With the hot weather that has settled into the area recently, chances are you've been running your air conditioner a heck of a lot lately. And if you live in an apartment, or in an older home with radiator heat, chances are you use window air conditioners to cool down.While they bring much in the way of cooling relief, the problem with window air conditioners is that they're not very energy efficient, especially units that are more than a few years old. Add to this the fact that most people install window air conditioners improperly. People often just pop open a window, shove the air conditioner in, pull out the accordion side panels and hit the "high cool" button.Meanwhile, the gaps around the unit allow warm air from the outside to infiltrate a home.There's a better way. Start, if you already haven't, by cleaning the unit. Remove the foam filters located under the inside panel and give those a thorough washing. Continue to do so every few days or so during the rest of the summer.Then, use a vacuum cleaner to clean the metal fins around the unit's exterior.

Use the vacuum's hose attachments to get between the fins.Next, place the unit in the window. If you can use a north window, that will keep the air conditioner out of the sun, which will allow it to work more efficiently.Check to see that the unit slopes slightly out of the window so that it can drain away from the side of the house. You might need to shore up the unit with a short length of 1-by-2 or 2-by-4 if the windowsill is higher or lower than the storm window frame. Use a level if needed.If there is a glass storm window in the window, lower it so that it touches the top of the air conditioner. Then close the window so the unit stays in place.Pull out the side accordion panels as far as they'll go to close any openings. Use wood screws to then attach those panels to the window frames.You can then use polystyrene rigid foam board and/or small pieces of plywood to close up any gaps between the unit and window frame. Cut the foam board into pieces and press those into the side openings.

Then cut the plywood in a similar manner and place those pieces over the foam board.Keep the materials in place with a few wood screws. You can paint or stain the plywood to make it better match the rest of the window frame. If the air conditioner is in a first-floor window, you can do the same on the outside. Then, you can cover the edges of the plywood and foam board with a small bead of caulk. This will also make the air conditioner more secure.With double-hung windows, there will also be a gap at the top between the bottom pane and the top pane. A rolled-up towel will seal that opening and keep both hot air and insects out.When cool weather sets in, remove any window units promptly. Otherwise, they will be a source for cold-air infiltration. If you are among those people who find that a window-mounted air conditioner fills your cooling needs, you should consider installing a through-the-wall air conditioner.These appliances provide the same amount of cooling as a window-mounted appliance without taking up valuable window space, and they are not difficult to install.

Don't install a window-mounted air conditioner through the wall, though. how much does a new ac and heating unit costThere will not be enough airflow around the appliance, and you could have problems with condensation leaking from it into the wall cavity.ac units for windows with barsA through-the-wall air conditioner has a sleeve that supports it and ensures sufficient airflow. how to size central ac unitThe sleeve also directs condensation outside.Install the air conditioner on a wall that allows the cooled air to flow freely into the house. It's best to install the air conditioner on a wall that already has electrical service. However, major rewiring may be needed if the circuit is already crowded or if your appliance requires 220 volts.

Unless you are going to plug the air conditioner into a nearby wall outlet, hire an electrician to do the wiring. This is especially important when the air conditioner needs 220 volts, or when the service panel is old and crowded.* Start with drawing the outline of the air conditioner opening on the wall using a level.* Locate a stud on each side of the opening, and draw a plumb line in the center of it, to the floor.* Remove the drywall by cutting along the lines with a utility knife.* You will need to build a rough frame to support It consists of two vertical studs, a horizontal piece at the bottom of the frame called the sill, a horizontal piece at the top of the frame called the header, and short pieces of studs above and below the opening called cripples.The rough frame is slightly larger than the sleeve that supports the air conditioner by about an inch in width and height. This space allows for shims to be slid between the sleeve and the frame.* Slide the sleeve into the opening and shim it so it tips forward about an inch from level to drain condensation.

On the inside, the sleeve projects about 3/4-inch beyond the frame (check your installation manual for specific clearances). This positions the sleeve's edge 3/8-inch beyond the drywall.* Cut a piece of aluminum flashing slightly longer than the width of the sleeve. Bend it at its center, along its length, so it forms a right angle. Use this piece as flashing at the top of the sleeve. Slide one side of the flashing under the siding to seal the joint where it meets the sleeve.* Once the sleeve is fastened to the frame, move to the outside of the house. Drill through the flashing and into the top of the sleeve and spread a bead of exterior caulk under the flashing. Rivet the flashing to the top of the sleeve with 3/16-inch rivets. Smooth the caulk that squirts from under the flashing and spread another bead of caulk between the flashing and the siding. Caulk the top of each rivet head.* Return to the inside of the house and pack insulation loosely between the sleeve and the frame.* Cut a piece of drywall to fit around the sleeve, and nail it in place.