A wide variety of indoor unit designs and outdoor unit capacities ensures the flexibility to meet the most challenging of air conditioning needs. From aesthetic wall-mounted and floor-standing designs to ceiling-recessed cassettes, abundant options are available to match virtually any interior design. Many systems are equipped with the "l-see sensor", an original Mitsubishi Electric technology that realizes better air conditioning control. This is combined with other industry-leading energy-saving and silencing technologies to produce air conditioners that provide optimum performance and room comfort wherever they are installed. The Mr. Slim Series of small- to medium-sized split-type room air conditioners offers the convenience of being compact yet powerful; a combination ensuring excellent performance and easy installation. Available in a variety of capacity and design combinations, the Series is ideal for creating a "best match" system for your air conditioning requirements. Inverter-based units promise industry-leading quiet operation and a high coefficient of performance (COP).

Mitsubishi Electric's VRF air conditioning systems offer the luxury of distributed airflow and the independent control of indoor units. Installation flexibility and a wide selection of indoor unit designs and outdoor unit capacities ensure "best match" solutions for air conditioning needs, even for the most diversified requirements. Consideration for the environment during development has led to the manufacture of powerful, compact units that consume minimal energy, have a high coefficient of performance (COP) and contribute to maximum room comfort.how much does 3 ton ac unit cost The unique Lossnay heat-exchange technologies developed by Mitsubishi Electric help refresh a room's air while leaving temperature and humidity largely unchanged. how much is a starter for an ac unitThe Lossnay core is comprised of a diaphragm constructed of specially processed paper configured into a cross-flow, plate-fin structure. ac unit tie downs

The advanced heat-transfer and moisture permeability properties of the paper help maximize the recovery of heat as air is circulated through the element. The result is substantial energy savings and a more comfortable indoor environment. Lossnay ventilators can be used alone or in combination with other air conditioning/ventilation systems. To meet the needs of open-front stores and shops in shopping malls, building complexes and street-level businesses, Mitsubishi Electric developed a line-up of high-performance air curtains. These systems create a wall of air that protects the interior space from climatic temperature swings, polluted air, etc. Both quiet and powerful, our systems are an energy-efficient solution for providing enjoyable indoor environments that are clean and comfortable. Mitsubishi Electric manufactures a line-up of powerful rotary compressors designed to suit a variety of applications and operate smoothly even in harsh environments. Our advanced scroll compressors utilize a "Frame Compliance Mechanism (FCM)," a state-of-the-art technology that maximizes energy usage and reduces friction, thereby ensuring less vibration, higher durability and low-noise operation.

Offering superlative performance and long service life, these compressors are suitable for a wide range of uses including air conditioning and heating systems. For more information, go to Air Conditioning Systems WebsiteKeep your air-conditioner (AC) maintained and you’ll not only save money on energy, but you’ll also extend its lifespan, saving money on costly early replacement. Dave Moody, HVAC pro from Service Experts, says, “An AC needs regular attention to be sure it’s operating at the highest efficiency.” The best time to use these tips is just before each cooling season begins. Your Heating, Ventilating, and Air-Conditioning system (HVAC) will consist of either a furnace and AC or a heat pump, which both heats and cools. Both types will have an interior unit (evaporator and blower) and an exterior unit (condenser coil and compressor). These instructions apply to a whole-home air-conditioning or heat pump unit. Due to the dangers of working around electricity and the air-conditioner’s moving parts, it’s essential to completely turn off power to the unit.

On the exterior condenser/compressor, look for an exterior shut-off box near the unit. Indoors, also turn the power off at the breaker box. On the exterior condenser/compressor, remove the fan cage. Using a screwdriver or wrench, remove the fasteners and lift the cage or fan grill away from the top of the unit. By hand, or with a wet/dry vacuum, clean leaves and other debris from the interior. With a strong stream from a garden hose, spray through the fins from the inside out to blast any built up dirt or debris from between them. Never use a pressure washer, since the pressure can damage the fins. If the fins are particularly dirty, use a commercially available fin cleaning spray (available at home improvement centers; read and follow manufacturer directions). Since any reduction in air-flow through the fins can reduce efficiency, carefully straighten bent fins using a butter knife or commercially available fin-straightening tool. Be gentle so that the tubing embedded within the fins is not damaged.

Once finished with the cleaning, replace the fan cage. Rake back leaves and debris outside the condenser and cut back branches and vegetation at least 2 feet in all directions to ensure proper airflow around the unit. During winter months when the condenser is not in use, it’s good to cover the top of the unit with a piece of plywood or plastic to keep debris from falling in. However, don’t completely cover the unit’s sides, since moisture can build up inside and cause corrosion. Also, a completely covered unit encourages vermin to build nests inside. Remove any cover when the unit is operating. Over time, the pad upon which the condenser unit sits can begin to tip as the soil settles beneath it. An out-of-level condenser unit can cause the compressor within to fail early. Check the condenser for level and use rot-resistant shims to bring it back to level. Service Experts’ Moody adds this exception: “If you have a heat pump system, it’s okay for the pad to be slightly sloped away from the home’s foundation to allow for defrost run-off during the winter.”

Now it’s time to move inside. On the inside blower/furnace unit, find the evaporator coil door. You may need to remove some foil duct tape and take out a few screws or bolts. Inside, use a soft brush to dust off the coil, then spray the coil with commercially available no-rinse coil cleaner (available at home improvement stores). The spray will foam up and then drip into the drain pan. Clean out the drain pan with soap, hot water, and a little bleach. Then, pour a cup of 50% bleach/50% water down the drain. To keep the drain clear longer-term, place a commercially available drain pan tablet in the pan. This will inhibit future algae growth. If the bleach solution drains easily, skip the next step. If not, move on to next step. Replace the evaporator coil door and use foil duct tape to re-seal, if necessary. On the interior, warm, humid air from your home’s interior is blown through the evaporator coil. The cold coil absorbs heat from the air, cooling it, before the air is circulated back into your home.

The humidity in the air condenses on the cool surface of the evaporator coil as liquid water, dripping into a pan below. From the pan, the water flows into a drain tube which is typically routed into a basement floor drain, utility sink, or outdoors. Over time, algae and mold can build up and potentially plug the drain, so if the drain is either not flowing or flowing very slowly, it will need to be unplugged. A plugged drain can either cause damage by flooding onto the floor or, if the system is equipped with a drain float, cause the system to stop cooling in order to avoid flooding. First, find the drain line where it leaves the evaporator coil enclosure. The drain is usually a one-inch PVC pipe (white, grey, or black). Follow it to the end where it drains. Often the line drains outside near the condenser unit, but it can also drain into a utility sink or basement floor drain or, in the case of attic units, down an outside wall. Once located, use a wet/dry vacuum to clear the drain.

It’s best to remove the paper filter from the wet/dry vacuum so as not to ruin the filter. Hold the hose of the wet/dry vacuum to the end of the drain line. You can use duct tape or simply hold a rag around the gap. Turn on the vacuum for 2-3 minutes then turn off. This will clear the drain of any growing biological matter. The filter in your HVAC system should be changed at least twice a year – once just before the heating season begins and once before the cooling season begins. If you live in a particularly dusty area, you may want to change it more often. Always replace the filter with a new filter that has the same airflow rating. Again, Moody cautions, “Be careful with ‘air purifying’ or HEPA filters,” he says, “because they can dramatically reduce airflow in your system. That can cause the indoor coil to freeze because of the reduced airflow.” Locate the filter enclosure on the indoor furnace/AC where the large fresh air return duct enters the unit. You may need a screwdriver to turn the latch to open the door to the filter enclosure.