Written Written Written Window units only need to achieve between 9.4  and 10.7 depends on size. But an central AC unit must have a minimum energy efficiency ratio of 12. One reason behind window AC has lower rating is that, it is impossible to fit much advance hardware into that little box. While Central air conditioning can work  at a range of speed and condensers in most window units only have two on and off. Which can make a significant difference in energy use. Central air units are getting more smarter according to more efficient and beneficial . Programmable thermostats of central air conditioning can make up for forgetful central AC users by shutting the unit off when no one is at home.Written Written This is a very difficult question to answer, and if you bump across an hvac engineer or technician that "knows" the answer, you should be sure he is lying.The air conditioner's monthly (or yearly) total consumption depends on many "irrelevant to the air conditioner" factors like:The weather of every year (mean season temperatures) . 

The air conditioner will cost more on "hot years".The user's prefferences (how cool you want your home to be)The total hours of air conditioning times (depends on the resident's life - the cost will be different for a family that both husband and wife work in the morning with kids going to school from a family that the wife doesn't work and the air conditioner runs during morning hours)As a rough estimation, you could use the following formula:air conditioning yearly cost = "air conditioning months" x "air conditioner's total electrical power"  x "4 hours a day of air conditioner running at total power" x "$/kWh electrical cost"but as i mentioned above, this calculation is a very rough estimation and it depends on many factors.We’re only halfway through the summer and we’ve already received dozens and dozens of calls from people wanting to know how much it costs to replace the compressor in their central air conditioning unit. The straightforward answer is that it costs a lot more than you should spend repairing an old ac unit.

Unless your air conditioner is new enough that the cost of both the parts and the labor to install the new compressor is covered under warranty - it’s almost always a bad idea to spend the money replacing the compressor. To have a well-known, reputable heating and air company in Denver replace your compressor is typically going to cost between $2,200 - $2,800. A handful of the biggest companies in Denver can charge more than $2,800. Keep in mind… the size of the company and the level of service they are structured to provide affects the price for any type of air conditioning repair. Spending $2,200 - $2,800 for a new compressor into an ac unit is pretty close to just lighting money on fire in my opinion. That’s 1/2 the cost of replacing your entire air conditioning system (a new condenser and evaporative coil) and you still have an old air conditioner, it just has a new compressor in it. A good analogy would be putting a new transmission in a car that already has 200,000 miles on the engine.

You can be pretty sure something else is going to go wrong with it before long. Most of the top air conditioner manufacturers back their units with a 10-Year Parts Warranty and a 1-Year Labor Warranty. However, some manufacturers only provide a 5-Year Parts Warranty. If the compressor in your air conditioner goes bad within the first 12 months, it’s a no-brainer - just call the company that installed it and you shouldn’t have to pay anything to have the compressor replaced.ac heater units sale If your compressor goes bad sometime between the 2nd and 10th year after installation of your central air conditioner, the cost of the compressor itself can still be covered under warranty, but you will have to cover the cost of the labor to replace the compressor. home central air conditioning maintenanceYou can expect to pay a well-known, reputable Denver air conditioning contractor between $1,500 - $2,000 just for the labor.home central ac not cooling

If your air conditioner if not more than 7-8 years old - and all the other components are in good shape, it may not be the worst financial decision in the world to replace your compressor if you only have to pay for the labor. Obviously individual financial circumstances have to be taken into consideration, and sometimes you have to choose the lesser of two evils. If you’re air conditioner is 10 years old then you would absolutely want to replace the entire air conditioning system instead of installing a new compressor. Air conditioning manufacturers typically do not honor warranty claims on equipment that has not been properly maintained or neglected. This is why it’s so important to have annual maintain performed on both your furnace and your air conditioner. Shameless Plug Alert: American Standard provides a 12-Year Warranty on the compressors inside their air conditioning units. Full Disclosure: Altitude Comfort is an authorized American Standard dealer, and it’s our most popular brand by far.

