The earth absorbs almost 50% of all solar energy and remains a nearly constant temperature of 50 to 70 degree Fahrenheit depending on geographic location. Working with an underground loop system, a ClimateMaster geothermal unit utilizes this constant temperature to exchange energy between your home and the earth as needed for heating and cooling. In winter, water circulating inside a sealed loop absorbs heat from the earth and carries it to the unit. Here it is compressed to a higher temperature and sent as warm air to your indoor system for distribution throughout your home. In the summer, the system reverses and expels heat from your home to the cooler earth via the loop system. This heat exchange process is not only natural, but is a truly ingenious and highly efficient way to create a comfortable climate in your home. "Split System" Air ConditionersThe latest standard for SEER is 13 (beginning January 2015). "Split System" Heat Pumps A split system heat pump keeps homes comfortable all year long.

In summer, it draws heat out of your home to cool it. In the winter, it draws heat from outside air into your home to warm it. Many heat pumps have a booster electrical-resistance heater that automatically heats outside air even more. Outside air always has heat in it -- even at very low outdoor temperatures. Like a central air conditioner, a heat pump includes a compressor, fan, outdoor coil, indoor coil, and a refrigerant. The efficiency of heat pumps is rated using SEER (for cooling efficiency) and HSPF (for heating efficiency). A heat pump uses electricity as its power source. The basic components of a heat pump are: Most home comfort systems have two parts: an outdoor air conditioner or heat pump, and an indoor unit, a furnace. Furnaces heat and circulate warm air in the winter. They also take cool air from the outdoor unit and circulate it through your home in summer. The indoor and outdoor units are designed to work together. When the furnace is properly matched with a heat pump or air conditioner, you enjoy maximum efficiency and extended system life.

Furnace heating ability is measured with an Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) percentage. A higher AFUE percentage indicates a more efficient furnace. A gas furnace uses natural gas, although some models can be converted to utilize propane. An oil furnace uses heating oil. An electricity source is required to run the control systems, blower and some accessories. The basic components of a furnace system are: Oil-fired burners are used in many parts of the country as the basic heat source for warm air and hot water heating systems. Most of the home oil systems in use today are called pressure burners. In this type of system, oil is sprayed into a combustion chamber at high pressure, propelled by a blower, and ignited by an electric spark. The oil continues to burn as the mist is sprayed. Oil furnace efficiency is measured by the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, (AFUE) rating. The AFUE equals the percent efficiency the unit delivers. The higher the percentage the more efficient the unit.

A Residential Single Package System is a year round comfort system in which all equipment is self-contained in one unit and installed outdoors, typically on a concrete slab or other platform.circuit board for ac unit In the summer, a single package system provides the comfort of central air conditioning. lg ac unit portableDuring the colder months, the unit provides heat. how much does it cost to install central ac unitEssentially, it is an air conditioner and heating unit in a single package, hence the name. The efficiency of single packages are rated using SEER (for cooling efficiency), AFUE% (for gas heating efficiency) and HSPF (for heat pump efficiency). Ductwork is required to transfer the heated or cooled air throughout the home.

AFUE – ANNUAL FUEL UTILIZATION EFFICIENCY When you need to measure the thermal efficiency of your furnace or water heater, AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) helps to determine the actual, annual, average efficiency of that piece of heating equipment. It measures the amount of heat actually delivered to your house compared to the amount of fuel that you must supply to the furnace. The  determined that all furnaces sold in the U.S. must have a minimum AFUE of 78%. SEER – SEASONAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY RATIO Are you getting your money’s worth out of your air conditioner? Determining the SEER of your unit will help. SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, the comparative method used to judge how efficiently your air conditioner performs. It’s one way to see if you’re getting real value out of the energy dollars you spend. The higher a unit’s SEER, the higher your unit’s energy efficiency, and the more efficiently your unit uses power. In January 2006 it became mandatory for all cooling units to have a minimum 13 SEER.

