When your window AC unit stops blowing cold air but is functioning properly in every other regard, it is likely low on coolant. This means that the unit will have to be recharged with a fresh infusion of coolant, likely Freon. That isn’t necessarily a given though. Be sure to research what specific coolant your window air conditioner uses. If it does turn out to be Freon, you can buy a Freon kit, which will include all the tools and instructions necessary to get you through the AC recharge process. Note that Freon is toxic to humans and any handling and safety instructions that come with your kit should be taken very seriously. DISCLAIMER: Depending on your local laws, the use of refrigerants like Freon and even tinkering with the inner workings of an air conditioner unit are illegal unless you are specifically licensed to do so. Look into your local regulations and make sure that you are not breaking any laws by attempting a project like this. Unlike central air conditioner units, window air conditioners only draw power from the wall socket they are plugged into.

Simply removing the plug will ensure that you can open up the machinery and inspect things safely. Some AC units can be opened by simply sliding the front ends out of place, while others will require the aid of a screwdriver. Consult the owner’s manual for your specific device to determine the proper method.hvac package unit system Having successfully opened up your window conditioner, you will need to carefully check for any signs of leakage. 2 ton ac unit for saleIf you locate any leaks, fix them or call in a professional to do so before using the device again. how to break down ac unit for scrapIf no leakage is present, consult the device's owner's manual to determine the proper amount of refrigerant you’ll need to add. Using both the unit’s manual and the tools included in your Freon kit, locate the compressor part of the window AC and the two lines coming off it.

Next, take the service valve from your kit and attach it to the compressor line. The compressor should still have one free, unattached line extending from it. Take this remaining compressor line and attach it to the tap valve, which will also be included in the Freon kit. Attach both of the valves that you’ve just installed, the service and tap valves respectively, to your container of Freon. The kit should contain a detailed diagram showing how to properly position the coolant tank between the two valves. When you’re assured that everything is connected tightly and properly with no potential for leaks, plug in your window AC unit and power it on at its highest setting. With the Freon tank now directly linked to the unit’s inner working via the service valve and tap, the normal flow of air that occurs while the unit is operational will push or “charge” Freon into the unit. When the unit is finished taking in the amount of Freon mentioned in your user manual, power down the unit, unplug it, remove the valves from the compressor, and place the unit back in its housing.

To reiterate, in many parts of the country this work is legally restricted to people who are licensed experts. Assuming you can even legally attempt it, if at any point in the process you become confused or unexpected problems arise, stop what you’re doing immediately and call a professional. When this process is handled incorrectly is can be damaging to the window air conditioning unit and dangerous to the user.How do you add Freon to a window air conditioner? Adding Freon to a window air conditioner involves cleaning the air conditioner, attaching a new Freon container and allowing it to intake new Freon until the container is drained. While this task is usually performed by a refrigeration mechanic, a lay person can complete it by purchasing a Freon kit. Gloves and protective eye wear should be worn when adding Freon to an air conditioner. Refer to the air conditioning unit's user’s manual to ensure that the right type of coolant is used. After taking the air conditioner out of the window, lay it on a level surface near running water.

Clear any dust or dirt from the coils, the louvers or shutters and the air filter. Give these parts time to dry before putting the unit back in place. Do not switch on the power. Upon finding the air conditioner's compressor, remove both valves from the Freon kit. Follow the kit's instructions as to how to attach these valves to the lines of the compressor, and take out the Freon container. Attach it to the valves, turn the unit on, and set the power to the highest level. This setting allows the air conditioner to draw the Freon into its coils. Observe the unit for cooling temperatures. Once all of the Freon is drained from the container, turn the air conditioner off, unplug it, and remove the Freon container. After closing off the compressor's main lines, it is safe to resume use of the unit.The exact amount of Freon needed is determined by a variety of facto... What are some tips for fixing a car's air conditioning? Why does air expand with heat? Where can you find replacement parts for a Country stove?

How do you shop for air mattresses at Target? What are Trane furnace codes? What are the advantages of using an Ashley Wood heater? Can I recharge my window unit air conditioner or do I have to send it to a specialist? The AC unit that I have is about 15 years old (nothing lasts forever)... and I happen to have about 20 lbs of R22 on hand... so I wrote this up. The AC isn't really leaking, but after about 15 years I have lost a couple pounds. Air conditioners do not magically lose refrigerant. If refrigerant is missing, the air-conditioner leaks; if the leak is not fixed, it will continue to leak. A window unit is almost always a bad economic choice to attempt repairs on rather than replacement; since USA-based persons DO need a license to handle refrigerants, and anyone world-wide needs specialized equipment (and one, hopes, enough training to use it correctly), the cost of service (particularly with older, very expensive refrigerants) is far above replacement, particularly when the power efficiency of a newer unit when running is factored into the equation.