People often are confused by the technical names for the components of their air conditioning system, and they’ll refer to their outside unit (the condenser) as their compressor. Just so we’re all on the same page... Condenser: This is the outside unit that everyone typically refers to as their air conditioner. Compressor: The compressor is a big component that sits inside your condenser (the outside unit). What does the compressor do? In simple terms, an ac compressor circulates the refrigerant in your air conditioning system.The Air Probe Sanitizer can be custom manufactured to suit your needs at no additional cost. Pictured here are some of our more commonly installed units, designed to be installed near the cold air side of your central air conditioner's cooling coil. The Original Air Probe Sanitizer™ is the first of its kind on the indoor air quality market. Underwriter's Labs have approved this system for use in HVAC systems. For the protection that you and your loved ones need, the Original Air Probe Sanitizer™ will take

care of the job at a moderate cost. Why cut big holes to mount a UVC unit externally? With the model E-200, there's no need to cut holes in sheet metal to clear the UV lamp sockets. The E-200 easily installs inside of or duct near the air conditioner coil (as shown in the installation video). The electrical fittings are on one end as shown. Includes clear Lexan viewport kit for safe visual indication of lamp operation. Easily flush-mounts on OUTSIDE of duct or other part of system. The two UVC lamps (probes) and sockets fit through two 3.25" diameter holes cut in duct near A/C coil, usually with the hole centers 13" apart . (Rectangular holes can be slightly smaller.) Can be simply fastened in place with four small sheet metal screws, supplied. Electrical fittings are on one end as shown. Includes built-in "light pipes" for safe visual indication of lamp operation. SAME AS E-200 ABOVE, EXCEPT ELECTRICAL FITTINGS ARE ON TOP INSTEAD OF ON THE END (as shown above).

Useful in some installations where the A-coil is near the top of the duct or air handler. A 4" x 15" slot can simply be cut in the ductwork to clear the electrical fittings and light pipes on the back of the T-200, should your installation require it. For limited space and very small airhandler installations, such as motel and hotel rooms and small apartment units. Note: Lamp orientation may be different The single-probe model FME-100L-EXT shown below is designed for the standalone heating and air conditioning units commonly installed in motels and hotels using a slab cooling coil (two areThe socket and 16" ultraviolet-C lamp mounts inside (illuminating  the cold air side of the coil), and the other portion mounts on the outside or under the unit. Only $479.Where necessary, single- and double-probe "Umbilical cord" models, in both 8" and 16" UV-C probe lengths. These have the sockets mounted separately on 18" long 3/8"The main part of the units containing the ballast(s), switch, fuse, and

power fitting mounts externally a short distance away. Very useful for extremely limited-space Allow 1" extra (18" or 9") for the electrical connector on end of E- and FME-(the T-200 has the fitting, fuse, and switch on TOP, rather than on the end. These items may be placed on the same surface as the lamps, upon request.) T-200 and E-200 (8" lamps): approx. 11". T-100L, T-200L, E-100L or E-200L (16" FME-100 and FME-200 models: The dimension from the socket mounting surfaces (the outside of your duct or air handler) to the ends of the standard 8" lamps is approx. 9 inches. FME-100L and FME-200L models: The dimension from the socket mounting surfaces (the outside of your duct or air handler) to the ends of the 16" lamps is approx. 16.75" inches. Can I use the Air Probe Sanitizer with my existing heating and air There is no HVAC system which cannot use the Original Air Probe Sanitizer. Nearly all systems can use the E-200 or FME-200 above, but it

