When your cars air conditioning starts to blow hot air our suddenly then this is an indication you have a refrigerant leak, AC electrical problem or clogged condenser. Your car uses a refrigerant in the AC system to remove heat out of the inside of the car making the car become cooler. If your AC system develops a refrigerant leak in the system from a leaky connection or damaged AC hose, the refrigerant will evaporate and make the air conditioner loose its performance. If the AC system has an electrical problem such as a switch or wire that has shorted and blown a fuse, then the air conditioning system will malfunction. If your air conditioning system starts to blow hot air out over time, this is a sign that there is a small leak with the system or you could have a clogged condenser. A small leak in your system will slowly drain the refrigerant and the air coming out will gradually get warmer. The same happens when the condenser is clogged. The condenser in your car acts as a mini radiator that will remove the heat that the refrigerant absorbed from in the car.

Over time the condenser can get clogged from debris and dirt coming from the road. This can slowly reduce the performance of the AC and your car will start to blow warm air. In order to fix this problem you need to remove the dirt that has built up on the condenser. By using a little liquid dish soap in warm water and spraying it on the condenser will remove the dirt. The best option is to put it in a garden sprayer and apply it. Let it soak for about 10 minutes then rinse off with clean water. It is important to remove all the soapy water so it does not leave a film on the condenser. If you are unable to determine the problem it is best to take it to a mechanic that specializes in automotive air conditioning repair.I have a 2004 Yukon with 160000 miles and about a year ago the AC would suddenly blow hot air just on the driver's side while the passenger side still blew cold. After a few weeks it then stating blowing hot air on both sides. The only way to correct it was to turn the car off and back on and then it would immediately start blowing cold again.

Sometimes go 30-40mins with it blowing cold and then suddenly hot air and sometimes just 5-10mins. Recently I changed the pressure switch and and checked the pressure. The pressure was good. I am not sure if the pressure switch had anything to do woth this but immediatley after changing the switch, when the system would stop blowing cold air it was just the driver's side again and not both. main parts of ac unitAny insight would be greatly appreciated.can i install a window ac unit on its side Did you find out the exact issue? how much does an ac unit cost for a house 05 Yukon XL does the exact same 42 out of 42 people think this isThe blend door actuator has some grease on the contactsSee how to do it here==>

187 out of 187 people think this is You must relearn your actuator to blow hot or cold correctly. Turn on your A/C to the highest blower setting and let it run 5 minutes, then dial up the heat leaving the blower in highest position for five minutes. this should resent your actuator to correctly blow hot or cold. that's one way to fix it. I unplugged the old actuator planning to install my new one and decided to wait till the next day. I plugged the old actuator back in and drove to the store and it blew cold air all the way and has not blown hot for over two months now. I even got a refund for the new one I had bought. Remember, if you blowing cold or hot air the actuator is working..but it's out of sync..try these things before wasting your money on a new unneeded part. 33 out of 33 people think this is I relearned my actuator like David said and my AC works fine. in the truck for twenty minutes to test it out and it did not blow hot air. Will see if problem persists tomorrow.

This happened on a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 Liter. I tried the relearning but the thing wouldn't stay cold forI found the directions to clean the actuator but it assumes one knows where the heck that is? you point me in the right direction? is this something I can reach without dismantling the dash? I'm in a 2002 suburban--same issue as the Tahoe, Silverado, 1500, seems like most Chevy trucks over 10 years old.... 18 out of 18 people think this is Here is my situation on 2012 GMC Acadia. Tried relearn trick no change. Plenty of power coming out of vents, def both very hot and reasonably cold.I have read so much it's all overwhelming, any easy things to try or look for? How easy/hard to change the actuator and I assume you would only need to change drivers side? Sorry everyone car newbie, I appreciate ANY feedback.My Car is a tahoe 2009 cherlot and it When I turn the a/c on in my 2004 tahoe it blows hot

air out the vent for about 10 seconds and then it goes up to the defroster and blows nothing but hotI took it to the shop to get the a/c charged and they said it's already charged just not switching over from heat to a/c. Do I have to replace the air My 05 Chevy Suburban started doing that And there are 3 separate controls one for front one for mid row and one for third row seat, front won't work at all back two onlyAny idea what that's about?There is never a good time for your air conditioning in your car to stop working, but it typically seems to happen in the dead heat of summer. If your AC system has either quit working or has stopped working well, you're faced with driving your vehicle around with the windows down - which brings little relief when it is hot outside. Having some knowledge about how the air conditioning works in your vehicle can help you get the system functioning again. Your car's air conditioning system works just like a refrigerator or your home air conditioning.

The purpose of the system is to remove hot air from the inside of your vehicle. It consists of the following components:The purpose of the compressor is to pressurize the air conditioning system and circulate the refrigerant. It's located at the front of the engine and is typically driven by the main drive belt.The condenser is located in the front of the radiator and is used to remove heat from the refrigerant.The evaporator is located inside the dash of the vehicle and is used to absorb heat from the interior of the car. Component 4: Metering device. This is known as a metering tube or an expansion valve and can be located either under the dash or under the hood near the fire wall. Its purpose is to change the pressure in the air conditioning system from high pressure to low pressure. Component 5: Hoses or lines. These consist of metal and rubber lines to carry the refrigerant.Typically, all systems today contain R-134A refrigerant. This can be purchased over the counter at most auto parts stores.

