how much to replace an ac unit

340 posts, read 414,887 times 1,135 posts, read 1,624,739 times 589 posts, read 882,928 times 1,345 posts, read 1,756,296 times 5,150 posts, read 5,049,224 times 8,406 posts, read 14,815,803 times Originally Posted by Glmore My home is 1600 sq. ft. , and I replaced the 3.5 ton AC unit and air handler a couple years ago for $2900. That is closer to the lower end than the higher end. The furnace was, and is, fine. Someone said 1 ton per 500 sq. ft., and I agree. I wanted supercooling ability, but was told if the unit cools the home too quickly, it doesn't remove enough humidity. I didn't understand that when I did the first system 12 years ago, but I learned.But in homes the size of yours and mine, zoning simply means closing a vent or two to redirect the air. The master suite is upstairs in my tri-level home, and I closed all the vents on the bottom floor to force more cool air into the master suite, It works well, since I don't use the downstairs bedrooms, They stay cooler anyway, year round.
Our homes aren't big enough to warrant a true zoned system. Originally Posted by Sean_CLTremove ac unit Good luck selling that house. ac unit is not workingYou may not be able to have window units depending on your neighborhood rules. hvac 5 ton costWindow units are noisy, air leaks around them, bugs can get in, they are easily stolen and provide an easy entrance for would-be burglars, etc. They are a last resort IMHO. 104 posts, read 221,403 times Originally Posted by vmaxnc Some good info .....could you PM me the company you used for your AC replacement? 3,915 posts, read 2,674,064 times Having paid to replace several ACs myself in different homes, I will add the following. If you are comfortable in your home now, then there isn't any need to change how it works by adding zones, etc.
If it is a builder grade system you are changing, you should however look at increasing the efficiency and reducing the noise while you have the opportunity to do so. Stick to a middle of the range unit. That last % or so of efficiency isn't worth it. You should probably pay for a 2 speed system. They mostly operate at low speed but have the ability to shift higher during periods of a lot of heat or if you change the temp. Most contractors will include venting changes during the install. If you have a vent that is too little or too much, or a room that isn't heated or cooled properly, this is the time to tell them about it. Since you are doing a preemptive install, i.e. it's still working, I'd recommend waiting until they are in a slow period which would be the fall or spring. There are better deals then. Don't forget to check for rebates including those from the power company. 101 posts, read 141,257 times Originally Posted by Jareb Does this rule of thumb apply equally to one and two story homes?
Does it apply in a linear fashion as square footage increases? I seem to be ok with two 2.5 ton units cooling a 3,600 square foot two-story house.Thousands of homeowners across the country will be faced with making the quick decision to replace their air conditioners this summer. With high temperatures, you can’t always risk being without cooling for very long — when you must replace your air conditioner in the middle of cooling season, you won’t have as much time to research and evaluate your options as you would when replacing in the off-season, where cooling isn’t critical. Just because a breakdown forces you to purchase a replacement quickly doesn’t mean you have to do so uninformed — ask your HVAC contractor these questions to help determine the right choice for your home and family. Ask Your Contractor These 5 Questions… Which type of system is best for me? A good contractor will evaluate your home and discuss with you the functionality you want in order to provide you with sound advice regarding which type of system is best for your home.
For example, in homes with failing or nonexistent ductwork, a multi-unit ductless mini-split system may be the right choice for you. Your contractor can answer any questions you have about using a mini-split, central AC, or heat pump in your home. What size do I need? Size does matter when it comes to your air conditioner — undersized and oversized units will consume excessive energy while causing comfort issues in the home. In order to determine the correct size unit and configuration for your home, your contractor should perform a Manual J cooling load calculation. Are there other things that need done to my home to accommodate installation? The air conditioner itself is just one piece of the cooling system — other components include your duct work, thermostat, and air handler, amongst others. Replacement or repairs to these components may be necessary to accommodate the installation of your new air conditioner and facilitate efficient operation. Your new high-efficiency air conditioner won’t offer the savings you expect if your conditioned air is leaking out the duct system!
Have your contractor evaluate all the components of your cooling system to see if other work is needed. What do SEER ratings mean? SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. The higher the ration, the greater efficiency of the system. All air conditioners must be at least 13 SEER, but SEER ratings go all the way up to 23. If you decide to go with a heat pump, you’ll be looking at HSPF ratings (Heating and Seasonal Performance Factor). These equipment efficiency ratings will have a great impact on the energy use and operating costs of your new unit, and your contractor can help you estimate your monthly or annual costs associated with the new unit. Higher efficiency units typically cost more to purchase, but their savings can result in quick payback periods. What’s the warranty term and what does it include? Manufacturers’ warranties cover various parts for a specific period of time. Make sure you know what is covered on your new unit and how long the warranty lasts so you can have qualifying work performed under the warranty if needed, rather than paying out of pocket.