Why is my indoor central air conditioner leaking water? An indoor central air conditioning unit may be leaking water due to a buildup of excess condensation on the internal cold evaporator coil, a blocked condensate drainage pipe, a rusted condensate drain pan, a frozen evaporator coil or improper installation. If water is noticed beneath an air conditioning unit, it is important to unplug the unit first before attempting to diagnose the problem. What is a condensate drain pump? How do you remove bad smells from a central air system? What is an air conditioner drain alert? Most air conditioning units have a dehumidifier built into the design. This dehumidifier works to pull water out of the air by passing it over a chilled evaporator coil in the body of the unit. On a particularly humid day, the dehumidifier pulls more moisture out of the air than normal. The water builds up on the evaporator coil in excessive amounts and could overflow the drainage pipe or leak through the unit's drain pan.

If the drainage pipe becomes obstructed by dirt, leaves or insects, the water formed on the evaporation coil can overflow and leak out of the unit. Ice can also build up on the evaporator coil if the air conditioning unit is not properly ventilated due to a dirty air filter. Once the air filter is changed, the ice melts from the coil and could leak out of the unit. Finally, if the air conditioning unit was installed on a slant, this could cause the water to run off of the drain pan and leak out of the unit. Where is the drain pipe in a central air conditioner? A drain pipe for a central air conditioner system is generally found around or behind the location of the unit. The drain pipe is typically made using a PV... What causes excessive water in an air conditioner drain pan? Blocked condensation drain lines often cause excessive amounts of water in an air conditioner drain pan. These lines are designed to funnel excess water fr... How do you clean air conditioner drain lines?

According to Homestructions, clean air conditioner drain lines by using white vinegar, bleach and water. Using an improvised vacuum cleaner or a mighty pum... How much does the coil cost for a 2 ton air conditioner? As of 2015, an evaporator coil for a 2-ton air conditioner costs around $200 to $600 depending on the brand. The repair task itself of installing the coil ... What is the weight of 1 gallon of water? What stores sell parts for Teledyne boilers? What are LG heat pumps? What countries and bodies of water border Israel? Is it best to run the fan constantly on a central heat and air system? How much electricity does a ceiling fan use?In this article, we'll show you how to clean and maintain your central air conditioner to keep it running efficiently. We won't demonstrate the maintenance steps for a window-mounted model here. Most central air conditioners have two basic parts: an outdoor unit (compressor/condenser) that sits next to your home and an indoor unit (evaporator) that's located in a central duct near your furnace (Fig. A).

If you have a heat pump instead of a furnace, the indoor unit will be in the air handler. Use the same maintenance steps we show here. how many hvac units do i needIf your furnace looks different from the one in Fig. A, or you have a heat pump, use the owner's manual to find your way around it. how do residential ac units workThe basic parts will be the same.home central air conditioner installation The most important maintenance steps are fairly simple, but if this is the first time you've cleaned the unit, allow about a half day to carefully work through the steps. If you're not up to the task, call a pro (look under “Air Conditioning Contractors” in your Yellow Pages). Cleaning and servicing a central air conditioner costs $100 to $250.

Fig. A shows a typical central air conditioning/furnace setup. Two copper tubes connect the outdoor compressor and its condenser coil (a “coil” is a combination of fins and tubes) to the indoor evaporator coil that's located in the plenum (Fig. A) above the furnace blower. One tube is covered with foam insulation. If you have a heat pump, both tubes will be insulated. Outside, your main job is to clean the condenser coil (Photos 2 - 4). The fan inside the condenser coil sucks air through the fins, and as a result, pulls dirt and debris with it. Dust, leaves, dead grass and anything else that collects on the fins will block airflow and reduce the unit's efficiency. Grass clippings thrown by the lawn mower and “cotton” from cottonwood trees and dandelions are particularly bad offenders. You might have to clear the fins weekly or even daily during the spring “cotton” season! Always begin by shutting off the electrical power (Photo 1). Then proceed with the cleaning (Photos 2 - 4).

If the fan motor (Photo 3) has lubrication ports, apply five drops of special oil for electric motors (not penetrating or all-purpose oil). You can find oil for electric motors at hardware stores. Many fan motors are maintenance-free—they don't have oil ports (ours doesn't) and can't be lubricated. Check your owner's manual if unsure. The compressor and its motor sit inside the coil (Fig. A). They're usually sealed and won't need maintenance. However, if you have an older compressor that's belt-driven by a separate motor, lubricate the motor through its oil ports. In every case, keep an eye out for dark drip marks on the bottom of the compressor case or pad (Photo 5). This indicates an oil leak; the compressor or tubes might be leaking coolant (refrigerant) as well. If you find a leak, call in a pro to check the problem. Don't tighten joints to try to stop leaks yourself! Over-tightening can make the problem worse. And only a pro with proper equipment can recharge the system to the proper level of coolant.