Buy online and return core parts to the store to be refunded the price. On Orders $75 or Greater and free shipping to APO, FPO, DPO addresses. Save time by buying online and picking up items in store.When you turn on the air conditioner in your car, do you often have a distinct car air conditioner smell that is weird or repugnant? If this is the case, then there is definitely wrong with your car air conditioner. There are some ways to detect and find certain smells that are coming from your air conditioner. Most of the time, these smells are a result of some damage in your car air conditioner. There are also several reasons why your car air conditioner emits a certain smell. Probably one of the reasons why there is a distinct smell in your air conditioner when you turn it on is the growth of mold in your air vents. Smells of mildew in your car may be caused by the growth of bacteria. As the car becomes older, bacteria, mold, fungi, and micro-organisms can start to grow.

The growth of these bacteria is often behind the dash panel on the evaporator. This causes an unpleasant odor coming out the air conditioner unit. Also, if the air conditioner is not used as often then this can also cause the growth of bacteria. Turning on your air conditioner to maximum often may also cause bacteria growth due to the excess water that is dripping in your unit. To fix this problem, locate the drain tube in your A/C unit. Make sure that is working properly. Use an anti-bacterial treatment that will destroy bacteria that is growing behind your dash panel. Inject the treatment solution into the air conditioner case. It is advisable to turn off the car air conditioner for awhile and let the fan run instead for a few minutes. This will help evaporate the water on the coils of your unit. If you smell gas every time you turn on your car air conditioner, then your car may have a gas leak. When you turn on your A/C unit, the gas smell is being sucked into the fresh air that the air conditioner is taking.

To solve this problem, you need to repair the leak. There are several areas where you can check for a gas leak. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator of your engine to see if the leak is in this area. You can also check the fuel injector "O" rings in the engine compartment for any leaks. It is also advisable to check your exhaust pipes and muffler for any holes that can cause gas leaks. Your air filters may also be causing a weird car air conditioner smell. If not cleaned properly, the air filter can collect dirt, stagnant water, dust mites, and other harmful pollutants. This can result in a bad smell every time you turn on your air conditioner. You can easily fix this problem by just replacing the old filter with a new one and regularly cleaning the air filter of your air conditioner unit. If the cooling system in your car smells sweet, then you should have your unit checked immediately. The sweet smell is often the cause of toxic liquid ethylene glycol or antifreeze. This smell is the result of a leak in the cooling system.

The leak can come from the heater core, pipe or hose, coolant housing unit, or the radiator.You can do an anti bacterial treatment for your A/C by yourself. There are special antibacterial cleaners that you have to spray on the air filter once a month. You can also try cleaning your air conditioner at least once in a month to ensure that it produces clean and filtered air. wine room ac unitTry products like Klima-Cleaner's. how much is a 1 ton ac unitThis product removes odors from the car and removes water condensation on the air conditioner system too. wall mounted ac units installationThis can cost about $15 per bottle and can last you a long time. Other products you can try include GardX One Shot Deodoriser, and Kleen Air-Air Conditioning Cleaner & Purifier.

Both of which cost about $45-$100.A fuel injector o-ring is usually sold at car spare part stores. The dealer may try to sell you the entire fuel injection system, as a few cars will come only in sets. Take a look at the Owners Manual to find out the size of the o-ring that you require. You can then ask the dealer to show you an assortment of rings and then choose the right one from them. The average cost of an o-ring will be about $15 for a set of four. For example, the Felpro Fuel Injector O-Ring comes for $13-$15. You can do the replacement yourself or you can get a service shop to do the job for you. Service shops will charge differing amounts depending on the job that was done.Most car manufacturers will recommend that you install a new car filter every 5,000 to 10,000 miles. But you can use reusable filters too that are present on the market. For example, K&N has several great quality reusable filters that are washable and reusable. These cost anywhere from $40-$200. But these high quality filters are made of surgical cotton gauze.

