Air Conditioning • HVAC A central air-conditioner is an elaborate system that involves parts such as an evaporator, a compressor, a condenser, fans, and refrigerant to run through the unit. Like many household appliances, each of these components does their job both independently, but also in unison with the connecting parts and when one section of the system goes down, the entire performance falters. While each component in a central air-conditioner is critical, quite simply the unit will not work if the fan is not running. Fans in the central A/C both pull air out of the room to be conditioned and have humidity removed and also push chilled air through the vents throughout the house. When the fan goes down there is no way to cycle the air and thus the system is essentially stalled. It’s important to get the fan up and running ASAP or else the home will get uncomfortable in a hurry and you could end up damaging the compressor. There are a few ways to tell if your A/C fan is temporarily or permanently out of order.

The first is an inspection of the outdoor unit to physically see if the fan is turning. The condenser lines should be cold and the air inside the home should be cool. If the fan isn’t running at all or there is warm air blowing it’s time to troubleshoot:ac units for homes reviews If the fan doesn’t start up at all it could be something as simple as a setting on the thermostat. smallest size ac unitMake sure that the power is turned on and that the settings are calling for ‘cooling’. carrier ac parts suppliersIf all the settings are correct but the fan doesn’t start it could be an overheated or damaged fan motor. In some cases, you can give the fan a ‘kick start’ by pushing it with a stick and if this occurs there is likely an issue with the capacitor.

Similarly, if a fan won’t turn when the power is on but will rotate freely when shut off it could be the sign of a bad motor bearing. Trouble with the bearing will also result in wobbly or lopsided turning if the fan does run. The fan needs to run at an optimal speed for the system to function properly. If the blade turns noticeably slower there may be low voltage running to the unit caused by issues with the control board or problems with the circuits. Also, the fan blade may have come loose from the motor shaft and is simply moving slowly because of a breeze or the turning of the shaft. Once again a capacitor may also be causing issues with the slow moving fan. If your Central A/C fan is acting unpredictably, starting on and off at random and shutting down in the middle of a cycle it could be a sign there’s an issue with the wiring or some loose components somewhere. It’s normal for a fan to keep running for a short time after an A/C cycle while the compressor motor stops but a fan that keeps winding excessively there are likely problems in the circuit board or with the wiring.

As long as the A/C unit is running properly some homeowners may be willing to ignore a ticking, rattling, or buzzing coming from the fan area. In reality, it’s best to diagnose these sounds to make sure they aren’t leading to serious problems down the line. The first thing to check is that an obstruction isn’t hitting the fan blades as they turn or that the blades aren’t bent. Buzzing and humming are somewhat more sinister as they could present a problem with the motor or the bearings turning the blades. The common denominator with all these problems is that, although a visual inspection might locate the problem, the fix should almost always be done by a professional HVAC technician. It’s better to spend money for a service call and be guaranteed you fix the problem rather than buy unnecessary parts or do incomplete fixes that could end up costing more in the long run. Are you in Pennsylvania and need help with your HVAC system? Contact us today for a free quote!

A standard 240-volt dedicated circuit will be required for the compressor unit and handler. An electrician charges between $50 and $75 per hour. If the home is under 200 amps, it may require moving circuits or upgraded electric service. A separate dedicated outlet will also need to be located near the unit for safety. The outlet should be grounded and have an arc fault interrupter circuit, a circuit breaker designed to prevent fires, installed due to the unit's proximity to the outside environment and constant cycling procedure. A compressor unit will require a stable base much like a standard central air unit. A concrete pad is standard, but a paving-stone base can also be used to blend in with a paving-stone patio. However, the unit has a much smaller footprint so the cost should not be above $60. A homeowner can usually install this small base themselves and reduce the cost of installation by a margin. The installation of refrigerant and electric lines to the unit is an integral part of the process.

A compressor is rated to handle a specific length of line to the unit for refrigerant. A contractor may be required to install the channels and copper line to the house, generally costing between $30 and $50 per hour for the work. The homeowner has a choice in where they want the handler located, but should keep in mind that there is a limit on line length. A carpenter may be required to install an opening for the air handler unit. This will vary from $18 to $30 per hour depending on the carpentry service. Interior porches may require installation from the garage or in the attic for a cassette adapter style opening. Many homeowners install built-in bookshelves or other decorations around air handlers to enhance the room's look. The compressor unit has both a SEER rating and BTU rating to determine airflow and amount of coolant required. A single unit can be rated at 24,000 BTU with a SEER of at least 17. The compressor draws the air from the room and recycles it into the refrigerant line and coils to cool the room like a standard air conditioner.

It is located far away from the room in an obscure location for aesthetics. Compressor units are combined to allow for individual zones of heating. A small enclosed porch can have a separate climate from the living room without sacrificing energy efficiency. Separate units are determined based on square footage and the insulation of the home. Older homes may need a lower SEER rating to accommodate for the less tight envelope of the home's insulation. The inverter unit is the equivalent of the room's duct vent. It manages the flow of air and filters air into the room. It also tells the compressor when to cycle to achieve the desired temperatures. Refrigerant line comes in specified lengths depending on the unit. Ideally, the line should have as limited a run as possible for maximum efficiency. If the line is too long, the compressor will cycle too often and lose energy efficiency. The line is one-quarter of an inch thick and will either come as a line set or separate copper line.

The line set will include extra electrical wiring and components to go into the air handler. Line covers and channels hide the copper refrigerant line to blend in with the exterior of the home. Special effort is made to ensure that the lines are not an obvious distraction from the exterior. Siding color can be copied to blend in with soffits and vents. A line set cover will have several end caps to attach underneath a gutter or alongside the corner of a home. The electrical conduit and line is fed through the channel into the opening where the handler will be located. A combination unit converts outside air into heat. Most mini-split or ductless systems have a heat option available for winter. A cassette handler can be installed in the ceiling or wall for a more streamlined look. The unit frees up space on the wall and is embedded directly into the framing. Installation is typically in the ceiling to maximize wall and storage space. A mini-split or ductless air conditioning unit has several major advantages.

In older homes, it is often difficult to install central air conditioning in the wall cavities. A mini-split solves this by using exterior duct channels to the room. A ductless air conditioning system is also considered single zoned, meaning that each room or space can be controlled individually. This can result in considerable savings on energy costs. Ductless air conditioner units can also be easily moved. Most furnace and central air systems require a fairly expensive HVAC visit just to move the unit from one location of the house to another. However, a ductless system is not without its faults. Large open spaces, such as those with high ceilings, will be difficult to control without a larger compressor. The initial cost is usually higher than installing a standard heat pump or air conditioning unit linked to a furnace. Air exchange can also be an issue in tight homes. A ductless system does not exchange air and should be considered before installation. Last updated on May 17, 2016