Here are some basic split airconditioner control troubleshooting guide that may help you to understand more of the electronics control of your equipment. This is a non-inverter type of control.Take note that you need to have a good electrical knowledge to do this as the power supply to the printed circuit board is LIVE. It is always a good practice to disconnect and isolate the power supply when you are troubleshooting the control board. If you are not sure, get a qualified technician to check your unit. A split air conditioner is also commonly known as ductless split or mini split where there is an outdoor unit and an indoor unit. The outdoor unit consists of a compressor, a fan and the condenser. This is the place where heat from the indoor is transferred from the indoor to the outdoor and is rejected to the surrounding. The indoor unit basically consists of an evaporator, an expansion valve and a fan. Copper pipes are used to connect the flow of refrigerant between the indoor unit and the outdoor unit.

The power input can come from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. The non-inverter split air conditioner basically consists of a ON/OFF compressor where the compressor is either ON fully or OFF fully. The inverter based compressor can regulate the speed of the compressor depending on the load required.Here is the breakdown of the typical controller for better understanding.Main Control Printed Circuit BoardThe main control board can be divided into input power supply, a microcomputer controller integrated circuit, temperature sensor inputs and outputs to control the compressor, indoor fan speed, outdoor fan speed and air swing. The AC input from the mains has to be converted to DC voltage where it can be used to power the integrated circuits and drivers in the electronics circuit. There are two ways to do this. One is by using a step down transformer where the AC voltage is stepped down to voltage such as 25V AC or 12V AC. This voltage is then converted to DC by the use of diode bridge as rectifier and electrolytic capacitor to smoothen the rectified voltage.

A 3-pin voltage regulator is used to get a fixed 5V DC or 12V DC power supply. This low voltages are used to power the microcomputer, DC relays and other integrated circuits in the circuit.how to secure ac unit in window A simple linear power supply circuit.air conditioning unit single room The other method is to use switched mode power supply or SMPS which makes the dimension of the printed circuit board smaller as the bulky transformer can now be replaced with a smaller transformer. ac and heating brandsThis design is becoming more common as the quest for smaller space is becoming more critical.There is usually a surge absorber or a varistor connected across the input of the power supply. This device acts to protect the internal circuit in the event of lightning or power surge.

When the power input to the device exceeded its voltage rating, it will clamp the voltage by bypassing it to the input source. This is one device that can be easily damaged if the power surge or lightning occurred beyond its maximum rating.A fuse is placed in series with the input power supply to cutoff any overcurrent or short circuit that happened in the circuit. This is another protective device used in most electronics circuit. It has to be replaced once it is blown.In order for the handheld remote control to send the settings to the controller at the air conditioner unit, there is at least an infra-red receiver printed circuit board that receives the signals from the handset. This receiver is usually located in front of the indoor unit and can be identified by a specially made sticker that allow infra-red frequency to pass through.Also known as handset, this is where you can control the air conditioner settings remotely by pointing your handset towards the air conditioning unit.

Temperature, timer, operating mode, energy saving function, air swing direction, fan speed, ionizer and sleep mode are some of the functions that are usually available depending on the manufacturer of the unit.Split Airconditioner Control Troubleshooting GuideHere is a list of split airconditioner control troubleshooting guide that you can use if you need to troubleshoot your split air conditioner unit. When troubleshooting, make sure mains power is disconnected before proceeding to check the printed circuit board to prevent electric shock. Back To Split Airconditioner Control Troubleshooting Home PageEdit ArticleHow to Install a Split System Air Conditioner Three Parts:Install the Indoor UnitInstall the Outdoor CondenserComplete the Split System Air Conditioner InstallationCommunity Q&A Most people hire a professional to install a split system air conditioner. However, if you have some experience with plumbing and electrical work, you can install the unit on your own. Each split system or ductless air conditioner is unique to its manufacturer, but this article explains the general instructions for installing a split system air conditioner.

