This is a sign that something is either dripping, leaking, or not draining. But don't panic, sometimes it can be a very minor problem. In the cooling mode, the indoor evaporator coil and the suction line (the large copper refrigerant line in black insulation) sweats. That is part of the purpose of the black insulation (armaflex), to keep the condensation from dripping. Sometimes if the insulation is missing or if it has open seems, it can cause dripping and obviously this is an easy fix. All armaflex joints should be butted-up tight and well taped. The evaporator produces a lot of condensation (water) during the summer, which runs down the coil into a pan, then out to the drain. The drain goes either into the ground, outside the house, or into a condensate pump. Then in turn, the pump takes the water either outside the house or into a plumbing drain. If the coil is dirty, then the water, instead of running down the coil, will hit the dirt, then drip onto the floor. This is one reason why the coil should be cleaned annually, not to mention for efficiency reasons.

Now if the coil is dirty, the water will mix with the dirt and the dirt will end up in the pan, and it will end up in the drain, the drain trap, and anywhere else it can cause a problem. The bottom of the trap is the most common source of a clog and it can be cleaned out with a long flexible cleaning brush and flushing water down the cleanout cap. Keep in mind, it doesn't take much dirt to clog a drain. And if your unit is in an attic or a finished basement, this can cause terrible damage. This is another reason why it is important to always have a good, clean, properly sized air filter, along with having annual inspections. Sometimes the indoor coil can actually ice-up. And when the ice eventually melts, it drips onto the floor. Like water, you should never see ice anywhere on your system during the cooling season. Indoor water problems aren't only during the summer. Many of today's high efficiency furnaces produce condensate as well. They also have to drain the water.

There are many parts in the furnace that can leak, drip, or crack, causing a water leak. And along with the furnace comes the central humidifier, which can also be a source for leaks. Furnaces and humidifiers need to be cleaned and serviced annually. So keep your eyes open... If you see water, try to trace where it is coming from. Sometimes it's a simple fix - sometimes not. Blocked condensate pan, trap, or drain Indoor coil frozen due to malfunction, causing melting ice to drip Dirty or faulty evaporator coil Cracked condensate pan, bad gasket Broken fittings or pipe, unglued joints Dry-rotted, cracked or kinked furnace tubing or condensate parts Humidifier over-filling or leaking Suction line missing armaflex (insulation) Drain line moved, not pitched downwardEdit ArticleHow to Clean Split Air Conditioners These days almost every household needs some form of air conditioning, often the split ductless air conditioner. This system is so compact, so energy efficient, and so low cost that most new homes are now pre-installed with it.

However, these devices are small, so cleaning them can be a daunting task. What's more, having them cleaning professionally can be ridiculously costly, costing as much annually as 25%~35% of the cost of a new system. Hence, here is a set of DIY instructions for anyone who wants to clean their air conditioning units and get back the strong cool airflow of a brand new air conditioner. can you run an ac unit without a filterBe sure to read the warnings at the bottom first to avoid electrocution, and in my opinion it is essential to remove the front cover and clean inside it to avoid mould reinfecting what you have cleaned!what is the average life of an ac unit Buy an aircon wash bag.is an air conditioning unit an appliance

Buy a good coil cleaner. Avoid the foam type coil cleaners because they can be messy and spread foam everywhere. Foam sprays also may not penetrate the coils or rotor fan blades properly. So stick to liquid solution sprays. Beware of buying harsh chemical cleaners that are designed to attack organics, as they may damage newer air conditioners. Newer split air conditioners often come with their cooling coils coated with a blue-colored hydrophilic layer (which keeps the condensation flowing over the coils easily to improve airflow strength). Install the aircon wash bag around the split a/c unit (called an FCU-Fan Coil Unit) on the wall. Start spraying the chemical solution over the coils. Spray the rotary blades hidden in the outlet of the airflow. Wait for 10 to 20 minutes for the cleaning solution to work. Wipe down the fan coil unit. Be gentle and try not to exert too much pressure when brushing the cooling fins. They do bend and collapse easily under too much force.

To avoid or clear a drainpipe clog, spray some coil cleaning solution into the drainpipe. Then flush water down the drainpipe. If you can reach the other end, use a wet shop vac to suck out and clear the drainpipe. This should be done especially if you have a leaking air conditioner. Use the long reach nozzle or a toothbrush to push the rotary blades round to get at all the blades. If you know how to remove the front casing of the air conditioner, you can clean the coils more thoroughly. If your sprayer is strong enough, the pressure alone will cause the blades to rotate, as long as you focus the spray on the lower third of the rotor facing you. Before you begin, you can remove the drain plug from the drip tray in your aircon unit to allow all the dirt to drain into the wash bag instead. This can avoid letting too much dirt flow into the drainpipe. A used toothbrush can be very useful in dislodging and scrubbing some of the stubborn spots on the coils and everywhere else, especially areas near the airflow outlet.