Use of Type UF Cable for AC Unit Is Type UF cable permitted to be used as the supply from an AC disco to the unit without any support when installed outdoors? I can't seem to find any sop where this is OK, please let me know. Re: Use of Type UF Cable for AC Unit Most of the time when we are installing these units we use " liquid tight " for the application and install conductors rated for wet locations. Now I will have to admit many electricians just sleeve 10-2 NM inside the pipe which I am sure could raise a entirly new debate..... However, because of the risk of damage we install " liquidtite" and pull UF cable within it......Sure some will say you should pull individual conductors of like THWN and so on.....which is probably the best.....but in the real world I do not believe we have been turned down for a short 2-3' UF sleeved within Liquidtight.....I like it better than people sleeving NM Cable within it because NM is not rated for the wet location existant in conduit.

Ok...can you run UF to the AC unit from the disconnect.....hmmm.....Is it subject to physical damage?....Probably....another note is UF should be sized based on 60 degree ratings as listed in table 310.16 If you sleeve it...support it 12" from the enclosure.how much does a commercial ac unit cost NFPA 70 (NEC) Code Making Panel 5 and 17 Committee Membercleaning outdoor air conditioner unit NEC Code Questions - Visit http://masterthenec.boards.net/air handling unit working �Promise me you'll always remember: You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think.� -RIP Dad, Love You!. Disclaimer - All my posts on this forum are of my own personal opinion and represent Electrical Code Academy, Inc.

Sad thing is "Liquid Tight " is not protection from Physical Damage either really........but AHJ's have never really had a issue with it. Either way....of the choices.....I would write up the UF as being exposed to damage...... I am guessing that means it was a bootleg job. Is this common around your area? May be right or could have more serious problems of an HVAC nature, like a bad charge. Bootlegged connections and runs abound here out the wahzoo. I routinely find a handyman has installed wiring to an AC unit. They have been known to run NM, UF outside (literally coming out of the soffit down to the unit, no NM clamps) I found one not long ago the fella had run the NM from inside the Air handler closet down through the line set chase out to the outdoor unit. It was bright yellow too for all the world to see. Another time I found someone had used green garden hose for a "sorta" liquidtight FMC to run cable (again NM) out to their shed. Its like anything goes here if you can get away with it.

The best case might be an HVAC guy moonlighting who just didn't have any sealtite on the truck Worst case would be a stolen unit installed by a handyman working out of his trunk. I would also be looking at shortcuts they took in the ductwork and other issues "How to install outdoor wiring" This article states that the NEC requires #12 for all residential wiring.... When did this change ? B.A. King Home Inspections, LLC Serving Charlotte NC area and Rock Hill SC areas. CMI Certified Master Inspector and Independent License NC2449 and SC1597 "Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what no one else has thought." - Albert Szent-Gyvrgyi, Nobel Prize for Medicine 1937 Are you refering to that comment line in the article you posted which I have re-posted below: "The National Electrical Code now requires No. 12 gauge wire for all residential electrical wiring."We are buying # 14 AWG everyday...and just for the record I am NOT one of those who believe every plug in the house should be 12 AWG...sure it has more capacity....but if you KNOW what you are doing and size it correctly...

14 AWG is fine... I am not aware of any stoppage of # 14 AWG....atleast not in the CODE book I use...thehehehe But I can say that 90% of Electricians (in Massachusetts) installing wiring in new construction today, utilize 12 AWG. could be quite possible, however in VA or atleast in the area's I deal with....14 AWG is used with no problems and has been in use since 1928 when NM Cable was introduced. I do not have a problem wiring 14 AWG for bedrooms and general lighting...and guess what...I have done 1,000's of homes....no reports of random tripping yet.....tehehehhe If the client requests 12 AWG we most certainly will run it, they have to also be aware of the additional charge for wire and labor associated with running more 12 AWG wire.for those who say that is not a big difference in labor...they obviously have not done alot of houses in 12 AWG....Kitchens are bad enough...but the entire house....murder in mid-winter.... I dont have a problem with it either way...

Both work fine to me as it ends up being on the shoulders of the electrician to wire the branch circuits correctly and break up the wiring to reduce any potential for Voltage Drop....remember 50' is still a long way...considering all the factors envolved like panel placement and so on....12 AWG...its all good..... Disclaimer - All my posts on this forum are of my own personal opinion and represent Electrical Code Academy, Inc. Applying For My Permit For newly constructed townhouse projects, separate mechanical permits are required. For underground oil tank decommissioning, contact the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality, (503) 229-5263 For asbestos removal contact the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality, (503) 229-5982 Hiring a contractorAll contractors working in the state of Oregon must be licensed by Oregon’s Construction Contractors Board (CCB). The CCB requires licensed contractors to provide their license number on all of their company materials.

The CCB maintains records on licensed contractors and about any claims filed against them. Contact the CCB at (503) 378-4621 or get help with a contractor query at www.ccb.state.or.us. Some of the fees for your mechanical permit are based on the scope of work you are doing. The individual fees are listed on the . To obtain your permit, bring your completed application, additional materials and fees to the Development Services Center Site plans are required for A/C, food heaters and generators Additional permits maybe required (electrical, plumbing, etc.) You will be asked to describe the scope of work proposed and to provide a detailed list of all electrical work you will be doing. If you have questions, please call Residential Mechanical at (503) 823-7388. Drawn plans are usually not necessary to get a residential mechanical permit. A series of inspections could be required for your project. More information on Residential Mechanical Inspections Do I need a Mechanical Permit?