Twice in five years I’ve cleaned my outdoor AC condenser, and both times I’ve been amazed by the amount of dirt and  leaves I’ve found. Fortunately, cleaning your outdoor coil is a task that any homeowner can accomplish, and it doesn’t take very long. A good cleaning will help your AC unit to function more efficiently, and potentially make it last longer too. Read on to learn how I removed the fan, outside panels and scrubbed away a lot of dirt and debris from my outdoor AC condenser. Editors note: This post originally ran in August 2009. In a related post about AC maintenance, one reader asked about cleaning an outdoor condenser unit, which prompted us to update this post with more pictures and information. If you find it helpful, give it a +1. Else, leave a comment and we’ll try to make it better. The coil transfers heat from your home to the outside, and this process works best when air can move freely. That’s why outdoor units have those big ‘ol fans. When dirt and leaves block up air passages, it’s that much harder to cycle enough air.

Plus, dirt and even dust can settle on the AC fins making them much less efficient. This in turn raises operational costs and shortens the lifespan of your compressor. This project doesn’t require much in the way of tools. You’ll need a nut driver to remove some metal screws, a hose, and a scrubber. I’ve got a handy brush that allows me to attach the hose and pump water through the bristles. Cleaning my condenser is pretty much the perfect application for it. It’s best to start by turning off the breaker supplying power to the unit, and hopefully your panel is labeled better than mine. Next, remove any nearby obstructions. Most installation manuals will let you know the minimum clearance around and above the unit. If you don’t have access to the manual, try for at least two feet. My unit has louvered sides held together with a lot of metal screws, and I’d estimate I removed about 30 screws all together. Fortunately, they’re all the same. Just keep track of where they all go.

If your unit has a grill instead of louvers, don’t even bother taking the sides off. You can effectively clean everything as is. You’ll see screws around the perimeter, at the corner where the top and sides meet (not the screws circling the fan). After you remove all those screws, the top (and fan) can be lifted off. Be careful because the fan is tethered with electrical wires. If the installers had any sense, they left a generous length of wire and you can lean the top nearby. This picture shows the electrical compartment. And here you see the compressor. The side grills have more screws at all the corners and along the bottom edge. After you remove these screws you’ll see how the sides overlap and can be lifted up and off. It’s a good idea to remember where each panel was located. They should be identical, but this’ll help ensure that screw hole line up when you put it back together. Use your hose and brush to clean the grills, and hose down the fins (do not scrub the fins!).

The fins maximize surface area for the heat exchange so if you accidentally mash them together, they won’t work nearly as well. Even an invisible layer of dust decreases efficiency so run your hose over everything (except the electric).york ac unit filter I think this was the beginnings of a nest.heat pump ac window units You can see the fins and a few places where the fins are bent- probably from when the previous owner had the compressor replaced.automobile ac unit This shows some of the gunk I found on the fins. And here’s everything bright and clean.When was the last time you cleaned your outdoor unit?The Web address you entered is not a functioning page on our site. Go to Amazon.in's Home Page Selecting an option will narrow your search and make the results more specific.

0 to 1 Ton 1.5 to 2 Ton 3.0 to 5 Ton 5.0 Ton and more Less than 35 db 35 db - 45 db 45 db - 55 db 55 db and above 2 Star or less Clicking this will sort the products in order of latest products to oldest products and vice versa. Clicking this will sort the products according to their prices - lowest to highest and highest to lowest. Clicking this will sort the products according to their rating out of 10 - lowest to highest and highest to lowest. Clicking this will sort the products according to their popularity - least popular to most popular and vice versa. Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1.5 TonTotal Power Consumption: 1610 WattsCooling: 5000W This product has not been rated. Voltas Deluxe (185V DYe) Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1.5 TonBEE Star Rating: 5 Noise Levels (Indoor): 50 db Voltas Deluxe (125V DYe) Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1 TonBEE Star Rating: 5 Noise Levels (Indoor): 48 db

Voltas Executive (243V EY) Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 2 TonBEE Star Rating: 3 Noise Levels (Indoor): 46 db Voltas Executive (183V EY) Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1.5 TonBEE Star Rating: 3 Noise Levels (Indoor): 44 db Voltas Executive (123V EY) Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1 TonBEE Star Rating: 3 Noise Levels (Indoor): 39 db Voltas Magna 183V MY Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1.5 TonBEE Star Rating: 3 Noise Levels (Indoor): 47 db Voltas Magna 123V MY Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1 TonBEE Star Rating: 3 Noise Levels (Indoor): 41 db Type of Split: Wall Mounted Capacity: 1.5 TonBEE Star Rating: 3 Noise Levels (Indoor): 35 db 1-10 of 2798 ACs (Split) ACs (Split) between Rs. 25,000 - Rs. 30,000 Voltas Luxary (1.0T 123 LY (R410A)) Godrej GSC 12 FR 3 WNT Voltas Gold 5S - R (1.5T SAC) Carrier Durakool Star (1.5T)One of the most common downfalls of installed HVAC systems is their inability to distribute the correct amount of air to where it’s needed most.

