What kinds of AC units does Carrier make?Carrier offers three different air conditioner product lines: the Infinity, Performance and Comfort Series. The Carrier Infinity Series contains the high-end models, which are more efficient and more expensive than the other two lines. These models have seasonal energy efficiency ratings, or SEER, that range between 16 and 21, while also providing the highest level of comfort of all Carrier air conditioners. These models are also the quietest units Carrier produces, averaging between 56 and 67 decibels. The Carrier Performance Series is the company's middle of the line product range, containing five models that range in efficiency from 13 up to 17 SEER. The Comfort Series contains three models that range in efficiency from 13.2 to 16.5 SEER, which still places them above the minimum allowable efficiency rating stipulated by the U.S. Department of Energy. Many of the Carrier air conditioners are federal Energy Star rated, including the Infinity 21, which was named as a Best Buy by Consumer Digest.

This model comes with a 10-year limited parts warranty and features Carrier's trademark non-ozone depleting Puron refrigerant. The Infinity 21 uses a two-stage compression system, which increases energy efficiency by allowing the unit to run in low-stage for the majority of the time. What are some of the highly-rated air conditioner brands? Some highly-rated air conditioner brands include several window models by GE and Friedrich, and central air options by Maytag, Lennox, Carrier, Trane and A... What are the features of a Puron air conditioner? The standard features of a Puron air conditioner include multistage compressors that allow for efficient functioning at low energy levels, quiet operationa... What is a gable attic fan? How do you properly wire a humidifier to a furnace? Where can I buy an R410A air conditioner? What is the difference between a direct vent oil boiler and a conventional boiler? What are signs I need a new oil tank? How do you clean an oil tank whistle?

So, you've got a heating and cooling system in your home. There's a metal box outside that makes noise, and you control it with the thermostat on the wall. Can you tell me right now whether it's a heat pump or just an air conditioner? This is a really important question to be able to answer when you're talking to an engineer or contractor at a cocktail party. The diference between the two is simple. An air conditioner moves heat from inside your home to outside in the summer. A heat pump does that and also moves heat from outside to inside in winter. Really, what we call an air conditioner is just as much a heat pump as the device that owns the heat pump name. It's just that the air conditioner pumps heat in only one direction. (Regrigerators and dehumidifiers do the same thing pretty much.) Now, back to my question, do you or don't you know what you have? If you don't, here's your opportunity to do a little snooping and find out. Here are three ways: Go outside and find the model number of the metal noisemaker (aka the condensing unit).

Type that number into the search box in your browser and see what the all-wise Internets tell you about it. best ac units for homesYou might need to type in the brand name, too. how to size an ac unit to a houseThat search should get you the answer.how to replace a home ac unit Go outside and peer down through the grill on top of the condensing unit. If you see a horizontal brass pipe similar to the one shown in the photo at right, you've got a heat pump. That piece is called the reversing valve, and it's what allows a heat pump to pump heat in both directions. Note: If you look down in there and don't see one, that doesn't mean it's not a heat pump. Sometimes they're hidden behind the access panel outside the coil, as was the case for the one in the photo.

Go inside and set your thermostat to heat. Adjust the temperature setting until the heat comes on in your home. Now go outside and see if the condensing unit is making noise and blowing air. If it is, you have a heat pump. (Note: This doesn't always work, but something else about the thermostat tells you the answer, too. See first comment below.) Now that you know what you have, you'll never be embarrassed at cocktail parties again! When that contractor starts telling you about TXVs, subcooling, and superheat, or the engineer starts talking about mean radiant temperature, comfort, naked people, and building science (you have to watch out for those engineers!), you'll be ready. I suggest carrying a photo of your reversing valve with you at all times. I keep it right next to my card with 101 digits of pi and the photo of my pride and joy. Finding Balance - Heat Pump Heating Load vs. Capacity Use of Type UF Cable for AC Unit Is Type UF cable permitted to be used as the supply from an AC disco to the unit without any support when installed outdoors?

I can't seem to find any sop where this is OK, please let me know. Re: Use of Type UF Cable for AC Unit Most of the time when we are installing these units we use " liquid tight " for the application and install conductors rated for wet locations. Now I will have to admit many electricians just sleeve 10-2 NM inside the pipe which I am sure could raise a entirly new debate..... However, because of the risk of damage we install " liquidtite" and pull UF cable within it......Sure some will say you should pull individual conductors of like THWN and so on.....which is probably the best.....but in the real world I do not believe we have been turned down for a short 2-3' UF sleeved within Liquidtight.....I like it better than people sleeving NM Cable within it because NM is not rated for the wet location existant in conduit. Ok...can you run UF to the AC unit from the disconnect.....hmmm.....Is it subject to physical damage?....Probably....another note is UF should be sized based on 60 degree ratings as listed in table 310.16

If you sleeve it...support it 12" from the enclosure. NFPA 70 (NEC) Code Making Panel 5 and 17 Committee Member NEC Code Questions - Visit http://masterthenec.boards.net/ �Promise me you'll always remember: You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think.� -RIP Dad, Love You!. Disclaimer - All my posts on this forum are of my own personal opinion and represent Electrical Code Academy, Inc.Sad thing is "Liquid Tight " is not protection from Physical Damage either really........but AHJ's have never really had a issue with it. Either way....of the choices.....I would write up the UF as being exposed to damage...... I am guessing that means it was a bootleg job. Is this common around your area? May be right or could have more serious problems of an HVAC nature, like a bad charge. Bootlegged connections and runs abound here out the wahzoo. I routinely find a handyman has installed wiring to an AC unit. They have been known to run NM, UF outside (literally coming out of the soffit down to the unit, no NM clamps) I found one not long ago the fella had run the NM from inside the Air handler closet down through the line set chase out to the outdoor unit.

It was bright yellow too for all the world to see. Another time I found someone had used green garden hose for a "sorta" liquidtight FMC to run cable (again NM) out to their shed. Its like anything goes here if you can get away with it. The best case might be an HVAC guy moonlighting who just didn't have any sealtite on the truck Worst case would be a stolen unit installed by a handyman working out of his trunk. I would also be looking at shortcuts they took in the ductwork and other issues "How to install outdoor wiring" This article states that the NEC requires #12 for all residential wiring.... When did this change ? B.A. King Home Inspections, LLC Serving Charlotte NC area and Rock Hill SC areas. CMI Certified Master Inspector and Independent License NC2449 and SC1597 "Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what no one else has thought." - Albert Szent-Gyvrgyi, Nobel Prize for Medicine 1937 Are you refering to that comment line in the article you posted which I have re-posted below:

"The National Electrical Code now requires No. 12 gauge wire for all residential electrical wiring."We are buying # 14 AWG everyday...and just for the record I am NOT one of those who believe every plug in the house should be 12 AWG...sure it has more capacity....but if you KNOW what you are doing and size it correctly...14 AWG is fine... I am not aware of any stoppage of # 14 AWG....atleast not in the CODE book I use...thehehehe But I can say that 90% of Electricians (in Massachusetts) installing wiring in new construction today, utilize 12 AWG. could be quite possible, however in VA or atleast in the area's I deal with....14 AWG is used with no problems and has been in use since 1928 when NM Cable was introduced. I do not have a problem wiring 14 AWG for bedrooms and general lighting...and guess what...I have done 1,000's of homes....no reports of random tripping yet.....tehehehhe If the client requests 12 AWG we most certainly will run it, they have to also be aware of the additional charge for wire and labor associated with running more 12 AWG wire.