Tilt your window unit slightly lower outside to aid draining. Not only does air conditioning lower the temperature inside your home no matter how hot the day, but it also removes humidity from the air. As the cold refrigerant inside your window air conditioner circulates through the evaporator (an indoor cooling coil) the warm air inside your home creates condensation -- like steam on a bathroom window during a shower. Newer units are designed to hold much of this water in the pan, where the fan slings it across the condenser (the outdoor coil) to lower the unit's temperature and increase its efficiency. Some units drain continuously, however. To help either drain better, take whichever measures you find necessary. Unplug the window air conditioner, and ensure it is stable. Have an assistant help you during your work; she can steady the air conditioner and help remove it from the window if it becomes necessary. Check the window unit to determine if it's level or slanted toward the ground outside.

To aid proper drainage, the rear of the unit should drop about an inch lower than the front. how to calculate size of ac unit"Eyeball" the air conditioner, working from outside; sizing ac unit for roomif it's slanted enough, it should appear obvious. maintenance on an ac unitIf it's difficult to tell, lay a carpenter's level across the top. Drop the rear of the unit lower than the front to increase the unit's angle and encourage good drainage. Even newer units that don't drain continuously generally have an overflow drain in case the water level gets too high. To lower the unit's rear, consider the installation method. If the unit sits unsupported in the window, it's generally a matter of pulling it slightly forward to allow the rear to drop.

Braces of various kinds may need to be cut and reattached or otherwise lowered to allow the rear to drop. Find the drain hole or plug designed to expel excess water. On constantly draining units (usually older or very large units) the hole is generally underneath the exterior portion of the unit and may be very small. Window air conditioners designed to retain water may have a hole on the side instead, so when the water reaches a given level it drains away. Alternatively, you may find a cap underneath the unit that allows you to pour off water before recapping. Unplug the drain hole if you see or suspect it's clogged at or near the entrance. Poke a long, thin wire or even a baby bottle nipple cleaner through the hole, and work it back and forth like you're brushing your teeth. Often this is enough to encourage the water to drain. Pull the unit from the window, remove the outer casing if necessary and set the unit on a clean surface. Lay a thick cloth over the switches and fan motor, and tilt the air conditioner slightly to encourage water to flow away from these electrical parts.

Spray the unit, using a low-pressure stream, directing the flow from the inside of the coils out to remove excess dirt and debris. Remove the base pan, into which the condensation drains, to clean the pan or the internal drain system. Unscrew or pull to unclip the base pan (sometimes called a drip tray) from the bottom of the unit. Scrub with a rag and water from the hose. Alternatively, replace the tray with a new one; if it's rusted or extremely damaged, it may be preventing proper drainage. Look for small tubes -- typically two -- running from the front pan, under the evaporator, to the rear where it releases condensation into the base pan. Run a small brush or wire through these hoses with a swabbing, scrubbing motion to work free any clogs. Enlarge or add another weep hole in the base pan only if one already exists or the product literature indicates it is appropriate. With the pan removed, use a drill and small bit to bore a hole toward the outermost edge of the pan or enlarge an existing hole.

Reassemble the air conditioner, attaching the base pan first and following with the casing as appropriate. Reinstall in the window, allowing the proper tilt, and secure. Avoid running the air for a day or two to ensure everything is dry. Window air-conditioner units are a reliable and simple-to-install solution to keep a room cool while avoiding the costly construction of a central air system. Better yet, when the summer heat dies down, these units can be easily removed for storage, and you can use the windowsill for other purposes. , walks us through the basic steps of a/c installation.Window a/c units come in various sizes and cooling capacities, and it is important to choose the one that best fits the needs of the room. "There is a formula to all of this," Vandervort says. The first part of the formula is room size. An air-conditioning calculator makes this job easy—you put in a room's dimensions and it tells you how much BTU power you need. If the room is open to an additional area, like through an arch or open doorway, make sure you include the other area in your square-foot count.

Aside from square footage, there are other factors to consider. Think about the climate of the room. "You can decrease the BTU rating by 10 percent if it is on a shaded side, or increase it by 10 percent if it is on a sunny side," Vandervort says. In addition, if the a/c unit is for a kitchen, Vandervort suggests adding 4000 BTUs to your capacity figures; if the room is to be occupied by more than two people, add 600 BTUs per person. All air conditioners are packaged with room coverage factors on the label, but it is always good to double check these numbers, and consider adding or subtracting power based on the room you wish to cool. Plus, keep in mind window size. Most units are meant to fit in double-hung windows, but there are models designed for casement windows as well.When choosing a window to place the air conditioner in, keep fire safety in mind. An air conditioner can block egress in the event of a fire, especially if the unit is in a room with only one window.Air conditioners are rated for energy efficiency.

The EER (energy efficiency rating) ranges from 8 to 11.5, and Vandervort says a rating of 10 or higher is ideal for saving electricity (and lowering your bills). However, expect to pay more for a more efficient unit. These greener units offer digital temperature controls, variable fan speeds and sleep settings, which help conserve power.Before you take the unit out of the box, make sure you have a friend handy to help with the installation. Air-conditioner units are clumsy objects, and you don't want your brand-new appliance falling out during installation and landing on the ground below.If you have double-hung widows, installation should be simple. It may be necessary to assemble the unit's window extensions; some models have these already installed. Other models utilize special brackets for window attachment, Vandervort says. In that case, you put those brackets in place first. Always check with the owner manual. While the installation of different units should be similar, there are variations between a/c designs.

Raise the lower pane, and have your helper place the unit on the windowsill. Slide out the unit's extensions to fill the empty window space. Next, level the unit according to the manufacturer's instructions. Most air-conditioner models should tip slightly to the outside to drain condensation. However, keep in mind that some units may not be designed to tilt.Fasten the unit to the brackets or lower the window pane onto the unit to lock it into place. Most models will have you secure the upper windowpane into place to prevent movement. Next, secure the extensions to the window jamb. Finally, seal the unit. On the inside, use weatherstripping provided by the manufacturer; on the outside, use calk around the perimeter to ensure a good seal.With other styles of windows, or with odd-shaped windows, you may have to get creative, Vandervort says. Use plywood boards to help seal or fit an unusual opening that the a/c's extenders will not fill.Air conditioners can use a lot of power, so keep in mind the circuit you are connecting the unit to.