When systems are restrictive, or blowers aren’t powerful enough, the air simply doesn’t make it to where it needs to go. This issue commonly manifests in the form of comfort complaints.  In addition, most systems suffer from low air flow, only delivering a fraction of what they should. This can also mean that the capacity of a system is much less than what it should be. If it’s only moving 75% of the air, it can only deliver, at best, 75% of the rated capacity. This means that it will run longer in order to satisfy the load, costing more in operating costs. A good HVAC system begins with the selection of a good piece of equipment. The unit selected must have the ability to push the amount of air that your building needs. The blower, and its abilities, is of the utmost importance to the success of an HVAC system, as our ductwork sizing is largely dependent upon the specifications of the blower found within the furnace or fan coil unit. There are two general types of blowers that you’ll see:

The difference between the two becomes obvious when looking at their airflow tables (see below). The OP blower will have a decrease in airflow as static pressure increases. The OR blower, however, will maintain the same (or close to the same) airflow over a range of static pressure. It achieves this by adjusting its rotating speed to “match” the resistance it has to work against. The static pressure shouldn’t actually change that much after your system is installed. (As filters get dirty, their static drop will increase. The amount of increase will vary depending on how much air you’re trying to move through the filter. This is why it’s a good idea to oversize filters.) So, don’t get the wrong idea from my statement above, “as static pressure increases.” Part of the HVAC design process involves the selection of the static pressure at which the design will be based. The idea here is that we select the destination point, or “design static,” and then design our system so we arrive on target.

That said, you’ll notice that there are more static pressure options from which to choose if you’re using an OR blower. It’s also important to understand that an operating-range blower has to consume more energy to rotate faster in order to overcome the additional static pressure. There is a price to pay, so to speak, for achieving your desired airflow at a high static pressure. When using an operating-point (OP) blower, your budget is etched in stone. You have one static pressure option, per blower speed setting, that corresponds to one airflow quantity. When you overspend your OP static budget, your airflow decreases, along with capacity, efficiency, and durability. So, the OP blower ASP selection process is dictated by the quantity of airflow you need, along with the blower speed you choose to design with. This chart shows the blower details for a 1.5-ton fan-coil unit. Notice that there are 5 different speed settings: 1-5. If our goal was to have 600cfm moving through the system, we would have only two operating-point options.

The first option would be to set the blower speed to Med High #4, and design the duct system to create a total external static pressure (TESP) of approximately 0.65 IWC. This would allow our blower to move the 600 cfm we need (interpolate between the 0.60 and 0.70 columns). The other option would be to set the blower on the High #5 speed setting, while creating a TESP that is off this chart – probably somewhere in the 1+ range. Since the data isn’t listed, this would be a risky route to take. So, we’d be left with only one option. Our available static would be 0.65 IWC. When using an operating-range blower, the ASP selection process is a little different. You actually get to select it from the range of static pressures listed on the blower’s airflow chart. You’ll see that there’s a limit to the OR blower’s ability to fight against high static pressure. At some point, typically around 0.75 IWC (inches of water column), the airflow will begin to drop off, which may be below your desired airflow.

Manual-D recommends that you stay away from the “top-third” of a blower’s ASP range listed by the manufacturer. My real world recommendation is to choose the lowest ASP that you possibly can, typically between 0.50-0.75 IWC. After you lay out the ducts, fittings, and components, you can adjust your ASP until your FR is within the acceptable range. Sometimes, you’ll find that you may need to use a larger piece of machinery in order to find a blower that is strong enough for your needs. I frequently run into this when trying to use small furnaces (40kbtu) that have large cooling loads (2.5 tons, for instance). It is difficult to find a 40kbtu furnace that can move 1000 cfm at a reasonably high static. This chart shows the blower details for a 120,000btu furnace. This unit has a variable speed motor that operates in an operating-range configuration. For each combination of ON/OFF switching displayed, the blower will deliver a different amount of airflow based on the TESP listed at the top of the chart.

If we had a 3-ton air conditioner attached to this system, we would want to deliver about 1200cfm of air through the system. We would select the ON, OFF, OFF option, combined with the SW4-3 option shown in the footnote. This would enable us to deliver an airflow quantity just shy of 1200cfm. When choosing the ASP for our Friction Rate calculation, we’d be able to choose any of the static pressures shown, as long as the associated airflow would meet your system’s needs, since the blower will adjust its speed accordingly. The thing you must keep in mind is that high static = high energy use, because the blower is working harder. This may also decrease the blower’s life expectancy. My suggestion is that you start off with 0.50 IWC, adjusting upward as needed until your Friction Rate is within the appropriate range. Many manufacturers will offer a couple different models of the same capacity (when dealing with furnaces), each of which have progressively stronger blowers. This allows them to be paired with larger-sized air conditioners, which require larger airflows.