can be manufactured to fit any size air conditioner (usually at no extra charge). The original Air Probe Sanitizer is made of extruded aluminum and all stainless steel connectors. How does the Air Probe Sanitizer work? Nearly all HVAC (central heating and air conditioning system) systems have the ideal conditions for the growth of mold, mildew, and other hazardous air pollutants. There are volatile organic compounds (VOC) in the air and also the very common problem of fine organic dust, germs, mold spores, pollen, animal dander, and other allergens. The air in your home, office, school or hospital circulates anywhere from 250 to 400 times per day through the HVAC system. The air passes through the germicidal ultraviolet air purification produced by the Air Probe Sanitizer. The Air Probe Sanitizer produces 2500 times more germicidal effect than the amount in the sunlight that reaches the earth's surface, using a carefully selected, optimum portion of the UV-C ultraviolet

spectrum (yes, all "UV-C" light is not the same). After 24 hours, the air you breath will be so clean, you can actually feel and It also generates helpful negative ions and hydroxyls, which naturally occur in the atmosphere, to scrub pollution, odors, and pathogens from the air in your building. The Air Probe is installed safely and out of sight inside your air conditioning and heating system to kill the source of the problem using the high-energy UV-C form of ultraviolet energy. The original Air Probe Sanitizer uses the UV-C form of ultraviolet air purification. as short wave UV. It has very low penetration abilities, so it cannot go through walls or ductwork. It produces no harmful ozone, gases, radioactivity, etc. same time it has been found to be most effective in destroying the DNA of bacteria, mold, mildew andProperly installed, you cannot be exposed to any ultraviolet light rays (which can be harmful to your eyes or skin) from the Air Probe Sanitizer.

products carry the warning "Can cause temporary or permanent loss of vision". be because their UV lamps also emit dangerous UV-B (short wave) ultraviolet radiation (the Air Probe Sanitizer does not). This also represents wasted and useless UV energy. See the lamp comparison chart for more information. But even if someone should look at the Air Probe Sanitizer lamps (not recommended), the UV-C radiation cannot penetrate the cornea of the eye and damage the delicate retina. Regardless, you should not look at UV lamps without wearing some kind of glasses (you might experience delayed eye surface pain). Properly installed in your central air handler, this will not happen. Does the Air Probe Sanitizer produce ozone?If fact, the UV-C wavelength that the Air Probe Sanitizer's lamps produce would destroy ozone, were it somehow present in the air. Sanitizer is classified as non-ozone producing. It purifies and sanitizes the air with UVC light and hydroxyls, with none of the disadvantages of ozone.

The UVC wavelength of the germicidal UVC lamps that are used in the Air Probe Sanitizer (253.7 nanometers) does not produceThe UV wavelength of other brands of UVC germicidal lamps that do produce ozone is shorter, 180 to 220 nanometers. What is the difference between the Air Probe Sanitizer and duct The Air Probe Sanitizer purifies and sanitizes all the air in the building constantly, 365 days perDuct cleaning and/or sanitizing lasts only one day and does not purify the air. dirty air makes dirty ducts; dirty ducts do not make dirty air. Will it eliminate odors?It will eliminate odor from pets, cooking, mold, mildew, chemicals, paint, carpeting, etc...! Is there any maintenance? The probes (UV-C lamps) should be wiped clean onceThe UV Probes should be replaced once every two years (three years at most), since the lamps' UV-C output drops about 12% per year, and the UV-C output after three years is about 67% of a new probe.

For all that it does (sanitizes and purifies the air, reduces dust, destroys odors, sanitizes the ducts and airhandler, helps the a/c run more efficiently - EVERYDAY!) it is very cost effective!Compared with duct cleaning, which really only lasts one day, it would be like cleaning your ducts everyday, plus all of its other benefits. (Remember, dirty air is what makes the ducts dirty toIf it costs $200 to clean your ducts once, it would cost $73,000 to have them cleaned everyday for a year. Is it easy to install?It couldn't be easier. video shows how simple it is. There are several models to fit any unit. internally-mounted E-200 and the externally-mounted FME-200 comes with mounting screws and cover switch (not shown). good air conditioning man (or mechanical contractor, qualified electrician, etc.) should find this the easiest thing he's ever had to do, and one of theFree tech support is available from us, if needed. Units come with wires for internal