We offer a variety of Circuit Boards and Control Boards from leading manufacturers such as Carrier, Trane, Bryant and Rheem, all at competitive prices. Enjoy lightning fast shipping and the largest selection of HVAC Circuit Boards online. I have a York AC unit where the circuit board is shot, so I bought a replacement circuit board (same model). The model number for the board is 031-00251C. I'm considering replacing this myself, but have no experience. Yes, I'll make sure the power is off first. Is there anything I should know ahead of time or how I should get started? This question came from our site for electronics and electrical engineering professionals, students, and enthusiasts. First, be wary of the two big capacitors. One is the large "beer-can"-shaped component against the inside wall of the enclosure, and the other is the smaller, silver oval-shaped can right next to it. These can hold electrical charge, and could hurt you. You'll want make sure that they're discharged.

Once you unplug the unit, wait a few minutes for the caps to discharge on their own. Then, get a piece of insulated wire, or pliers with insulated handles, and short out the two terminals on the top of the cap. It may make a good spark, which is why you're doing it! Better to spark through the wire than through you :) There's a third cap on the pcb (big silver unit with a wire coming out either end), you should probably discharge this one, too. The white connector up top will be easy. Generally you just grab all the cables together and pull it out. There may be a latching mechanism holding things together that's not visible in the photo. At the bottom of PCB (going by picture orientation), look at the black and brown wires that are connected to the board. The are using "quick disconnects", which can get to be fairly tight. Grab the connector (not the wire), and rock it back and forth (the long way) as you pull on it. Needle-nosed pliers might help. Those wires have wire nuts on them too, but I would leave them alone.

Once you are finished, give each wire coming from the wire nuts a firm tug, to make sure they haven't loosened up.ac unit copper Oh, and I recommend marking the wires before you disconnect them. ac unit not cooling enoughYou can make small tags on the wires using masking tape.lg ac repair customer care Should be pretty straight-forward. It looks like all the wires have connectors on them, so nothing crazy like soldering will be required. Compare the old board and the new board to make sure that all of the connections have the same labels, and label all the wires accordingly. Just make sure the power to everything is turned off and go for it. Use masking tape to label the conditioner's connections to the board made w red/blue wirenuts before you take them apart.

A simple 1 to 4 -> left to right will keep you from swapping around by accident. It wouldn't hurt to mark one of the plugin connectors with a sharpy either.Browse other questions tagged electrical repair hvac or ask your own question. I have a Honeywell System. Back in November of 2014, I replaced the Circuit Board with one by Honeywell from Amazon (1014460). The blower motor was replaced over 2 years ago. Last month, I have replaced the Transformer. (No part # available at time of writing). I also replaced the cap on the board as well. (97F9002). My thermostat is about 5 years old. All caps for my a/c system are no older than 2 years old. When I switch from Heat to AC, my circuit board fuse immediately pops. I am unable to use either until the fuse is replaced. I haven't tried replacing the circuit board fuse and putting it on AC to see if the AC would kick on that way. However, I haven't been able to determine why the fuse keeps blowing. Nothing was replaced last year and it worked great during the summer.

Any suggestions to try for troubleshooting? (See below for another suggestion) Research: All the research I have found regarding my issue tends to be the other way around. People seem to have the issue with AC to Heat. However, I want to test to see if it is my thermostat as that has been suggested to others. How would I test if that is a possibility? Transformer 44504 jard 4031f Without knowing much about your system, I'd recommend starting by checking the contactor in the condensing unit (outdoor unit). Before you open up the condensing unit, make sure to turn the power off at the breaker, pull/turn off the serviceman switch, and verify power is off. Once you've opened the unit, you'll want to properly discharge the capacitor(s). You don't want them to accidentally discharge through you. Using an insulated screwdriver, or pair of pliers, push the contactor plate in. You'll want to make sure the plate moves freely, and is not sticking or getting hung up.

If you're really careful, and comfortable doing so, you can run the system with the condensing unit open. Then you'll be able to see if the contactor pulls in. Here's a good YouTube video that shows why the contactor not pulling in is a problem. Next, set your multimeter to test resistance. Carefully remove the leads from the coil terminals, then test the resistance of the coil by touching one probe on each of the coil contacts (where you removed the wires). Make sure the resistance matches the manufacturer's specifications. If the resistance is really low, the coil is likely shorted out. If the resistance is infinity, the coil is likely broken. In both cases, the contactor will need to be replaced. To try and determine where the problem is, you could disconnect the control wires feeding the outside unit. Then switch the unit to COOL, and lower the set point until the thermostat calls for COOL. If the fuse blows with the outdoor unit disconnected, then the problem is likely on the control board.