gas heat/ac unit

80,000 BTU 80% Multi-Positional Gas Furnace 80,000 BTU 95.5% Multi-Positional Gas Furnace 95% AFUE 120,000 BTU 2-Stage Upflow/Horizontal Residential Natural Gas Furnace 125,000 BTU Lowboy Front Flue Oil Furnace 95% AFUE 108,000 BTU Upflow/Horizontal Residential Gas Furnace 100,000 BTU 80% Multi-Positional Gas Furnace 80 Percent 108,000 Input BTU 86,400 Output BTU Natural Gas Forced Hot Air Furnace 93% AFUE 120,000 BTU Multi-Position 2-Stage Multi-Speed Gas Furnace with LP Kit 93% AFUE 60,000 BTU Multi-Position Two-Stage Multi-Speed Gas Furnace with LP Kit 60,000 BTU 80% Multi-Positional Gas Furnace 72,000 BTU Single Stage Upflow Natural Gas Furnace 80% AFUE 100,000 BTU Multi-Position Multi-Speed Gas Furnace with LP Kit 120,000 BTU 96% 2-Stage Variable Speed Multi-Positional Gas Furnace 80% AFUE 90,000 BTU Upflow/Horizontal Residential Natural Gas Furnace 93% AFUE 80,000 BTU Multi-Position 2-Stage Multi-Speed Gas Furnace with LP Kit

93% AFUE 80,000 BTU Multi-Position Two-Stage Multi-Speed Gas Furnace with LP Kit 125,000 BTU Lowboy Downflow/Horizontal Front Flue Oil Furnace 80% AFUE 126,000 BTU Upflow/Horizontal Residential Natural Gas Furnace Patriot 80 119,000 Input BTU Oil Highboy Hot Air Furnace 60,000 BTU Two Stage Upflow Natural Gas Furnace Patriot 80 90,000 Input BTU Oil Highboy Hot Air Furnace 95 Percent 120,000 Input BTU 114,000 Output BTU Natural Gas Forced Hot Air Furnace
air conditioning units through wall 67,372 BTU Mobile Home Electric Furnace
home air conditioner repair troubleshooting 80,000 BTU 96% 2-Stage Variable Speed Multi-Positional Gas Furnace
heat pump with air conditioner unit

Check out these great offers! There are many different types of systems you can use to heat and cool your home – the trick is finding one that will be the most cost-efficient in both the summer and winter.That’s why a gas furnace with air conditioning combo is an excellent choice for both cooling and heating your home. Also known as gas electric systems, these HVAC units use natural or propane gas to heat your home in the winter while relying on electricity to cool it during the summer.How does a gas furnace with air conditioning component work?It starts with the thermostat. Most modern homes have thermostats that control both the heating and cooling of the house. If a thermostat is set at a certain temperature – 72 degrees, for example – the HVAC unit will kick in as necessary to maintain that set temperature. If the temp rises above 72 degrees, the electricity-powered AC portion of the unit will activate until the optimal temperature is reached. If the temp in a room dips below 72 degrees, the gas-powered furnace will activate and stay on until the temperature rises back to 72 degrees.

When the gas furnace is activated…When the air conditioner is activated…What are the benefits of a combination gas furnace with air conditioning?72 Degrees carries and services all major brands of gas furnaces with air conditioners. If you have any questions, or would like to speak with one of our experienced technicians, please contact us. Odor problems can be as serious as a gas leak or as simple as a dirty air filter. But keep in mind, a good mechanic doesn't just use his hands. He uses his ears and nose - all his senses. Unusual odors can indicate a serious problem and should not, I repeat, should not be ignored! Odor complaints are very common in the heating and air conditioning field. One unusual complaint, is the smell of dirty socks, and this only applies to heat pump systems. It's known as "Dirty Sock Syndrome". For more information on this topic, click the button below.... Otherwise, there are many different types of odors and different causes, but for the most part they can be broken down into the five different categories listed below.

Damp and musty odor Electrical odors are usually caused by parts overheating. Indoor blower motors are a common example. If there is a mechanical failure; such as the bearings seizing up, then the motor over-heats and the insulation on the wires and the motor windings themselves start to melt, causing the odor. Sometimes, loose electrical connections can cause wires or relays to overheat, causing electrical odors. It's also possible for a very dirty air filter to cause the odor. If the airflow is restricted enough, it could cause electric resistance heaters to overheat, even burn-out. If you smell an electrical odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut the equipment off at the breaker if possible, and call for service. This is similar to an electrical odor only worse. It is also sometimes accompanied by smoke. Once again, this can be caused by parts or wiring burning-up. It can also be debri such as plastic getting into the ductwork and melting on the electric resistance heaters or heat exchanger.

If you smell a burning odor, check your air filter. First of all, if you really smell gas and suspect a gas leak, you should open the windows and get out of the house immediately. Then call the gas company. Now excluding that "worse-case" scenario, if you notice an odor that smells like gas and it seems to be coming out of the supply vents, it usually isn't gas. Sometimes dust that settles on the heat exchanger during the summer months burns off at the beginning of each heating season, and it smell just like gas. If the odor doesn't seem to be coming from the vents, try to pinpoint where the smell is coming from. If it is gas, it usually would be from a leak in a pipe fitting or at the equipment itself. Gas odor is the one that causes the most fear. People think of gas explosions or carbon-monoxide poisoning. Well, gas explosions are very rare and carbon-monoxide for the most part is odorless. Having said that though, don't take a gas odor lightly. If you can't locate the source of the odor and you are worried you have a gas leak, remember, open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company.

Oil odors are usually caused by one of two things. An oil leak/drip or an oil burner that is not working properly. The oil leak is usually easy to spot. Just look for oil. Check the burner itself, the oil tank, filter and oil line. Sometimes it is just a matter of tightening a fitting. If there are no signs of an oil leak then it is most likely a burner problem. This can be caused by many things, too many to list actually. It could be a minor adjustment to the burner, to a faulty or blocked chimney. From a bad fuel pump, to a plugged oil nozzle. Listen for any unusual rumbling or banging sounds, and look for any smoke or soot while the burner is running. If you notice any of these things and/or you have an oil odor, you should call for service immediately. One other common problem today is that new houses are insulated so well and are built so tight that they run out of combustion air, causing odor problems. In this case it is just a matter of bringing in a fresh air for the burner.

Call Hannabery HVAC or your local Heating Company to assist in a proper diagnosis. This is more common in the air conditioning mode during the summer months, but this odor problem is almost never due to a problem with your equipment. It's usually related to water getting into the house from another source. Sometimes attic units or very damp basements have this problem. Check for air leaks in the return ducts. Check for water damage to the ducts or air handler itself. Possibly consider having your ducts cleaned. Run a dehumidifier and see if the odor goes away. Keep in mind that almost all heating systems cause an odor the first time they are fired-up, and the first few times at the beginning of each heating season. Brand new furnaces are coated with oil to keep the heat exchangers from rusting; this burns off, creating a bad odor - even smoke. But it usually only lasts for about 20 minutes. Opening the windows usually solves the problem. And the first few times the backup heat on a heat pump kicks on - each heating season, it can give off a dusty, electrical odor.