Effective power use means you’re getting the best value for your energy dollar. HSPF – HEATING SEASONAL PERFORMANCE FACTOR The HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) is the most commonly used measure of the heating efficiency of heat pumps. The HSPF is a heat pump’s estimated seasonal heating output in BTUs divided by the amount of energy that it consumes in watt-hours. Typically, a high efficiency air conditioner or heat pump pays for itself in savings in a few years. Odor problems can be as serious as a gas leak or as simple as a dirty air filter. But keep in mind, a good mechanic doesn't just use his hands. He uses his ears and nose - all his senses. Unusual odors can indicate a serious problem and should not, I repeat, should not be ignored! Odor complaints are very common in the heating and air conditioning field. One unusual complaint, is the smell of dirty socks, and this only applies to heat pump systems. It's known as "Dirty Sock Syndrome". For more information on this topic, click the button below....

Otherwise, there are many different types of odors and different causes, but for the most part they can be broken down into the five different categories listed below. Damp and musty odor Electrical odors are usually caused by parts overheating. Indoor blower motors are a common example. If there is a mechanical failure; such as the bearings seizing up, then the motor over-heats and the insulation on the wires and the motor windings themselves start to melt, causing the odor. Sometimes, loose electrical connections can cause wires or relays to overheat, causing electrical odors. It's also possible for a very dirty air filter to cause the odor. If the airflow is restricted enough, it could cause electric resistance heaters to overheat, even burn-out. If you smell an electrical odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut the equipment off at the breaker if possible, and call for service. This is similar to an electrical odor only worse. It is also sometimes accompanied by smoke.

Once again, this can be caused by parts or wiring burning-up. It can also be debri such as plastic getting into the ductwork and melting on the electric resistance heaters or heat exchanger. If you smell a burning odor, check your air filter. First of all, if you really smell gas and suspect a gas leak, you should open the windows and get out of the house immediately. Then call the gas company. Now excluding that "worse-case" scenario, if you notice an odor that smells like gas and it seems to be coming out of the supply vents, it usually isn't gas. Sometimes dust that settles on the heat exchanger during the summer months burns off at the beginning of each heating season, and it smell just like gas. If the odor doesn't seem to be coming from the vents, try to pinpoint where the smell is coming from. If it is gas, it usually would be from a leak in a pipe fitting or at the equipment itself. Gas odor is the one that causes the most fear. People think of gas explosions or carbon-monoxide poisoning.

Well, gas explosions are very rare and carbon-monoxide for the most part is odorless. Having said that though, don't take a gas odor lightly. If you can't locate the source of the odor and you are worried you have a gas leak, remember, open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. Oil odors are usually caused by one of two things. An oil leak/drip or an oil burner that is not working properly. The oil leak is usually easy to spot. Just look for oil. Check the burner itself, the oil tank, filter and oil line. Sometimes it is just a matter of tightening a fitting. If there are no signs of an oil leak then it is most likely a burner problem. This can be caused by many things, too many to list actually. It could be a minor adjustment to the burner, to a faulty or blocked chimney. From a bad fuel pump, to a plugged oil nozzle. Listen for any unusual rumbling or banging sounds, and look for any smoke or soot while the burner is running. If you notice any of these things and/or you have an oil odor, you should call for service immediately.

One other common problem today is that new houses are insulated so well and are built so tight that they run out of combustion air, causing odor problems. In this case it is just a matter of bringing in a fresh air for the burner. Call Hannabery HVAC or your local Heating Company to assist in a proper diagnosis. This is more common in the air conditioning mode during the summer months, but this odor problem is almost never due to a problem with your equipment. It's usually related to water getting into the house from another source. Sometimes attic units or very damp basements have this problem. Check for air leaks in the return ducts. Check for water damage to the ducts or air handler itself. Possibly consider having your ducts cleaned. Run a dehumidifier and see if the odor goes away. Keep in mind that almost all heating systems cause an odor the first time they are fired-up, and the first few times at the beginning of each heating season. Brand new furnaces are coated with oil to keep the heat exchangers from rusting;