You will also find ordinary air filters made of paper, which are supposed to be disposed after use. These are cheap and cost about $20-$45. Check with the owners manual to find the right air filter model that you require.A wave of shimmering, sauna-hot air hits your face and takes your breath away as you open the door and settle into the car. Too bad there wasn't a tree anywhere near this steamy, black asphalt parking lot. Who would think a car's interior could get this hot?You immediately thumb the a/c controls and wait patiently for relief. A brief moment of warm air from those vents turns the sweat beading on your forehead into crunchy little salt tattoos. Within seconds, the air begins to cool off, and so do you. Not a moment too soon.But before you clear the parking spot, before the air inside the car even approaches acceptable temperatures--there's a funny smell. It's sweet and acrid. The smell builds for a minute or two and then the fan slows and the cool breeze dwindles. There's a brief sizzle from under the dash, followed by an even more acrid smell.

Paradise by the dashboard vents is over. Your fan motor has died.Okay, not every fan motor dies in such a spectacular blaze of glory. The lives of these devices are unpredictable. Sometimes the motors just keep zipping along and lose steam gradually--until they just don't turn anymore. Or the fan may croak on the spot without warning. That's usually an indication of seized bearings. These motors generally don't use ball or needle bearings, they just glide on a simple bushing of oil-impregnated bronze. Dirt and corrosion can create so much friction inside that they'll gradually grind to a halt. So, our first step is to find out what, exactly, went wrong.Start by checking the fuse. The condition of the fuse really won't tell you what the problem is--but stay tuned.If it's blown, don't replace it now, because there's a good chance the new one may blow immediately too.Find the fan underneath the dashboard and spin it manually. This process might involve temporarily removing a duct if you have a cabin air filter.

If the fan spins readily, the problem is usually electrical. If it feels sticky, or has rough spots as you turn it, just go out and buy a new one right now. Get out the meter, or at least a test light. It's time to chase voltages.Basics FirstTwist the ignition key to accessory (ACC) mode and turn the fan switch to high. Back-probe the hot line into the fan, and you should see 12 volts in the system. While you're poking around, be sure both the hot and ground wires are still attached. It's not impossible for these wires to be knocked loose by the errant toe of a boot or a suicidal Barbie doll lurking on the floor.Check the schematic--a few vehicles switch from the ground side of the fan motor, not the high side. If so, there should be 12 volts to the motor full-time, regardless of the switch position, and you'll need to check voltage on the ground side. If you have no juice to the motor, it's time to find out why.Fusable LinkSometimes the problem is not the motor itself. A fan constantly turning full-chat is noisy, and unnecessary a lot of the time.

So most fan blower switches use a voltage-dropping resistor assembly to slow down that motor to a quieter speed. When this resistor dies, the fan will no longer work at certain speeds. The resistor was blown on our test car--we knew that for certain because the voltage was only meterable at the motor's hot terminal with the switch set to high. We replaced the resistor block before doing any further diagnosis. These resistors generate a lot of heat, so they're typically mounted inside the plenum, right in the path of airflow from the fan. When the fan is compromised, the resistor overheats. Consequently, it's not uncommon to see fried resistors accompanying fried blower motors. The resistor is usually inexpensive ($10 to $15) and easy to swap out. If the fan motor on my car was dead, I'd probably go ahead and change the resistor while I had my head under the dash.With the switch on a lower setting and the motor disconnected, you'll still see a full 12 volts of system voltage at even the lowest setting.

The voltage won't drop down to a lower level until the fan motor starts to draw current.Our spent motor was completely open electrically, and wouldn't load down the circuit at all, even after we replaced the resistor. If your motor has bad bushings and still turns, albeit slowly, it probably draws enough current to cook itself from the extra drag. This extra current, you would think, would blow the fuse too. Unfortunately, there is often enough headroom in a fuse's rating to let the motor melt before the fuse pops, if it blows at all. If your fan motor is killing fuses, uprating the fuse to a higher amperage is not, I repeat, not, an acceptable solution. There's the chance of damaging not only the motor and resistor with the excess current, but also the wiring in the harness and the blower-speed switch itself. Parts ChasingWe ordered a replacement blower from a website, and of course the wrong part showed up. So we ordered another one, from a different vendor. Big surprise, Part II: It was the wrong motor, yet again.

