I have a 2004 Yukon with 160000 miles and about a year ago the AC would suddenly blow hot air just on the driver's side while the passenger side still blew cold. After a few weeks it then stating blowing hot air on both sides. The only way to correct it was to turn the car off and back on and then it would immediately start blowing cold again. Sometimes go 30-40mins with it blowing cold and then suddenly hot air and sometimes just 5-10mins. Recently I changed the pressure switch and and checked the pressure. The pressure was good. I am not sure if the pressure switch had anything to do woth this but immediatley after changing the switch, when the system would stop blowing cold air it was just the driver's side again and not both. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Did you find out the exact issue? 05 Yukon XL does the exact same 42 out of 42 people think this isThe blend door actuator has some grease on the contactsSee how to do it here==> 187 out of 187 people think this is

You must relearn your actuator to blow hot or cold correctly. Turn on your A/C to the highest blower setting and let it run 5 minutes, then dial up the heat leaving the blower in highest position for five minutes. this should resent your actuator to correctly blow hot or cold. that's one way to fix it. I unplugged the old actuator planning to install my new one and decided to wait till the next day. how to choose window air conditioner unitI plugged the old actuator back in and drove to the store and it blew cold air all the way and has not blown hot for over two months now. cost of new heating cooling systemI even got a refund for the new one I had bought. ac unit installed costRemember, if you blowing cold or hot air the actuator is working..

but it's out of sync..try these things before wasting your money on a new unneeded part. 33 out of 33 people think this is I relearned my actuator like David said and my AC works fine. in the truck for twenty minutes to test it out and it did not blow hot air. Will see if problem persists tomorrow. This happened on a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 Liter. 4 out of 4 people think this is I tried the relearning but the thing wouldn't stay cold forI found the directions to clean the actuator but it assumes one knows where the heck that is? you point me in the right direction? is this something I can reach without dismantling the dash? I'm in a 2002 suburban--same issue as the Tahoe, Silverado, 1500, seems like most Chevy trucks over 10 years old.... 18 out of 18 people think this is Here is my situation on 2012 GMC Acadia. Tried relearn trick no change. Plenty of power coming out of vents, def both very hot and reasonably cold.

I have read so much it's all overwhelming, any easy things to try or look for? How easy/hard to change the actuator and I assume you would only need to change drivers side? Sorry everyone car newbie, I appreciate ANY feedback. 5 out of 5 people think this isMy Car is a tahoe 2009 cherlot and it 2 out of 2 people think this is When I turn the a/c on in my 2004 tahoe it blows hot air out the vent for about 10 seconds and then it goes up to the defroster and blows nothing but hotI took it to the shop to get the a/c charged and they said it's already charged just not switching over from heat to a/c. Do I have to replace the airMy (ex)wife had a 2004 Toyota Highlander that was exhibiting some strange issues with the A/C and heat. In the summer while driving with the A/C on it would randomly just switch to heat and just as randomly switch back later. Sometimes bumps would trigger it or a sharp turn. Same would occur in the winter while using the heat.

It would randomly switch to A/C and back. The problem was pretty annoying but I suspect fearing the possible cost to repair kept her from bringing it in for service. The issue seemed to get worse over time and with the horrible Louisiana summer heat and humidity quickly approaching she finally brought it in to get inspected and to get a quote. The shop she brought it to “checked it” and told her it was the “temperature control actuator”. They told her it would cost about $500 to fix. After getting this information I went to Autozone and O’Reilly’s trying to find this part and what it costs. Neither could find this part. This made me pretty curious and wondered why no one could identify the part. So I went sit in my car and whipped out the iPhone to Google this part and figure out what was going on. I didn’t find any mention of a “temperature control actuator” for a Toyota Highlander but I did find lots of information pointing to what appeared to be the same A/C issue with the Highlander by many people.

I found many complaining that they had to replace the A/C control assembly to fix the problem. The A/C control assembly sells between $700 – $1000, just depends on where you get it. Labor to replace it was between $300-$500. Many reported paying or getting quotes between $1200 – $1500 to replace it. This was not looking good. I went back inside the store and confirmed the part was $700+ but they didn’t have it. Turns out this was a good thing. It caused me to go back to the car and start searching for that part. This time, I stumbled across someone who was a mechanic who ran across this problem with a client. He mentioned that after he took everything apart thinking he was going to have to replace the A/C control assembly he found the real problem. Apparently the issue is with the temperature control switch (knob) and the three wires connecting it to the control assembly circuit board had broken. This was especially interesting because it really seemed like it made more sense to me.

The fact that bumps in the road would cause this to work and not work really made me think this was a short or something along those lines. I didn’t buy the other explanations personally because most of them would have only accounted for it not working entirely and not sporadically.I decided this broken wire issue had to be the problem and I would at least check this out before spending any money. Figured I didn’t have anything to lose by confirming this. I went home and went straight at it. Tore the center console apart and got to the control panel. Tore the control panel apart and got to the circuit board (control assembly). Sure enough two of the three wires connecting the temperature control to the circuit board had broken off.Got it soldered again and everything reassembled and sure enough, it is working like a champ and cost NOTHING to fix it! Sad that most places wouldn’t attempt to solder it back but rather would just charge people $1500 to replace the whole control assembly.

Anyway… with all that said I thought I would share and detail the process for others in the hopes of saving others a ton of money in the future. I highly recommend doing as others have suggested and replacing the ribbon cable you need to solder back together. Part of the problem with the current design seems to be that the ribbon cable is too short. This causes added tension when things are put together and adds to the issue with the wire breaking. Also, you will or should know how to clean the old solder from the holes on the circuit board in order to correctly solder things back together. Use a desoldering pump to assist with this. If you don’t know how to solder you might be able to find a small local computer repair shop or trade school with people willing to do it for very cheap. Appreciate all the great feedback this post has been getting, makes you feel good to hear the positive comments. 5/30/2011 – Just slightly over a year since I put this post up and I think we have easily helped over 100 people either DIY or with slight help (soldering isn’t for everyone, thank God for computer or TV repair shops).

At an average of $800 to have someone replace this board or Toyota to fix it well it looks like we have saved about $80,000 total. I know that number is on the short side too. Maybe I should get into the Highlander AC repair business. Hope everyone continues to find success with this and please continue to share your success here. It’s a great feeling to get to read all these comments! emove the knobs. These simply pull right off. emove the trim panel from the center console. Start at the bottom on one side and then the other. Work your way to the top. This is easily done with no tools and just a little force. here are six 10mm bolts to remove that are holding the center console in place. (Three on each side of console) emove two screws from both sides of the assembly. ry the bracket away from the control assembly in order to clear the alignment pins. nplug the wiring from the control assembly. There are three things to unplug. ou should now have the control assembly module completely removed from the console. I

n order to access the circuit board inside the black plastic housing of the control assembly, you will need to remove the screws holding the rear plastic cover on. Once the screws are removed you can separate the two pieces slowly. You can only separate it slightly as there is a ribbon cable connecting one circuit board to the other. I pried one side (where the cable was) apart and then used a butter knife to release the connector for the ribbon cable. Once the cable is free you can completely separate the two pieces. emove the screws and clips holding the circuit board in place. emove the nuts that hold the switches in place. ith the circuit boards and switches removed from the assembly, I could now see the real problem. Two of the three wires that connect the switch to the circuit board were broken. Clean away the old solder and wire pieces. You should have three clean holes on the switch board in which to re-solder the wires to. I’m no expert on soldering but it wasn’t hard at all. I