A traditional home comfort system has two parts: an indoor unit, such as a furnace or air handler, and an outdoor unit. An air conditioner is the outdoor unit that cools air and sends it to the indoor unit to be circulated through your home. The indoor and outdoor units are designed to work together, and when the air conditioner is properly matched with a furnace or air handler, the result is maximum efficiency and extended system life. The air conditioning part of your "split system" includes a compressor, a fan, condenser coil, evaporator coil and a refrigerant. The system extracts heat from indoor air and transfers it outside, leaving the cooled indoor air to be recirculated. Air conditioning and cooling efficiency is measured using a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). A higher SEER signifies higher energy efficiency. The basic components of an air conditioning system: A Condensing Unit (the outdoor section) A matching indoor Air Handler or Gas Furnace with coil

Ductwork to transfer the cooled air throughout the home Q: My air conditioning system isn't cooling very well. Should I replace it? A: You may wish to consider replacing your air conditioning system if it is old, inefficient or in need of repair. Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as ten years ago. air conditioner unit price compareIn addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce the efficiency of the system.how much does a new ac unit cost 2014 Q: How expensive is central air conditioning?car ac parts uk A: Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the type and condition of the ductwork installed and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner.

PSE&G offers a complete range of systems and accessories available to meet your needs. Q: What should I look for in an air conditioning system? A: First, the unit should be properly sized to provide enough cooling for your home. PSE&G can provide a load calculation for your home if you aren't sure. Next, consider comfort issues in the home. New products can reduce uneven temperatures from room to room. If you have allergies, look for systems that filter your home's air as it circulates. Finally, know your budget parameters and the efficiency of the system being proposed. Q: How long can I expect a new system to last? A: Industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 12-15 years (sea coast applications may be less). Q: What is involved in replacing an old system? A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, your installer should inspect the other items in your air conditioning system, such as: ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil.

Need new central air conditioning? PSE&G will replace your old air conditioning system with quality York and Honeywell products. We offer an easy payment plan, with no money down and monthly payments right on your PSE&G bill. For a free replacement estimate Call 1-800-240-3609 or find out more on our Central Air Conditioning Replacement webpage. A glossary of air conditioning terms Here are some terms that you might hear when doing research into your air conditioning system: Air Handler - The portion of the system that moves heated or cooled air throughout a home's ductwork. Balance Point - An outdoor temperature, usually between 30° F and 45° F, at which a heat pump's output exactly equals the heating needs of the home. Below the balance point, supplementary electric resistance heat is needed to maintain indoor comfort. Btu - British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water (about one pint) by one degree F.

Evaporator Coil - The portion of a heat pump or central air conditioning system that is located in the home and functions as the heat transfer point for warming or cooling indoor air. Outdoor Coil/Condensing Unit - The portion of a heat pump or central air conditioning system that is located outside the home and functions as a heat transfer point for collecting heat from and dispelling heat to the outside air. SEER - Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. A measure of an air conditioner's cooling efficiency. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the product. The government's established minimum SEER rating for air conditioners is 13. Split System - A heat pump or central air conditioning system with components located both inside and outside the home. The most common design for home use.Copyright © 1997 Hannabery HVAC. A well-planned heat pump installation! The heat pump is elevated above anticipated snowfall for better efficiency and proper drainage. A base of stone surrounds the unit;

keeping the coils clean from dirt and grass, keeping the unit level and the service tech's feet clean. Shrubs provide a windbreak, sound barrier and shading but are far enough away from the unit as not to interfere with performance or servicing. Unit is at least 18" away from wall for performance and servicing. The disconnect box is within 6' of unit but not directly behind it. Below are some tips, advice and maintenance guidelines for your outdoor air conditioner and/or heat pump. These tips are for better efficiency, longer life, and easier service. Most of the information here applies to both air conditioners and heat pumps. But read carefully, some of the information is for one or the other. If you follow any of these tips make sure you know if you have a heat pump or an air conditioner or damage could result. Set thermostat at one temperature. Constant adjusting can cause higher utility costs. If using your thermostat as a setback type, limit the setbacks to twice a day such as when you are at work and when you are sleeping.

Only setback the thermostat 6% of desired temperature (approximately five degrees). In the heating mode, try not to set the thermostat below 65 degrees or above 75 degrees. Below 65 degrees, a heat pump just won't put out enough heat, and above 75 degrees, it's using too much energy. In the cooling mode, try not to set the thermostat below 70 degrees. Besides higher utility costs, this can cause the indoor coil to freeze and cause condensation in the house. Don't stack things on top of the unit. If the fan is on the top of the unit, the air-flow cannot be restricted. Do not put your rolled-up garden hose or landscaping products on the unit. We see this all the time! Keep the outdoor condenser coils clean. If they get dirty you can use a heavy duty degreaser and hose them down. Just turn the unit off first. When mowing the lawn, direct the mower away from the unit. A coil blocked with grass clippings and debris drastically reduces the efficiency. When using a weed whacker be careful near the unit.

Debris can damage the coil, flatten the aluminum fins, and cut the thermostat wires; shorting out the transformer. We see this all the time, and it is an expensive repair. For efficiency, comfort, and longevity of equipment... Be careful with weed whacker and lawn mower... Don't let your dog urinate on the unit... Yep, that caused this! Don't plant prickly bushes like roses or holly around the unit. No one will want to service it! Don't grow a garden or plant exotic flowers around the outdoor unit and expect the service technician to tip-toe around everything. When planting shrubs, don't block the access panels or the coil. Plan to keep 18 to 30 inches around the unit. Don't forget to plan for the growth of the shrubs - five, ten, even fifteen years down the road. Many people like to completely hide the outdoor unit behind shrubs. If you do this don't be surprised if the technician refuses to service the unit. Please have some consideration, and leave a path wide enough to accommodate the technician, his tools and enough room to work.

Having crushed stone around the unit is best. It allows for good drainage, keeps the unit level and from sinking, keeps the coils clean from washed-up grass and dirt, and also keeps the service technicians shoes clean. This will also keep your floors and carpeting clean. If building a fence around the unit, allow for room to service, or even replace the unit. If any major repairs need to be made, the service technician may need access to all sides on the unit. Don't expect the service tech to have to jump or climb over a fence - it's not safe or practical. The unit should be serviced on a regular basis. Install a gate that can be easily opened. We often see fences without gates - and the customer expects the technician to unbolt and remove the fence and then re-install it when he is finished. Make sure there is enough room for proper airflow & servicing... Keep snow, ice, and leaves away from the outdoor unit. This includes the top, sides, and bottom. Make it a habit to look at the outdoor heat pump during the winter months for signs of excessive ice or snow build-up on or around the heat pump.

Especially after bad weather. If the unit is covered in snow or ice, it must be removed for it to work properly. Turn the thermostat to Emergency heat or the Off position while removing the snow and ice. You can pour warm water over the unit to melt the snow and ice. Even cold water from a hose will help. Don't use any sharp objects to pick or knock the ice off the coils of the heat pump. This could cause severe damage and personal injury. Once the unit is clear of snow and ice turn the thermostat back to normal heating. If the unit ices up again, call for service. Don't let the outdoor unit sit underneath a leaking gutter. In the winter months, water will drip on the top of the unit and freeze solid. This will restrict the air flow and cause the whole unit to freeze-up. Heat Pumps should be elevated 4 to 8 inches above ground level to keep coils clear of snow and ice and to allow for proper drainage. Contact our Service Department if you would like your unit raised.