Unit Is On But No Air Blowing Common Air Conditioner Parts To Fix "Unit Is On But No Air Blowing" Customers rate this repair as Really Easy Takes 15 - 30 mins Takes 15 - 30 minsI need help troubleshooting Rheem RAHE-036JAS, Armstrong G1N80AU125D20C-1, Honeywell ST9160B 1068 Board, Honeywell SV9520H 8034 Gas Valve. About a week ago, AC and Heat were working fine. After power failure (could be coincidence), AC problem, Heat working fine. Symptom: No Inside blower. Outside AC Fan and compressor appear to be working fine. Inside blower will not run. Refrigeration line from AC to house will eventually begin to frost so I believe everything outside is OK. Thermostat: Originally had "Mechanical" AC/Heat thermostat (Lux T101143/PSM40). With Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch set to Heat, and Fan AUTO/On switch set to AUTO, Heat runs normally: Inside Blower/Fan is off, gas valve turns on, furnace ignites. After some delay, Blower starts and runs normally.

Then, set Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch to off. Gas valve turns off, Blower continues to run for a while, then Blower shuts off. With Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch set to Off, and Fan AUTO/On switch set to On, Blower runs normally (continuous). With Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch set to Cool, and Fan AUTO/On switch set to AUTO, outside AC fan and compressor start and run normally, inside Blower never starts. While outside AC fan and compressor are running, turning Fan AUTO/On switch to On has no effect (inside Blower remains off). Discovered that Thermostat Fan AUTO/On switch seemed "loose". With covers removed from Thermostat and baseplate exposed, fan switch operation was intermittent. I didn't suspect the Thermostat was responsible for the AC No-Blower issue but since the Fan AUTO/On switch was intermittent, I replaced the Thermostat with a new digital thermostat (Honeywell RTH2300 B). With new Thermostat, no changes observed... Heat still working, and Fan/Blower (alone) still working, and No-Blower with AC On.

AC outside fan and compressor still appear to be working fine. At this point, I have completely disconnected the ST9160B 1068 Board, and have marked and removed all wires, and have inspected it for any obvious issues but it appears to be fine. My thought is to thoroughly test the ST9160B 1068 Board. For example: reattach power, jumper Y to R and check for operation of on board relay, etc ... To do this there may be various sensors/interlocks that need to be checked/bypassed, so I'm looking for a procedure that will allow all this to be checked. If you feel I am looking in the wrong place, please let me know. Here are some pictures of the wiring diagram/schematics from inside the furnace door: And here is a picture of the Honeywell ST9160B 1068 Board: I reinstalled the ST9160B (Fan control) board and reattached all the wires except the R - C - W - Y - G wires which I left disconnected. I verified the blower/fan wiring and it was as Tester101 said:

A Black wire was on the COOL terminal. The Black wire runs the blower on HIGH speed. A Blue wire was on the HEAT terminal. The Blue wire runs the blower on MEDIUM speed. A Red wire was on the M1 terminal. replace a central air conditioning unitThe Red wire runs the blower on LOW speed (lowest speed).ac repair parts fort worth A Yellow wire was on the M2 terminal but this wire was capped at the other end (non-functional). wall ac heating unitsThe wire is used for fan motors that have a MEDIUM-HIGH speed... mine does not. The M1 and M2 terminals are not connected to anything on the circuit board. They only serve as a place to "Park" the blower motor wires that are not used. First I placed a jumper from G to R and depressed the interlock switch to allow power to the system.

After a very short delay (about one-half to one second), the inside blower/fan started up. I checked the voltage on the HEAT terminal and found 120 VAC. Next I placed a jumper from Y to R (now Y&G are jumped to R). At this point, the blower, which was running from the HEAT terminal (at MEDIUM speed), turned off. I checked the voltage on the COOL terminal and found 0 VAC. To verify that the motor motor HIGH speed was functioning, I disconnected the Black and Blue wires, and connected the Black wire to the HEAT terminal, and placed a jumper from G to R. After a very short delay, the inside blower/fan started up. From the sound, I could tell that it was running noticeably faster. From all of this, it seems the ST9160B Fan control board is failing in the COOL mode.Written Of course, it would be the hottest day of the year that your air conditioner stops working! Getting it serviced can be expensive, and you'll just have to swelter while waiting for a service technician. Check out these steps that can possibly save some money, and help you keep your cool at the same time!

Well, there are many reasons behind it but some normals i whould like to share with you.Is the unit simply not working at all, is it not cooling the air much, or is it simply blowing around warm air?It's not working at all: the condenser (for an outdoor unit) or air handler/furnace (indoor unit) are not running.Make sure it's plugged in. This may seem obvious, but there are occasions when this is exactly the problem. Whether kids, dogs, or an accidental tap with the vacuum cleaner, the plug could be partially or completely dislodged.Check the circuit breakers and fuses. Make sure they are in place, turned on, and functioning properly. Circuits, especially with older homes, are easily overloaded if the air conditioner shares a circuit with appliances such as irons, refrigerators, or microwaves.Check your thermostat (cooling control) and make sure it is set to cool at the current temperature, and working properly. As with plugs, sometimes settings can change by accident.Check your fan blower belt for excessive slack, damage, or breakage.