Select an unobstructed location on your interior wall to mount the indoor air conditioning unit. Avoid direct sunlight and heat sources. Avoid locations where gas may leak or where oil mist or sulphur exists. The indoor unit requires at least 6" (15 cm) of open space surrounding its top and sides. The unit should also be mounted at least 7 feet (2.13 m) above the ground. Install the unit at least 3.3 feet (1 m) away from antenna, power or connecting lines that are used for television, radio, home security systems, intercoms or telephones. The electrical noise from these sources could cause operational problems for your air conditioner. The wall should be strong enough to hold the weight of the unit. You may need to construct a wood or metal frame to provide added support. Secure the mounting plate to the interior wall. Hold the mounting plate against the wall where you want to install the indoor unit. Use a level to make sure the plate is both horizontally level.

Drill holes into the wall at appropriate spots to affix the plate to the wall. Insert plastic anchors into the holes. Secure the plate to the wall with tapping screws. Create a hole in the wall to fit the piping. Find the best spot for the hole to the exterior based on the opening in the mounting bracket. You should also consider the length of the pipe and the distance that it needs to travel to reach the outside unit. Drill a hole that is 3" (7.5 cm) in diameter through the wall. The hole should slope downward toward the exterior to ensure adequate drainage. Insert a flexible flange into the hole. Check the electrical connections. Lift the unit’s front panel and remove the cover. Be sure the cable wires are connected to the screw terminals. Also, make sure that they match the diagram that comes with the unit. Run the piping from the indoor unit toward the hole drilled through the wall. Minimize bending to ensure that the unit performs well.

Cut a length of PVC pipe 1/4" (6 millimeters) shorter than the length between your interior and exterior wall surfaces. Place the pipe cap on the interior end of the PVC pipe. Insert the pipe into the hole in the wall. Bind the copper pipes, the power cables and the drain pipe together with electrical tape. Place the drain pipe on the bottom to ensure a free flow of water. Secure the pipe to the indoor unit. Use 2 wrenches, working in opposite directions, to tighten the connection. Join the water drainage pipe to the indoor unit’s base. Run the bound pipes and cables through the hole in the wall. Make sure that the drainage pipe allows water to drain in an appropriate place. Secure the indoor unit to the mounting plate by pressing the unit against the mounting plate. Choose the best place to install the outdoor unit. The outdoor unit’s location needs to be away from any heavily trafficked, dusty or hot areas. The outdoor unit needs 12" of space surrounding its perimeter to ensure proper functioning.

Lay the concrete pad on the ground and make sure that it is level. The pad should be high enough so that the condenser will sit above the level of winter snows. Set the outdoor condenser on top of the pad. Use rubber cushioning under the unit's feet to minimize vibration. Make sure that no antenna of a radio or television is within 10 feet (3 meters) of the outdoor condenser. Connect the electrical wires. Refer to the unit’s wiring diagram and make sure the cable wires are connected as the diagram suggests. Following the manufacturer's instructions for wiring is crucial. Fasten the cables with a cable clamp and replace the cover. Secure the pipes’ flare nuts to the corresponding pipes on the outdoor unit. Bleed the air and humidity from the refrigerant circuit. Remove the caps from the 2-way and 3-way valves and from the service port. Connect a vacuum pump hose to the service port. Turn the vacuum on until it reaches an absolute vacuum of 10mm Hg.

Close the low pressure knob and then turn off the vacuum. Test all of the valves and joints for leaks.Replace the service port and caps. Wrap the joints of the piping with insulating covering and insulating tape. Affix the piping to the wall with clamps. Seal up the hole in the wall using expanding polyurethane foam. Don't skip the step of insulating the tubing that runs between the indoor and outdoor units. In case the drainage pipe sweats, the insulation will prevent damage to your wall or studs. Provide a dedicated power outlet for your air conditioner. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with your split system air conditioner when you're installing the unit in your home or office. Follow all municipal codes for electrical wiring and other aspects of installation. Some split system air conditioner manufacturers void the unit’s warranty if it is not installed by a licensed tradesman. Do not allow any wiring to touch the compressor, refrigerant tubing or any moving fan parts.