Edit ArticleHow to Install a Split System Air Conditioner Three Parts:Install the Indoor UnitInstall the Outdoor CondenserComplete the Split System Air Conditioner InstallationCommunity Q&A Most people hire a professional to install a split system air conditioner. However, if you have some experience with plumbing and electrical work, you can install the unit on your own. Each split system or ductless air conditioner is unique to its manufacturer, but this article explains the general instructions for installing a split system air conditioner. Select an unobstructed location on your interior wall to mount the indoor air conditioning unit. Avoid direct sunlight and heat sources. Avoid locations where gas may leak or where oil mist or sulphur exists. The indoor unit requires at least 6" (15 cm) of open space surrounding its top and sides. The unit should also be mounted at least 7 feet (2.13 m) above the ground. Install the unit at least 3.3 feet (1 m) away from antenna, power or connecting lines that are used for television, radio, home security systems, intercoms or telephones.

The electrical noise from these sources could cause operational problems for your air conditioner. The wall should be strong enough to hold the weight of the unit. You may need to construct a wood or metal frame to provide added support. Secure the mounting plate to the interior wall. Hold the mounting plate against the wall where you want to install the indoor unit. Use a level to make sure the plate is both horizontally level.ac wall unit wont turn on Drill holes into the wall at appropriate spots to affix the plate to the wall.water under the ac unit Insert plastic anchors into the holes. window ac unit how it worksSecure the plate to the wall with tapping screws. Create a hole in the wall to fit the piping. Find the best spot for the hole to the exterior based on the opening in the mounting bracket.

You should also consider the length of the pipe and the distance that it needs to travel to reach the outside unit. Drill a hole that is 3" (7.5 cm) in diameter through the wall. The hole should slope downward toward the exterior to ensure adequate drainage. Insert a flexible flange into the hole. Check the electrical connections. Lift the unit’s front panel and remove the cover. Be sure the cable wires are connected to the screw terminals. Also, make sure that they match the diagram that comes with the unit. Run the piping from the indoor unit toward the hole drilled through the wall. Minimize bending to ensure that the unit performs well. Cut a length of PVC pipe 1/4" (6 millimeters) shorter than the length between your interior and exterior wall surfaces. Place the pipe cap on the interior end of the PVC pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole in the wall. Bind the copper pipes, the power cables and the drain pipe together with electrical tape.

Place the drain pipe on the bottom to ensure a free flow of water. Secure the pipe to the indoor unit. Use 2 wrenches, working in opposite directions, to tighten the connection. Join the water drainage pipe to the indoor unit’s base. Run the bound pipes and cables through the hole in the wall. Make sure that the drainage pipe allows water to drain in an appropriate place. Secure the indoor unit to the mounting plate by pressing the unit against the mounting plate. Choose the best place to install the outdoor unit. The outdoor unit’s location needs to be away from any heavily trafficked, dusty or hot areas. The outdoor unit needs 12" of space surrounding its perimeter to ensure proper functioning. Lay the concrete pad on the ground and make sure that it is level. The pad should be high enough so that the condenser will sit above the level of winter snows. Set the outdoor condenser on top of the pad. Use rubber cushioning under the unit's feet to minimize vibration.

Make sure that no antenna of a radio or television is within 10 feet (3 meters) of the outdoor condenser. Connect the electrical wires. Refer to the unit’s wiring diagram and make sure the cable wires are connected as the diagram suggests. Following the manufacturer's instructions for wiring is crucial. Fasten the cables with a cable clamp and replace the cover. Secure the pipes’ flare nuts to the corresponding pipes on the outdoor unit. Bleed the air and humidity from the refrigerant circuit. Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port. Connect a vacuum pump hose to the service port. Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg. Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum. Test all of the valves and joints for leaks.Replace the service port and caps. Wrap the joints of the piping with insulating covering and insulating tape. Affix the piping to the wall with clamps.

Seal up the hole in the wall using expanding polyurethane foam. Don't skip the step of insulating the tubing that runs between the indoor and outdoor units. In case the drainage pipe sweats, the insulation will prevent damage to your wall or studs. Provide a dedicated power outlet for your air conditioner. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with your split system air conditioner when you're installing the unit in your home or office. Follow all municipal codes for electrical wiring and other aspects of installation. Some split system air conditioner manufacturers void the unit’s warranty if it is not installed by a licensed tradesman. Do not allow any wiring to touch the compressor, refrigerant tubing or any moving fan parts.Installation Guide for PTACs Designed for a wide range of applications, packaged terminal air conditioner units are ideal for hotels and motels, office buildings, schools and apartments. When installing a Zoneline packaged terminal air conditioner or heat pump, the following checkpoints should be followed to reduce future problems.

Wall case must be level from left-to-right. Wall case must be level from front-to-back (1/4 bubble slope to rear is acceptable if rear drains are used. Case must be level if internal drain is used). Wall case should extend at least 1/4″ to the outside for caulking. Wall case must be sealed/caulked to outside wall on all four (4) sides. Wall case should be sealed/caulked to the inside wall on all four (4) sides. Standard steel wall cases are 42″ W × 16″ H × 13 3/4″ D. 16″, 24″, 28″ and 31″ deep cases are available for thicker walls. Wall case must be installed 3″ to 5″ above floor. Wall case must extend at least 2 3/8″ into room. Sub-Base can be used for electrical connections (check NEC & local codes for compliance). Electrical sub-bases are available in 208/230-volt 15, 20 & 30-amp configurations; 265-volt available in 15, 20, & 30-amp configurations. Remote Wall Thermostat (Optional) Zoneline Heat pumps require 6 wires (min) for remote wall thermostat hook-up.

Zonelines with electric heat and cooling require at least 5 wires for digital remote thermostat hook-up. Standard digital and programmable digital thermostats are available for both heat pumps and electric heat models. 208/230-volt applications use power cords for wall receptacle or sub-base applications. 265-volt applications must be direct connected per NEC. Architectural-3-colors available: Beige, Maple, & Bittersweet Chocolate. Architectural-Extruded anodized aluminum (can be painted to match outdoor motif). Stamped-Standard louvered aluminum grille available. Older architectural grilles can be used if RAK40 baffle kit is installed on chassis. Architectural grilles made by others must have 65% free area. These grilles must have properly located baffles/deflectors or RAK40 kits must be installed on chassis. Grilles not supplied by GE Appliances must be approved by a GE Appliances Applications Engineer to ensure compatibility. Zonelines operated during construction should be cleaned prior to property opening.