The cost of having a qualified, equipped person (or becoming that person) find and repair the leak (on a unit typically not made with ease of service and repair in mind) will almost always exceed the cost of a new unit to replace it. It's a waste of money to try. Especially if you're the guy who pays for the electricity. Captain Kirk didn't beam the Freon out. First, you'll want to fix your Freon leak. After all, air conditioners are generally sealed units, with only electrical wires entering the envelope that contains freon. However, they use a lot of aluminum, as it is a superb themal conductor, and cheap. Accumulated dust in the cooling coils and fins tends to hold water, a perfect storm for aluminum corrosion. Good chance you have a pinhole in the condenser. Likely you have a foreign made pile of junko, so there is nothing in the unit designed to help you. Every inch of tubing in the unit is welded, and there are no spare parts to be had for the mechanical package.

If you have an old school solid American unit, it most likely takes the long-discontinued R12 or R22 Freon, so you are paying top dollar for old stocks. Contrary to what comic books say, a Freon accident will not turn you into Mr. Freeze. Cold is not like fire, you don't instantly feel the pain, you can expose yourself long enough to do damage before you realize it. And there you are, using third party parts of dubious quality, since no manufacturer endorses even authorized repair of the Freon containing machinery - it is not economical even if they made it easy, which is why they don't. Who pays the electricity bill? If it's you, you're paying again to run an old inefficient unit. Ten years ago I bought a solid Sears unit that did 5600 BTU and drew 5 amps. My friend just bought a private label no-brand junko unit that did 8000 BTU for 5 amps. His unit runs 1/3 less often, so he's saving about 200W or 1 KWH every 5 hours. An older unit would be even worse. This is due to Federal laws requiring ever-increasing efficiency.

Then imagine what a quality unit would do. Even if you can get 5 more years out of your old unit, the new unit will pay for itself in electricity costs alone, to say nothing of all that other stuff. So fixing an old unit is a false economy. What you need to know: You are supposed to be EPA certified to work with freon, so the following is only for educational purposes and some pertinent information may be missing. An air conditioner should be cooling the air by about 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. To check that, hold a thermometer in front of the air conditioner where the air is comming out. It should be about 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the temperature of the air in the room (more specifically, 15 to 20 degrees less than the air going into the air conditioner). Window units prior to 2010 primarily use(d) R22 (also called HCFC-22) freon. R410A (also called Puron) is the standard as of 2015. A 5 ton AC unit has 10 to 20 pounds and a 3 ton AC unit has about 6 to 12 pounds of freon.

What do I mean by tons? Tons are kind of like horse power. Tons refers to the amount of ice that would be used to remove a similar amount of heat (and for window AC units, it's around 3 to 5 tons per hour). R22 systems use mineral oil for lubrication whereas R410A uses a synthetic polyolester oil. Mixing refrigerants is illegal in USA. Most window units do not have a port installed so that you can add freon. The larger copper tube leading to the compressor is the low presure side (and the smaller tube is the high pressure side). Generally, about 1 or 2 pounds of refrigerant should be enough to top off one AC unit. How do you measure that? One way is to put the canister of refrigerant on a bathroom scale and weigh it... a bathroom scale might not be perfect, but it should be pretty close. You probably won't need to add more oil. A self piercing valve (currently the price is about $2 to $5) to the low pressure copper tube. The tubing size may be 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8" so you will need to measure that first or get a "universal" piercing valve that accomodates multiple sizes.

A refrigerant refill hose (currently the price is about $10 to $30). Refrigerant: currently the price for R22 is about $260 for 10 lbs and the price will continue to climb until the stocks are depleted; or for R410A refrigerant, the price is currently about $110 for 25 lbs or you can get about 28 oz for about $70. What you need to do: Measure the temperature to see if you need refrigerant. Check the make and model of the air conditioner to find out if you need R22 or R410A. If you need R22 the cheapest option would be to replace the window unit. Measure the size of the low pressure tube and order a self piercing valve. Order the refrigerant and any necessary hoses or connectors. Attach the self piercing valve to the most convenient/accessible location along the low pressure tubing. Turn on the AC unit (max-high) and add the refrigerant while it is running (warning!!! watch out for exposed electrical wires). Don't forget the bathroom scale, to weigh the canister (before and after).