Show All ItemsWARNING: Electricity and motors are dangerous. If you don't know how to be safe, then please don't do this. If you manage to maim, damage, kill or otherwise injure yourself. I had to replace 4 or 5 pulleys in fairly short order. I filmed each step on a different pulley. I apologize in advance if this upsets your OCD. Also, I tested the electrical system properly, with 2-hands before filming, During the film, I neglect to show testing each phase to ground. I needed two hands to do that, so wasn't able to film it.What you need: Safety Glasses! Pulley puller 1/4" quick connect Impact Driver 1/4" quick connect to 1/2" socket conversion bit 5/8" socket 5/32" allen key Digital Multimeter Non-Contact Voltage stick Various Hand-tools and bits. Penetrating Oil/WD-40/Rust Buster etc.STEPS: Lock out the machine you are working on. It takes 30 seconds, and prevents some dingus from energizing the machine when your fingers are somewhere dangerous. Do us both a favor, and be safe. Always double check that the machine is not energized.

I like to use my DMM to check that all phases of power are disconnected. Check L1-L2, L1-L3, L2-L3, and all phases to ground. If the motor you are working on is a single phase motor, watch out for capacitors that may be holding onto a charge.   Use an insulated non contact voltage stick to depress the motor contactor. This is a triple check, just in case your DMM has failed. Remove the belt and all set-screws Liberally apply penetrating oil to as many of the pulley/shaft areas as possible. Wait a few minutes, and do it again.  Set-up your pulley puller, attach your impact driver and pulse the trigger. It's easy to crack a sheave, so try to be gentle. TIPS for ornery difficult to remove pulleys: - If your sheave just won't budge, try removing the key from the shaft. Sometimes you can pull it out, sometimes you have to knock it out with a drift. - If you have clearance behind the sheave, try using a brass rod and a hammer to smash the sheave backwards a touch. Then clean and polish the exposed shaft.

Sometimes a burr or piece of junk prevents the sheave from coming off.  - Sometimes access to the sheave is so terrible, it is easier and faster to remove the motor from the frame and work on a bench.  - If you don't have enough room the get a puller in, try using a pickle fork. - Don't stick your fingers anywhere you wouldn't stick your ... Blower Motors tend to stop working after years and years. Usually it's just that the brushes have worn out (justair conditioner heater floor unit like a starter or alternator), but sometimes the fan seizes up, or leaves manage to get in the system and stuff thingsoutside ac unit runs inside does not In any case, the blower motor on the RX-7 is very easy to remove (at least... compared to many other vehicles).ac and heating window units

A good idea is of course to check the fuses before assuming it's broken. There's also a 4-wire black plastic electrical plug by the blower motor (under the dash on the passenger side), and if you're good with a multi-meter, you can use it to check for power by unplugging the black plug, turning the ignition on, turning the blower switch on, and checking for power across all 4 pins (depending on what speed you set, you may have to check different points to We'll assume you've done all that and you're sure the blower motor's dead/seized/etc. Here's the massive list of tools you'll need: -Ratchet with long extension and a 10mm socket -Phillips (star-shaped) screwdriver (maybe)You might not even need the screwdriver. On the other hand if you plan to take it apart, you'll also need a phillips screwdriver (also known as a star-shaped screwdriver). First, where is the blower motor located? Well, it's under the dash on the passenger side. seat back as far as you can, stick your head under the dash, and look up.

It's a big black circular-ish thing. you have a bad back, it'll probably be sore after this so try to have the tools handy. Now to disconnect it, it's a matter of 3 bolts. 2 are side-by-side and you'll see them when you look up. They look like this: The final one is against the firewall. You may have to peel back the carpet a bit, although usually there's a cut-out so you can see it. You won't have to be upside-down for this one: With those 3 bolts removed, it's just about ready to come out. Usually just 2 things left to disconnect: 1) Electrical plug - near the right side. Both the female and male parts are black and have 4 wires/pins. have other plugs nearby, leave them alone (often a white 4-pronger and a black 2-pronger - dont touch em) 2) A huge squarish tube that goes towards the center. There might be a plastic plug that keeps it together - it comes out easily if you stick the flat screwdriver under it and pry it off. Then the tubing should be able to be pushed

away from the blower motor assembly and taken off. 2b) If you have air conditioning, there may be a box instead of the tube mentioned above. In this case, there might be a metal band held by a phillips screwdriver. Take out the screw, and push the blower assembly away from that black box (it's the air conditioning stuff). Now, pull the thing out. The easiest way is usually to pull it towards you so that the threaded stud sticking out of the firewall clears the fat plastic arm coming from the blower assembly. Then pull it down and out. You may have to wiggle it a bunch or give it some good yanks in multiple directions, but it should come without too much difficulty. Note that this is harder if you have that air conditioning box because you have less room to play with, but it still Finally, once it's most of the way out, the last thing you'll have holding it in is the cable from theYank the cable out of the blower assembly clip, then use the flat screwdriver to pry the

loop off the little flat tab it's on.This is what it should look like: Installation is the opposite of removal! Ideally, you'll have another blower assembly from a parts car or junk yard. If you're intent on re-using yours though (and just fixing whatever's wrong), it can be disassembled. If you're planning to get to the big white circular fan, ignore the rest here but look at the 1 picture below. You'll see a couple metal clips at the bottom left and bottom right. There are more of these (4 in total I believe) but if you take them off you should be able to pry things apart. Otherwise, I'll assume you're looking to get at the brushes. First, remove the 3 screws you see in the belowYou'll also see a yellow arrow in the pic showing a little hose that yanks right off. Now, hand that piece off (sometimes it sticks a little), and you should be looking at something like this: A is an electrical plug - it actually goes to the brushes beneath this metal piece.

it to make things easier. B is the 2 screws that get removed next. Once the screws are removed, the next part is tricky. You want to remove the metal plate, but NOT the other stuff that will stick to it. You may want to use a flat screwdriver to GENTLY PRY the metal piece up, keeping the rubber pieces below the screws DOWN and not attached to the metal. If you mess this up (and end up with the "guts" attached to the metal plate), it's no big deal except that the brushes will pop out and the springs may go flying. Not the end of the world unless you lose them, but try to do it carefully and properly anyway. With that off, you'll be looking at this: Now, you can pull the next piece up slowly, being careful not to have the brushes and springs come flying out. Now, if you have new brushes (I sure hope so, otherwise why did you pull this thing apart?!), you can hopefully do some soldering and get the old ones off and the new ones on.