I recently bought a portable air conditioner and was wondering if it is absolutely necessary to vent it to the outside. I plan on using it in a room that doesn't have a window as was wondering if I could vent it to another room in the house without doing any damage (eg mold growing in the house). I understand the air coming out of the AC will be warm and would warm up the room it was venting into. It's possible but it will be creating a situation where your a/c is fighting against itself, because you'll simply be redistributing the heat inside your house, instead of putting it on the outside.Because the warm air will creep back into the room you were cooling, so the a/c will be acting like a big do-nothing machine - to a degree anyway. Mold isn't going to be too concerning, however, because you won't be taking moisture out of the one room and putting it into the other - the moisture in the air in the warm room may increase a little (because warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air, so if moisture is there, it'll get picked up) but not to the degree it would if you were

, say, venting a dryer into that room, where you'd be introducing lots of NEW moisture. All that said - I do not recommend this idea. Better to create a vent/opening (properly, of course, but that's a different question) in the outside wall to allow the warm air to go where it is supposed to. Moisture is a problem. Air conditioners actively remove moisture from the cooled space and deliver it into the warmed space. One of the main features of air conditioning is dehumidification. The warmer air in the discharge room may already be heavily saturated with moisture, and the even hotter air coming from the discharge chute will add to that moisture. Prolonged use could lead to mold problems. Further, interior walls of houses are rarely insulated, so the walls between the cooled room and now super-heated room will transmit the heat back to the cooled room. Also, air leaks will filter some warm air back. This will not totally overcome the cooling effect (we often air-condition one room and not another) but it will diminish the value and efficientcy, since the now heated room is much warmer than it normally would be.

Overall it is a bad idea. It is possible to create a small panel captive in a window that can hold the discharge chute of the air conditioner to vent outside. Yes, it will work in terms of cooling the room, but it won't be as efficient as an external vent. If you have the door to the cooled room closed and as air tight as possible, the adjacent room being warm is like the outside of the house being warm. Yes, there will be some unwanted heat transfer but there will still be a temperature differential. The best thing is to try it and see if it is cool enough for you and if the cost in power is worth it. As for your question about moisture, the answer is "it depends". A typical full house AC has no moisture connection between the cool side and the warm side. All water taken out of the cooled air goes into a drip tray and then a drain. The more modern window AC are designed so that the water from the drip tray can hit the condenser coils to help cool them off, improving their SEER.

This is a moisture path to the exhaust. Some portable AC have a drain hose and that means no added moisture in the exhaust. DeLonghi portable air conditioners exhaust warm moisture-filled air out their exhaust hoses, so there is less condensate to empty manually. But this means the exhaust has the extra moisture removed from the cooled air. However, if the cooled room does not have a constant source of additional moisture, this may not be a problem for the room receiving the exhaust. how much does it cost to charge a ac unitIt would be best if that room had an open window or two.best ac units to buy No, then it will not be operating as an AC. used ac unit for mobile homeWhy would you want to? Trying to cool a large space beyond the ACs listed capacity?

Or simply lacking a duct extension that will reach an external opening? How about keeping the portable air conditioner outside the window and vent in only the cool air in. Just the reverse of conventional portable ducting. This will keep all the noise and heat outside the window and only cool air is allowed to enter through duct. I have the same situation, only a sliding glass door. Next to it is a floor vent where the heat comes out during the winter. To fix the problem I removed the vent cap, and connected the hot air flow vent to the floor to blow into my duct work. The air actually cools off before it gets to any other room. I set the AC on a boot pan, and ran a round drainage hose out the sliding glass door. The door remains open about an inch, and I put a strip of foam down the door. Then I cut a piece of broomstick to wedge the door closed so it will not open for security purposes. Put the vent hose in a bucket filled with water, the air heats the water not the room.

The water will evaporate creating humidity for the air conditioner. Just add water as needed. That's what I do for my room. Although I don't vent mine out the window for security reasons. Vent it into the attic space making sure to cover the output hose with window screening. What are the recommended settings for an air conditioning unit that is dual-zone? Meaning, if I have a house that is two stories I know that in Florida they recommend you keep it at 78 F in the summer and 69 in the winter, but the top half of the house will always get hotter (and colder in the winter). So what are the recommended settings for a house in a configuration like this that achieve the best of comfort and energy savings? A simple solution is just to set the thermostats up with an allowance between them to compensate for the thermal convection. This allowance is usually around two degrees, depending on ceiling heights on each floor. For example, if your preferred temperature in the Summer is 74°F, set the downstairs thermostat to 73°F, and the upstairs to 75°F, in effect bracketing your desired set point.

The same two degree difference will usually be sufficient in the Winter as well. Just remember to always have the higher temperature on the higher floor. For three story homes, a one degree difference between each floor may be sufficient, depending on how high the ceilings of each floor are. Just as with the two story home, the highest temperature always goes on the highest floor, no matter what the season. There are many factors to take into consideration when talking energy efficiency and comfort. Your comfort level may like a house at 69F in the winter, but other members of the household may feel "chilled to the bone". Also, the quality and efficiency of the insulation in each region (outer walls, door seals, attic/roof insulation, etc) will have a direct bearing on any energy efficiency values. Another factor to consider, which recommendations usually take for granted, is what is the usage of each floor, and are both floors above ground or is it a 1st/main floor and a basement?

For example, if the upstairs contains only rooms which are used primarely in the evenings and at night, they can typically stay a little warmer during the day in the summer, since the majority of the time isn't spent there, just as keeping a living/media room warm overnight in the winter typically isn't necessary... unless there is a reason to (plants, temperature sensitive equipment, etc). Ideally you need a 2 zone HVAC system for your house if you're trying to maintain an upstairs/downstairs sort of temperature control scheme. This is definitely a good idea in terms of energy savings; you don't want to fully heat or cool those areas which aren't occupied. Several questions come up: Is there a fixed occupancy schedule for both areas? What is your primary concern - energy savings or comfort? Without a sophisticated HVAC controls system in place you're basically going to be tied to a time based control scheme, so you need to figure out when you're going to be upstairs vs downstairs and home/not home so you can modify your thermostat settings accordingly.