Call Us Now (888) 856-4507 What Causes my Air Conditioner to Freeze Up? Why Air Conditioners Freeze Up There are many reasons why your AC unit may be freezing up. Air conditioners need proper airflow to keep the cold coil warm. Warm air from the home is needed for the coil to stay cold and keep the temperature above freezing. Without it, coils freeze before the condensed water can be drained away from the unit. Since dirty air filters and closed air registers can impede airflow, it’s a good idea check the air filter and make sure the registers are both clear and open. A freeze up can also be caused by low refrigerant and improper fan operation. Low refrigerant levels make the coils too cold, and a faulty fan prevents air from moving. Faulty thermostats and drainage problems are often causes of a freeze up. In the cooling process, an AC unit condenses water vapor into liquid that drains outside. If the coils are frozen, the ice will cause a blockage for the drain hole.

The AC still runs, but doesn’t properly cool the home and uses a lot more electricity. If you have a window AC unit, you can use a hairdryer to unfreeze the coil. It’s also a good idea to check the drainpipe for any blockages, such as debris and twigs. Keep in mind that running an air conditioner with frozen coils can lead to extensive damage of the compressor. This is the most expensive part of an AC unit, and it’s not a repair or replacement that you want to face. If you’re unable to fix the frozen coil problem yourself, it’s always best to call a certified technician. At Custom Air & Plumbing, we fix all types of HVAC problems for businesses and residents, including AC freeze-ups. We know that the summers in Bradenton FL can be quite warm and respond quickly for HVAC repair. As a matter of fact, our customers can call us any time or any day with our 24/7 emergency service. We’re always just a quick phone call away. As soon as you notify us, we will quickly dispatch a service technician.

Your indoor comfort is our top concern. We send our customers top-notch technicians. Our technicians are both factory trained and NATE certified. They also arrive equipped with cutting-edge tools for troubleshooting, diagnosing and repair. In addition to a expert repair, you can expect a 100 percent guarantee on all of our repair work.  Please contact us for more information on HVAC products, service and repair.central air conditioner units installation costYou've just received a call from a new client who has a problem with a production chiller. how much does an ac unit cost to replaceThe best way to help begins before you get to the jobsite. ac unit not on outside1. The first step is to call the customer and ask for details about what happened, and what indicators or codes come up on the diagnostic readouts (if the chiller has any).

If the customer doesn’t know any details, ask him or her to check the following: These are key items you can use as a troubleshooting starting point before you get to the jobsite. Once on the scene, follow this procedural outline: 2. Check to see whether the information you received over the phone is correct. 3. Once you’ve determined the accuracy of this information, examine the obvious. Is the chiller running? If it’s running, then go the step #8. If it isn’t, look for a diagnostic display panel that can tell you a direction to begin checking. Does the chiller have main power and control power from the transformer? Check all the fuses. 4. Note any codes listed on the chiller (most of the newer chiller units have diagnostic codes or alarm codes to view). Look up the reason in the equipment’s troubleshooting manual. Make sure the company can obtain that for you, even if you know the chiller. Today's newer chillers have a computer's worth of information built into memory. 4a. If the chiller isn’t running, find the electrical diagram of its control and high voltage circuits.

This will be very necessary with an older chiller not equipped with built-in diagnostics. The reason a compressor doesn’t engage is usually due to an "open" condition somewhere in the control circuit. You need to find where the open condition resides. Use the electrical diagram to find it. 4b. Start at the power side of the transformer and check wire by wire. On those jobs where you don’t have access to the electrical diagram, or when the chiller is located in a place where you can't read model numbers or see any diagnostic indicator lights or codes, always start at the control transformer and follow the control power wire path. Find the power side, and with a good voltmeter, trace the power wire from safety to safety. Eventually the control power will come to the compressor or pump contactor coil. Another way to do this is to work backwards from the compressor contactor control coil to the control transformer. It’s along these paths that you’ll find the open circuit, if there is one.

5. If you find an open condition, then you must determine why. It could be anything from low pressure to a broken compressor control module. Chillers usually have two unique safeties: One is a water flow switch, which can be hidden in the water piping and not be visible, especially if you have a remote pump tank system. The second safety is a freezestat control. A freezestat is basically a back up thermostat that ensures the supply water temperature doesn’t get too cold. Usually freezestats are set 10F less than the supply water temperature the customer wants to run. 6. Make a visual inspection of the chiller electrical panel, water piping, and pump tank system (if it has one). You may be able to see obvious problems such as burned or broken wires, the water pump not running, water valves shut off, and improper system water temperature. 7. At this point, you should have found which safety tripped. Don’t reset it until you have your gauges on the compressor and oil pump (if applicable).

Strap temperature probes on the suction, discharge, and liquid lines. Place an amp meter on the high voltage leg of the compressor before you start the system. Then watch all the pressures, temperatures and amperages at the same time. This is not an easy task, but necessary, especially within the first five minutes. Skip to item #10. 8. Measure the antifreeze concentration in the system. If the system doesn’t have antifreeze, then inspect the water quality. The best way to measure antifreeze is with a refractometer. Remember, if the system uses ethylene or propylene glycol, the freeze point will be different for the same percentages. The chiller is running. Now install gauges and temperature probes and begin taking readings. At this point you're ahead of the game, but not out of the woods. You need to find out why the system either tripped a safety or isn’t running the way the customer desires. Following are some common problems that you can troubleshoot, based on the readings from your gauges and probes: A. Low pressure trip — Caused by low refrigerant, power assembly broken capillary;

low or no water flow; clogged water filter or screen; antifreeze or mud coating the tubes of the evaporator causing poor efficiency. B. High pressure trip — The water-cooled condenser has poor or no flow; water-cooled condenser has mineral buildup due to poor water quality (very common); air-cooled condenser is blocked with debris or has a fan not working; chilled water tank temperature is very high (over 80 F plus). C. Oil failure trip — Can be caused by either low superheat, low oil (due to a refrigerant leak), or oil pump damage. D. Freezestat — Poor water flow, or the thermostat is set too low. E. Blown fuses or starter trips — Shorted or over-amped motor, compressor or wires. Make sure to check for grounds or shorts before you try again. F. System running but not reaching thermostat setpoint — Evaporator internally iced up, antifreeze breakdown causing poor heat exchange, system load is too great for chiller to handle. G. Proof of flow — either flow or pressure switches in water circuit are suffering from low or no flow, blocked water filter, water valve shut off, water piping too small, flow switch paddle broken (very common).