2,378 posts, read 4,849,708 times Originally Posted by zulu400 Who said you can't? I already have a sleeve in the wall with a busted A/C, these things are frigging expensive, but the window units are cheaper... 9,918 posts, read 15,197,346 times 4,281 posts, read 7,953,888 times By header you mean like the frame on the inside of the house ? If thats what you meant then its already there, hopefully I can get a smaller one than that. Originally Posted by accufitgolf Excellent point, the old one was a 120V one and looking to get the same. 1 posts, read 17,778 timesSorry there seems to have been a system error. The file you are looking for may have been moved to another location or can't be found in the DataBase. Use the Custom search form to find what you are looking for or clickA window air conditioning unit, designed for easy installation in a window opening, does a fine job of cooling a room. However, the unit in effect closes the window, preventing you from using the window in mild conditions.

An alternative that keeps the room cool, and frees up the window for operation, is to build an air conditioner into a wall so it's permanently installed and out of the way. This works particularly well for cooling a small addition or part of the house that isn't cooled naturally or by other units. When a unit is mounted high on the wall, it does a good job of cooling the space efficiently and effectively. A key requirement is to place it near a 115-volt electrical outlet, or have one added near the location on the wall. A carpenter will build in a 10,000 BTU energy-efficient air conditioner into a wall for $750, which includes the labor, framing material and the unit. If you have carpentry experience, you can do the job for $550, the cost of the unit and framing material, and save 27 percent. You'll have to cut away enough of the interior wallboard to frame in an opening, and then position the unit in the opening and secure it. Then you cut the siding and trim out the opening on the exterior.

You may have to repair and paint the walls and trim if you damage them during installation. Pro Cost -- DIY Cost -- Pro time -- DIY Time -- DIY Savings -- Percent Saved $750 -- $550 -- 6.0 -- 8.5 -- $200 -- 27 Percent Reports Sought In Jonbenet's Sister's DeathPain relievers: What are the differences?Princess Grace`s Fatal Crash: Her Daughter`s Account Dark meaning of bubble-gum Pumped Up Kicks is tough to chew10 reasons why you want the jobComplications common for adults after tonsillectomy ConnectLike us on FacebookFollow us on Twitter Just tell us about your needs and we'll quickly match you to the pre-screened, West Palm Beach Window Air Conditioner Installation Pros you can trust to get the job done. Know any great Window Air Conditioner Installation Pros in the West Palm Beach area? More West Palm Beach HVAC & Air Conditioning Contractors More Florida Window Air Conditioner Installation Pros Recent Job Requests for Install a Window Air Conditioning Unit Contractors in West Palm Beach, Florida:

Installing ductwork for heating and air conditioning is a bit like putting together a huge three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle.The basic rules of the game, however, are the same, whether you're retrofitting an older house, working with new construction, or adding heating and air conditioning to a new room, attic or basement.Basic Rule No. 1: Hot air rises, cold air falls.Ducts should be installed to take maximum advantage of natural air movement. how much for a new 3 ton ac unitFor instance, for air conditioning to work properly, air returns, the large ducts that carry air back to the central unit, need to be installed high up on the wall of each upper floor, to capture warmer air and return it for cooling. diy ac repair partsEfficient heating means installing a return at a low point on the first floor, to capture cooled air and return it for heating.air conditioning unit cost uk

Registers that deliver warm air should be in the floor or low on the wall; registers to deliver cool air should be installed high up on the wall. (The best systems may require a mix.)Basic Rule No. 2:Ducts should be installed so they run as straight as possible from the basement to each register. That's because the more turns you make, the slower the air will move and the less air will be delivered to the register.Basic Rule No. 3:Every register should be fed directly from the central unit (or basement trunk line) by its own duct. If you stacked registers on a single duct on second and third floors, for instance, all the heat would go to the second floor.Basic Rule No. 4:Map out your duct path to upper floors before you start cutting any holes. Ducts should be able to run between studs in the wall and then turn into a joist bay (the space between two joists). Make sure the studs and bays line up well enough to leave a clear path.Basic Rule No. 5:When you make a turn, use a fitting designed for the purpose.

That will keep the air moving efficiently. (An old-fashioned shortcut was to make square turns, but they cause eddies that reduce air movement.)Basic Rule No. 6:Plan heating ducts to emerge at external walls -- those are the coldest walls. Registers should be placed in the middle of the external wall (in the floor or low on the wall); if there are two external walls, both need registers in the middle. (If the room is tiny, one duct may work, even if there are two external walls.)Basic Rule No. 7:Ducts that run through unheated spaces should be insulated. An uninsulated duct will lose a lot of its heat on the way to the register. (This rule is especially important if you're putting an addition over an unheated crawl space.)Even if you're not installing the system yourself, knowing the rules will make you a more informed heating and air-conditioning systems consumer.In our case, we hired an installer to put in the furnace, the air-conditioning equipment, basement trunk lines, exhaust flue through the roof and the largest air return, which goes to the very top of the house, a cathedral ceiling on the third floor.

The rest of the ductwork we're doing ourselves -- partly to save money, but partly because we are so fussy about where it goes.We always add a couple of rules to the basics. For instance, because it's an old house and we're retrofitting with the first real heating and air conditioning the structure has ever had, we don't want it to show. So all the ducts will be concealed in the walls and ceilings. There'll be no chases (drywall boxes), except for the largest cold-air return and the exhaust flue, which run on either side of an existing fireplace flue. We were able to use one of these chases for some plumbing pipes as well, and to conceal it behind a closet on the second floor.Our other extra rule is that air conditioning has to be just as effective on upper floors as it is on the first floor. That means running high air returns for every major room on the second and third floors.Fortunately, we discovered something called "button-lock oval pipe," which is easy to work with and fits neatly into the space between 2-by-4 studs.

It comes in 5-inch, 6-inch and 7-inch widths, so it delivers a lot of air. There are dozens of fittings to connect it around corners, to registers, and to round pipe (used for floor registers).Where it's necessary to join two lengths of oval pipe, we've been using two half-inch sheet-metal screws and wrapping the joint with aluminized duct tape that is so strong it would hold the pieces together by itself.Unfortunately, we discovered all this neat stuff at a wholesale supply house, and not in our local home-supply supermarkets, which means it's hard for do-it-yourselfers to buy. Next: Answers to readers' questions.Mr. Johnson is construction manager for Neighborhood Housing Services of Baltimore. Ms. Menzie is a home writer for The Sun.If you have questions, tips or experiences to share about working on houses, write to us c/o HOME WORK, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Questions of general interest will be answered in the column; comments, tips and experiences will be reported in occasional columns.