This can cause low air flow which allows ice to form, and thus causes low cooling performance.Repair or replace the blower belt. Allow the ice to melt before restarting the AC unit.Possibilities:Is air coming out of the supply vents, but it’s just not cold?If no air is coming out of your supply vents at all, skip to the second question. If you answered “yes” to this question, follow these steps:1) Check the thermostat fan setting— Does your air conditioner run cold air sometimes but hot air other times? Make sure the fan setting is set to “auto” not “on”, which will cause your AC to blow air even if it’s not being cooled.2) Check your air filter— If the air coming out of the supply vents is weak and not very cool, check to see if the air filter is dirty and change it if necessary. A dirty air filter blocks airflow to the air handler.  Here’s our guide on selecting the right home air filter.3) Check the the outside AC unit—Is the outside unit covered in dirt, dust or grass?

Is it being smother by a tree branch or bush? Trim them back to give the outside unit breathing room. Is the outside fan not working? A professional needs to fix it. Otherwise the outside unit can’t cool down refrigerant to cool your home’s air.If none of these helped, your AC may be low on refrigerant. However, this is caused by arefrigerant leak, which you’ll need a professional’s help to find and fix.thank you.Written Air conditioning at a basic level uses electricity to power components to create heat transfer.  You want to transfer heat from inside your house to a coil (thus cooling the house), then transfer that heat (via refrigerant) to outside your house via a coil that rejects the heat to the outdoor air.  The need to understand that electricity powers components, and heat transfer creates the effect of cooling can not be understated.  Without electricity powering your components properly and heat transfer (via coils and fans) you have no work being done.So we start by checking for power at the indoor and out door units, as well as the thermostat. 

If all 3 have power (the breakers are on, the fans are turning) then we know we have the high voltages and low voltage present everywhere, (breakers can trips, fuses can blow, and transformers can smoke which all lead to a power loss somewhere).  Now that power has been established via fans/noise indoors, outdoors and a thermostat that is working, we need to check heat transfer!  Heat transfer can be interupted in many ways.  The simplest ways are to imagine what can mess with a fan blowing air across a coil and mess it up?The fan not turning!The filter being stopped up.The coil being SUPER dirty because the filter is missing( or it is an outdoor unit full of grass/mud)!Most of the problems in the HVAC field are simple issues like these or electrical issues.  It will be uncommon to have to use gauges on a high pressure system unless you are changing out a compressor or unit. Learning some basic electricity and trouble shooting can help you out in a myriad of fields, even plumbing!! 

(laws governing flow are consistent whether the potential is measured as voltage or pressure, and whether restrictions are measured in ohms or not. Written The first step would be to determine if your blower motor still operates.  This is easily known by putting your hand up to any supply vent (vents that push out air into your home).  If this is the case, then it's a good bet that the levels of Freon (also known as coolant, refrigerant, etc.) in your your air conditioner are not where they should be.Occasionally, you could have an air conditioner that has too much Freon, which is causing your system to freeze up, but more than likely you do not have enough Freon circulating through your system, which is causing your air conditioner not to produce cold conditioned air to your home.  It is a common misconception that every so often, one must add a little more coolant to your system, not unlike topping of the oil in your car.  But this notion is false.  The coolant in your air conditioner system actually operates in a closed loop, meaning there is never a need to add more coolant...

Unless there is a leak.Leaks are caused by holes, sometimes as small as a pinhole located anywhere where the refrigerant circulates.  The size of the hole determines how long it takes for the Freon (which is actually a gas) to slowly leak out of your system.  If the leak is small, it may take years for the system to lose enough Freon to where your air conditioner is noticeably not producing enough cool air in your home.Large holes will ensure the refrigerant  leaks out much faster.  Sometimes charging up a system, and spending hundreds of dollars to do so, is the wrong approach, as the Freon will only leak out days, sometimes weeks after it has been recharged. It's always important to have a professional HVAC technician determine where the leak is occurring, and how large the leak is, before regarding your system.Written The compressor is not working due to a motor that is either burnt( which would lead to a short circuit ) or there is a leak in the refrigerant system ( more likely).

A good gauge is to check if the air coming out of the condensing coil ( outdoor) is warm ( 40-60°C). If it is, you might have a choked evaporator coil and an overhaul ( Jetclean) would solve that issue.A 24hr high pressure N2 leak test will have to be done if there is a leak in the system. The worse case scenario is when the refrigerant pipes are embedded in the walls or hidden by costly built in cabinets. to be behind that... All the best in your investigation. Written There are many potential reasons.  I assume that the thermostat is adjusted properly and the power to the indoor and outdoor components has been turned on and the circuit breakers (or fuses) are OK.  I also assume that the unit is indeed blowing air, just not cold air.Go outside and see if the condensing unit is running.  If not then you could have major component failure, a control failure or a loss of the refrigerant charge;If the condensing unit is running, (the fan and the compressor) then take a quick look at the refrigerant pipes connected to the unit.