn’t find any mention of a “temperature control actuator” for a Toyota Highlander but I did find lots of information pointing to what appeared to be the same A/C issue with the Highlander by many people. I found many complaining that they had to replace the A/C control assembly to fix the problem. The A/C control assembly sells between $700 – $1000, just depends on where you get it. Labor to replace it was between $300-$500. Many reported paying or getting quotes between $1200 – $1500 to replace it. This was not looking good. I went back inside the store and confirmed the part was $700+ but they didn’t have it. Turns out this was a good thing. It caused me to go back to the car and start searching for that part. This time, I stumbled across someone who was a mechanic who ran across this problem with a client. He mentioned that after he took everything apart thinking he was going to have to replace the A/C control assembly he found the real problem. Apparently the issue is with the temperature control switch (knob) and the three wires connecting it to the control assembly circuit board had broken.

This was especially interesting because it really seemed like it made more sense to me. The fact that bumps in the road would cause this to work and not work really made me think this was a short or something along those lines. I didn’t buy the other explanations personally because most of them would have only accounted for it not working entirely and not sporadically.I decided this broken wire issue had to be the problem and I would at least check this out before spending any money. Figured I didn’t have anything to lose by confirming this. I went home and went straight at it. Tore the center console apart and got to the control panel. Tore the control panel apart and got to the circuit board (control assembly). Sure enough two of the three wires connecting the temperature control to the circuit board had broken off.Got it soldered again and everything reassembled and sure enough, it is working like a champ and cost NOTHING to fix it! Sad that most places wouldn’t attempt to solder it back but rather would just charge people $1500 to replace the whole control assembly.

Anyway… with all that said I thought I would share and detail the process for others in the hopes of saving others a ton of money in the future. I highly recommend doing as others have suggested and replacing the ribbon cable you need to solder back together. Part of the problem with the current design seems to be that the ribbon cable is too short. This causes added tension when things are put together and adds to the issue with the wire breaking. Also, you will or should know how to clean the old solder from the holes on the circuit board in order to correctly solder things back together. Use a desoldering pump to assist with this. If you don’t know how to solder you might be able to find a small local computer repair shop or trade school with people willing to do it for very cheap. Appreciate all the great feedback this post has been getting, makes you feel good to hear the positive comments. 5/30/2011 – Just slightly over a year since I put this post up and I think we have easily helped over 100 people either DIY or with slight help (soldering isn’t for everyone, thank God for computer or TV repair shops).

At an average of $800 to have someone replace this board or Toyota to fix it well it looks like we have saved about $80,000 total. I know that number is on the short side too. Maybe I should get into the Highlander AC repair business. Hope everyone continues to find success with this and please continue to share your success here. It’s a great feeling to get to read all these comments! emove the knobs. These simply pull right off. emove the trim panel from the center console. Start at the bottom on one side and then the other. Work your way to the top. This is easily done with no tools and just a little force. here are six 10mm bolts to remove that are holding the center console in place. (Three on each side of console) emove two screws from both sides of the assembly. ry the bracket away from the control assembly in order to clear the alignment pins. nplug the wiring from the control assembly. There are three things to unplug. ou should now have the control assembly module completely removed from the console. I

n order to access the circuit board inside the black plastic housing of the control assembly, you will need to remove the screws holding the rear plastic cover on. Once the screws are removed you can separate the two pieces slowly. You can only separate it slightly as there is a ribbon cable connecting one circuit board to the other. I pried one side (where the cable was) apart and then used a butter knife to release the connector for the ribbon cable. Once the cable is free you can completely separate the two pieces. emove the screws and clips holding the circuit board in place. emove the nuts that hold the switches in place. ith the circuit boards and switches removed from the assembly, I could now see the real problem. Two of the three wires that connect the switch to the circuit board were broken. Clean away the old solder and wire pieces. You should have three clean holes on the switch board in which to re-solder the wires to. I’m no expert on soldering but it wasn’t hard at all. I