Quality ProsGuaranteeContact UsWhy is My Air Conditioner Leaking Water?Leaking water from an air conditioner can be confusing. The dehumidifying process of the air conditioner often causes some condensation, but pooling or leaking water is different. There are a few things that can cause such a leak and most of them need to be addressed in order for your unit to run more efficiently. The EPA site can help you determine what might be causing problems for your air conditioner. There are also great suggestions on how to make your home more energy efficient. If you look at your unit and run a few tests, you might be able to find the source of the leak. Sometimes it is necessary to consult a professional to correct the problem, while other times you can fix it yourself. First and foremost, your condenser pump may be broken. You can test this by pouring water in the condenser pan to see if it can properly pump out the excess. If it cannot, first check the power to the pump.

If the power is good, then it is likely the motor or the condenser itself. You should consult a professional to determine what the specific source of the problem is.When air conditioning units are improperly installed they can leak water. If the unit is not level or if there is too much pressure, water may begin to pool. When air conditioning units are improperly installed they can leak water. Check to see if the unit is level first. If that is not the source of the problem, look for any closed vents in the house. The added pressure can sometimes cause the valves to leak.Drain Hole is Blocked There is a drain hole for the removed water on your unit. Sometimes this can get blocked with dirt or other debris. Check the tubing to see if this is the case. Clear the blockage if there is one, as it will allow the water to properly exit the condenser pan and you should see the pooling stop. Outside Temperature is Too Cold When the temperature starts to change you can actually end up with extra water build-up due to the outside temperature being too cold.

It causes more water to build around the unit and then you get the pooling, as it doesn’t evaporate as it normally does. If it is just a small amount of water, you may not need to do anything. When it gets hot again the pooling will stop. If your seals on the air conditioner are not tight, excess warm air can get inside the unit. This causes the moisture from the air to condense when it meets the cold air inside the air conditioner. The excess moisture then pools below the unit. In this case you need to reseal the outside of the unit and make sure everything is properly closed. Pooling water is not the worst thing that can happen to an AC unit, but you do want to take care of it. If water is pooling, your air conditioner is not running as efficiently as it could. This means you are spending more money and your home is likely not the temperature you want it to be. If you don’t want to figure out why it is pooling, call a professional, it is often an easy fix.Popular Expert AnswersMY WINDOW AIR CONDITIONER IS LEAKING WATER ONTO MY CARPETWhy the air conditioner in my window is leaking water?where does the water go if my home air conditioner is leaking it?

Mod #82: Air Conditioner Hard Start Capacitor Mod Rating: (592 ratings) Ever try to start your A/C on a hot day at high altitude with a generator that is supposedly rated to handle the A/C’s starting requirements? The generator struggles, goes in to overload, or just plain stalls because it cannot supply the current demands of the A/C’s motor fast enough. ac heat pump units costStories abound that many are able to start their RV air conditioners using a Honda EU2000 or Yamaha 2400i, or other small wattage generator. small floor ac unitHow are they able to do this while others can’t? how much does an air handling unit costChances are they have modded their RV’s air conditioner with a hard start capacitor. A typical RV air conditioner will have both a compressor motor starting capacitor and blower motor run capacitor, since they are generally of the Capacitor Start Induction Run (CSIR) type.

The other less common type is the Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC) arrangement, which is not usually used in an RV application. Even if your A/C has a starting capacitor, you can still benefit from this mod. Most stock starting capacitors are a bit undersized and replacing it with a larger boost capacitor can help, especially if you are trying to start your A/C using a small generator. For those whose A/C has no starting capacitor from the factory, this mod will really help with compressor motor startup current demands. The recommended (and most popular) starting capacitor for a 13,500-15,000 BTU RV A/C is the Supco SPP6E boost capacitor. This capacitor has an electronic disconnect and provides about twice the current boosting power as the factory start capacitor. If your A/C doesn’t have a seperate boost capacitor as shown in the pictures above, it’s likely that the run capacitor doubles as the boost capacitor, and also has a Positive Temperature Coefficient Relay (PTCR), a fancy term for the way the capacitor is removed from the circuit once the motor starts.

The PTCR is prone to failure which can cause the capacitor to fail, and thus make the compresor motor startup current demands very high or not able start at all. This is the reason Supco makes an electronic version of the PTCR. It is much more reliable and is integrated in to the capacitor packaging. So now that you know more than you ever wanted to know about starting capacitors, how do you mod your RV with one? It’s actually pretty easy. The hardest part is getting on the roof of your RV. To install the capacitor, you must remove the shroud covering the A/C internals. But first, be sure to disconnect any electrical power from the RV. You will be working with AC wiring which, if energized, can kill you. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician to either assist or do the job for you. Don’t try this mod if you are unsure! Start by removing the A/C cover. These are typically secured with many screws so use a battery-powered screw gun unless you prefer a hand workout. Locate the utility box containing the motor and/or starting capacitor.

On a Dometic brand A/C, it’s located near the top right corner and should have a wiring diagram on the outside of it. Remove the screws holding the cover on, then remove the cover. There should be two screws (refer to the pictures above). After the cover is removed, you should see either one or two cylindrical looking parts with several wires running to them. If there are two, then the one that is usually black and totally round (not oval-shaped which is the blower motor run capacitor) is the factory starting capacitor. it should have two wires coming from it. If this is the case, simply disconnect the wires leading from the starting capacitor and remove it. The Supco capacitor will be a direct replacement. Connect the two wires from the new capacitor to where the old capacitor wiring was connected. If your A/C does not have a starting capacitor, refer to the Supco wiring recommendations that came with your boost capacitor for the various types of capacitor/wiring configurations.

Generally though, the new boost capacitor will be wired in parallel, or “piggy-back”, to the motor run capacitor using the supplied jumper terminals. Again, if in doubt, seek the advice of a professional electrican or HVAC technician. You thought there was more to this mod? It’s really that simple to do. Not only will your A/C start up easier while on shore power without popping the breaker, you stand a much better chance of starting and running the A/C using a smaller generator. If you have questions, feel free to comment below and we will do our best to get you an answer quickly! If you are testing out your new boost capacitor, be sure you allow several minutes between startups of your A/C. This ensures that pressures within the A/C system equalize and the compressor motor will start much easier. If it’s particulary hot out, the A/C system will have very high pressure on one side of the system after shutdown. You may have to wait as long as 5 minutes before cycling the A/C.