Older vehicles were built with R-12, which is no longer used because it contained high amounts of ozone depleting compounds. If you have a license and certification you can still purchase this, though most people opt to retrofit this system to the newer R-134A refrigerant. Though these are the primary components of the air conditioning system, your vehicle has a series of electrical circuits that allow it to function, as well as a dash system that contains numerous doors that move within the dash that can affect effectiveness. Below are the most common causes of poor air conditioning performance and what can be done to get you comfortably back on the road. When performing any air conditioning system service you must have the proper tools - and exercise caution when when using them. Reason 1: High pressure. The air conditioning system is filled with high pressure refrigerant, and can operate at over 200 psi, which can be very dangerous. Reason 2: High temperature. Parts of the AC system can reach well over 150 degrees Fahrenheit so be very careful when coming in contact with parts of the system.

Reason 3: Moving parts. You must watch out for moving parts under the hood while the engine is running. Keep all articles of clothing tightly secured. Air conditioning manifold gauge set Warning: Never add anything but the recommended refrigerant to the AC system. Warning: Always wear safety glasses when servicing any pressurized system. Warning: Never install the gauges with the system running. Step 1: Park your vehicle on a level surface. Step 2: Place the wheel chocks around the driver side rear tire. Step 3: Open the hood. Step 4: Locate the air conditioning compressor. Step 5: Turn on the AC. Turn the air conditioning on in the vehicle and see if that clutch that was previously stationary is now engaged. Step 6: Turn the fan to Medium. If the compressor clutch engaged, return to the inside of your vehicle and turn the fan speed to Medium. Step 7: Check the air temperature. See if the temperature of the air coming from the main dash vents is cold.

Read the parts below to understand the different conditions that you may see: When performing your initial check, if air does not come from the center dash vents or if the air is coming from the wrong vents (such as the floor or windshield vents) then you have a problem with the interior climate control system. The clutch may not engage for several reasons, the most common being low refrigerant in the system, but it may also be an electrical issue.Voltage is not sent to the clutch when the air conditioning is turned on due to an open circuit in the electrical circuit. Reason 2: Pressure switch. An air conditioning system pressure switch can disrupt the circuit if certain pressures are not met or if the switch is failing. Reason 3: Input issue. More up to date systems are computer controlled and use numerous other inputs including vehicle interior and exterior temperature to determine whether or not to turn the compressor on. You need to determine if there is refrigerant in the system.

Step 1: Turn the engine off. Step 2: Install the gauges. Install the gauge set by locating the high and low side quick connections. Step 3: Observe the pressure readings on the gauges. Warning: Do not check for pressure by pressing on the fitting to see if refrigerant comes out. This is dangerous and it is illegal to vent refrigerant into the atmosphere. If the reading is zero you have a major leak. If there is pressure but the reading is below 50 psi then the system is low and may just need to be recharged. If the reading is above 50 psi and the compressor is not engaging then there is either a problem with the compressor or you have an electrical system failure that needs to be diagnosed. Step 1: Turn the engine off and install the gauge set. Step 2: Restart the engine and turn on the air conditioning. Step 3: Observe the pressure readings. Though every air conditioning system will vary, you want to see the high side pressure around 20 psi and the low side around 40 psi.

If both the high and the low side are below these readings then you may need to add refrigerant. If the readings are very high then you may have a problem with air trapped in the system or an airflow problem with the condenser. If the pressures do not change at all when the compressor engages then the compressor has failed or there is a problem with the metering device. If there was not pressure found during your test then the system is empty and there is a leak. The most effective way to locate a leak is with refrigerant dye. Dye kits are sold at most auto parts stores. Using the manufacturer's instructions, inject the dye into the air conditioning system. This is usually done through the low pressure service port. Allow the dye to works its way through the system. Using the supplied UV light and glasses you will inspect all of the components and hoses of the air conditioning system and look for any glowing material. Most dyes are either orange or yellow.

Once you find the leak repair it as needed. If the system was empty then it will need to be fully evacuated and recharged. When adding refrigerant to the system you want to take it slow as you do not know how much it actually needs. When a shop performs this duty, they use a machine that pulls the refrigerant from the system, weighs it, and then allows the technician to add the exact amount of refrigerant back into the system. Most store-bought refrigerant kits come with their own charging hose and gauge that allow you to add refrigerant yourself. Step 1: Turn off the engine. Step 2: Disconnect low side gauge. Disconnect the gauge set from the low side port. Step 3: Install charge kit. Install the charging kit to the low side connection on the AC system. Step 4: Turn on engine. Turn on the engine and the air conditioning.Observe the gauge on the kit and begin adding the refrigerant whether it be with a button or a trigger on the kit. Step 6: Reach desired pressure.