In the sweltering heat of summer, there's nothing more frustrating than trying to install a portable air conditioner in a casement or crank window. The window kit that comes with most portable air conditioners is designed to be installed with a traditional sliding window, but that doesn't mean you can't enjoy the clean look of a crank window and the cool comfort your new portable air conditioner provides. The easiest way to vent your portable air conditioner with a casing or crank windows is to fabricate an insert to fit into the window. This way you can keep the cool air in and keep the hot summer air out.Things to Keep in Mind:Be sure to plan out the details for cutting or drilling before you get to the hardware store. Many portable air conditioner manufacturer's recommend that the air conditioning unit be placed as close as possible to the installation site, so that the venting hose doesn't need to be extended. This is especially important to think about before you drill a hole in the Plexiglas or Styrofoam.

An inch one way or the other may impact whether or not the hose can reach the hole that's been drilled. Now that you've brought your new insert home, it's time to install it in your window. To do this, open your crank window and hold it in place with a latch. By attaching the latch to the widow and window frame, you're helping prevent possible damage to the open window. Make sure the widow is reasonably secure and won't get damaged if there is a breeze or light wind. Next, you need to secure the insert to the window frame. There are several ways to do this. One idea is to use twist clamps to secure the insert. If you know you're going to use Plexiglas, another idea is to use retainer clips (like on the back of a picture frame) to hold the Styrofoam or Plexiglas in place. Since your insert is the only thing that divides your home from the outdoors, it's important to seal it and make sure that it's reasonably weatherproof. To do this you can caulk where the window frame and casing meets.

Another option is to use self-adhesive weather stripping. You should be able to find these tools at your local hardware store or at larger home improvement stores. If you're going to use self-adhesive weather stripping, you may want to attach it to the insert before you secure the insert to the window frame. One thing you'll want to keep in mind is that the weather stripping should fit tightly between the window frame and the insert so that it forms an effective seal. The weather stripping should have enough pressure on it so that it compresses and is about half of its normal thickness where the window frame and insert meet. Making sure the weather stripping fits snugly is key to weatherproofing your insert. Another weatherproofing option is to simply run the weatherproof stripping along the area where the window frame and insert meet. To make extra sure the window is as weatherproof as possible, you can fit the weather proof stripping between the wall and insert and also run it over the area where they meet.

If you use this method, you can help ensure that your insert is as weather proof as you can possibly make it. Now that you've fabricated your insert, installed it and made sure it's weatherproof, it's time to set up your portable air conditioner. The last step is attaching the hose to your insert.  window ac unit horizontal windowCongratulations, now you can relax and enjoy your portable air conditioner. home ac units 5 tonBe sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for operating your new portable air conditioner, and look forward to a comfortably cool summer!ac unit cooling fanMost in-window air conditioners are meant to fit inside vertically-sliding windows only, meaning those with larger, horizontally-sliding windows in their house are left out.

DIY web site Instructables shows us how to easily mount a standard A/C unit in a horizontally-sliding window. While it isn't the prettiest solution, desperate times call for desperate measures, and if this summer heat has you at the end of your rope, you can install that air conditioner just by building a frame for it. All you need is a few 2x4s, some plywood scrap, and a few standard tools.The guide will work for windows of all sizes; you just need to make sure you measure your space correctly so that your air conditioner fits. And, if you plan on making this set-up a bit more permanent, you could always use a large piece of Plexiglas instead of the plywood, to make it look a little nicer. Hit the link for detailed instructions, and let us know your makeshift air conditioning tips in the comments. Mounting a Standard Air Conditioner in a Sliding Window (From the Inside, Without a Bracket) [Instructables] If you are among those people who find that a window-mounted air conditioner fills your cooling needs, you should consider installing a through-the-wall air conditioner.

These appliances provide the same amount of cooling as a window-mounted appliance without taking up valuable window space, and they are not difficult to install.Don't install a window-mounted air conditioner through the wall, though. There will not be enough airflow around the appliance, and you could have problems with condensation leaking from it into the wall cavity.A through-the-wall air conditioner has a sleeve that supports it and ensures sufficient airflow. The sleeve also directs condensation outside.Install the air conditioner on a wall that allows the cooled air to flow freely into the house. It's best to install the air conditioner on a wall that already has electrical service. However, major rewiring may be needed if the circuit is already crowded or if your appliance requires 220 volts.Unless you are going to plug the air conditioner into a nearby wall outlet, hire an electrician to do the wiring. This is especially important when the air conditioner needs 220 volts, or when the service panel is old and crowded.* Start with drawing the outline of the air conditioner opening on the wall using a level.* Locate a stud on each side of the opening, and draw a plumb line in the center of it, to the floor.* Remove the drywall by cutting along the lines with a utility knife.* You will need to build a rough frame to support

It consists of two vertical studs, a horizontal piece at the bottom of the frame called the sill, a horizontal piece at the top of the frame called the header, and short pieces of studs above and below the opening called cripples.The rough frame is slightly larger than the sleeve that supports the air conditioner by about an inch in width and height. This space allows for shims to be slid between the sleeve and the frame.* Slide the sleeve into the opening and shim it so it tips forward about an inch from level to drain condensation. On the inside, the sleeve projects about 3/4-inch beyond the frame (check your installation manual for specific clearances). This positions the sleeve's edge 3/8-inch beyond the drywall.* Cut a piece of aluminum flashing slightly longer than the width of the sleeve. Bend it at its center, along its length, so it forms a right angle. Use this piece as flashing at the top of the sleeve. Slide one side of the flashing under the siding to seal the joint where it meets the sleeve.* Once the sleeve is fastened to the frame, move to the outside of the house.