That precipitated a trip to the local auto-parts store. And as we've come to expect, the counterman was able to crack the code for our particular vehicle and come up with the right part overnight. Said part was inside an identical box, with an identical part number printed on it. If you have a very old or odd car, you may have less luck finding a source. A dealership should be able to get anything for most late-model cars; expect to pay through the nose. If you have an older vehicle, you may need to look to the restoration market. My first source is usually J.C. Whitney, or the back pages of Hemmings Motor News. Last resort: junkyard parts.If you must use an older, boneyard fan, clean and lubricate the bearings. The bearing on the fan end of the armature is accessible: Spin the armature shaft and hose it down with brake cleaner. Follow up with oil--a few drops of LPS 3 (my personal favorite) or even motor oil. The other end of the armature is usually inaccessible. You can try to disassemble the motor, but I've used this trick successfully: Drill a 1/16-inch hole in the stamped-steel end cap.

Put grease on the drill bit to catch any shavings. Inject a sparing amount of LPS 3 or oil into the hole. Then clean up the area with brake cleaner and seal the hole with silicone gasket sealer. Can't find even an old motor? Take the fried one to an electric motor shop. For a surprisingly small amount of money, most motors can be rebuilt. This procedure starts with disassembly and inspection of all the windings for internal shorts, opens or shorts to ground. If the windings look or test bad, they can be rewound with fresh, varnished copper wire. The shop will also true up the commutator on a lathe and undercut the copper contacts. Following that, it'll clean up and lube or replace the bushings, replace the brushes (which are usually a standard size) and button the whole thing up. Not every motor is rebuildable, but in desperate times I've pried open some crimped-shut motors that weren't designed to be repaired.A Breath of Fresh AirOkay, you've sourced a new, used or rebuilt fan motor. If it's not a new one, I'd recommend a test run on your workbench before going through the trouble of installing it.

You can either run jumpers from the car battery or just use a battery charger or other 12-volt source. You'll need 10 amps or so to run the motor at full speed. When the jumpers make the connection, the fan will spin merrily. And since every action has an equal and opposite reaction, the motor housing will spin counter to the fan's rotation. Don't let it spin right off the counter onto the floor. Don't ask me how I know this.Installation is the reverse of removal. Reinstall any cooling ducts, and keep the wiring harness away from the fan blades. If your old motor came with any sound insulation, replace that too. Don't use duct tape to hold the insulation back on--the extreme underdash temperatures will dry it out within months. If you must, glue the insulation back with RTV (room-temperature-vulcanizing) silicone gasket sealer.RELATED STORIES* PLUS: Seven Summertime Auto Myths Debunked* JAY LENO'S GARAGE: 3D Printer Replaces Rusty Old Parts* DIY AUTO: How to Fix Squeaky Brakes* FOLLOW US: Popular Mechanics is Now on Twitter!* FRIEND US: Find PM on FacebookFinding the Problem

1.If both hot and ground wires are still attached to the motor's frame, back-probe the hot wire to the motor armature with the key on and the fan-speed switch set to high. You should see full battery voltage. 2. Standing on your head with your face in the footwell isn't much fun, but you'll need to remove the motor's attachment hardware. 3. We managed to sneak this dead motor out of the plenum without removing half the dashboard. Unfortunately, they're not all this easy. Some fan motors are removed from inside the engine compartment, which, counter­intuitively, isn't necessarily easier. 4. The new motor had to be snaked up into place past some serious roadblocks in the footwell and under the dash. Be sure not to damage the plastic fan. Some replacement motors don't come with fans--you'll need to recycle your old fan-blade assembly. 5. Good luck getting a wrench on all the fasteners without adding an extra joint in your wrist. 6. Note this deceased fan's shorted copper windings, blackened insulation and worn-out brushes and commutator.