Q&A: Do you recommend window or through-the-wall air conditioners? We're going to buy some new room air conditioners and are choosing between through-the-wall units that require a sleeve and window-mounted units. Which do you recommend? If sleeves are installed in your exterior walls, use through-the-wall, or sleeve-type, air conditioners. The sleeves simplify installing and removing the units, and some people prefer the look of through-the-wall models. But sleeve-type air conditioners typically cost more, and you'll have fewer choices when shopping. A couple of things to remember about through-the wall models. The sleeve can restrict airflow or possibly contribute to recirculation of the warm exhaust air back into the louvers on the sides of the units. What's more, unless there's a tight seal inside the room between the sleeve and the air conditioner, warmer outdoor air could enter your home. Both of these problems will cause your air conditioner to work harder and run more, driving up your electricity bill.

If there are no air-conditioner sleeves at your home, go with window-mounted air conditioners. You could add the sleeves, though you'll likely want or have to pay a pro to do the work. No matter which type you choose, be sure you properly install and secure it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Another option is to install a split-ductless air-conditioning system (story available to subscribers). ac unit cost per hourThis setup offers some advantages over other room air conditioners and won't cost that much more to install than adding sleeves for through-the-wall models.   best ac wall unitWhen you're ready to shop for your A/Cs, use our free buyer's guide to air conditioners and check out our updated ratings (available to subscribers). how old is my york ac unit

To take advantage of a cash for appliances rebate, see our interactive map to determine whether incentives are available in your state. Essential information: Maintain your air conditioners and learn how to cut your cooling costs. Build & Buy Car Buying Service Save thousands off MSRP with upfront dealer pricing information and a transparent car buying experience. Get Ratings on the go and compare while you shopA window air conditioning unit, designed for easy installation in a window opening, does a fine job of cooling a room. However, the unit in effect closes the window, preventing you from using the window in mild conditions. An alternative that keeps the room cool, and frees up the window for operation, is to build an air conditioner into a wall so it's permanently installed and out of the way. This works particularly well for cooling a small addition or part of the house that isn't cooled naturally or by other units. When a unit is mounted high on the wall, it does a good job of cooling the space efficiently and effectively.

A key requirement is to place it near a 115-volt electrical outlet, or have one added near the location on the wall. A carpenter will build in a 10,000 BTU energy-efficient air conditioner into a wall for $750, which includes the labor, framing material and the unit. If you have carpentry experience, you can do the job for $550, the cost of the unit and framing material, and save 27 percent. You'll have to cut away enough of the interior wallboard to frame in an opening, and then position the unit in the opening and secure it. Then you cut the siding and trim out the opening on the exterior. You may have to repair and paint the walls and trim if you damage them during installation. Pro Cost -- DIY Cost -- Pro time -- DIY Time -- DIY Savings -- Percent Saved $750 -- $550 -- 6.0 -- 8.5 -- $200 -- 27 Percent Dark meaning of bubble-gum Pumped Up Kicks is tough to chew10 reasons why you want the jobComplications common for adults after tonsillectomy ConnectLike us on FacebookFollow us on Twitter

I'm going to install a through-wall air conditioner using a purpose-built sleeve. The instructions from the manufacturer say to install it such that it angles slightly downwards to the outside (about six degrees) so any condensation or rainwater will run off and drain outside the house. All the instructions and how-to guides I've read show the framing (header, supporting studs, etc.) installed level and at right angles. The only thing I've seen that gives any indication of how to properly arrange the frame to support the downward installation is to install the header 1/4" above the actual size needed for the sleeve opening so that it falls back and down to the outside a bit. Is this the correct way to do this? Should the sleeve be shimmed at the bottom or should the horizontal studs be installed at a slight angle so the sleeve sits flush with the header and horizontal support stud? I haven't done this before so any insight on how to get the installation angle correct and still maintain a proper safe and secure installation is appreciated.

walls air-conditioning installation framing It's much easier to check that something is level than to check that something is 6 degrees or 1/4 inch higher.Then add a 1/4 inch strip of wood (a length of lath or trim) across the inside edge of the horizontal framing member. You are correct that the sleeve will be sitting on two edges, the added trim strip and the outside edge of the exterior horizontal member. But the air conditiner is quite rigid and the sleeve sufficiently so to resist flex. The weight is not so great that the boards will be compressed or the machine flexed. It's quite easy to check that something is at a particular angle. Just put the appropriately sized block on your level at the appropriate distance, and make your level (with the block) level. Your off-level surface makes a right triangle with respect to an imaginary (or provided by your level) level surface. The level is the "adjacent" side of the angle, the surface is the hypotenuse, and the opposite side is the block.

tan is the function that gives you "opposite over adjacent" so it's the one to size a block on the level. This is what your teacher should have answered when someone asked "if there was a use for trigonometry in real life." For 6 degrees, tan=0.105104235265677 (-ish - and be sure to use a calculator in degree mode, not radians mode) so you measure out the level an appropriate distance (for the size of what you are building, or the length of the level if it's shorter than what you are building) and install a block of the correct size. If 6", 0.63" (5/8" for most intents and purposes) 1.26" if you have 12", etc... 1/4" only gives you 6 degrees if it's 2.37" or so from the other support. It's handy technique to have in the bag. 1/8" per foot plumbing is a 1/2" block on a 4 foot level. 1/16" per foot plumbing is a 1/4" block on a 4 foot level. You can use the same technique or a speed square if you need to mark angled cuts.Browse other questions tagged walls air-conditioning installation framing or ask your own question.